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help, Clutch suddenly stopped working

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
That thought occurred to me too, but that would not explain why the clutch completely failed after an oil change before OP opened the clutch.
Curious what happens when the new plates are fitted.
 
Rijko said:
That thought occurred to me too, but that would not explain why the clutch completely failed after an oil change before OP opened the clutch.
Curious what happens when the new plates are fitted.
Click to expand...

maybe we aren't getting the full story of events!? :confused:
 
Yep, I thought the same thing, except he took it out for a pretty hard ride & came home with no issues or anything weird. Then changed oil with wrong oil (never said what wrong oil was used) then fired the bike up to pull into the garage & I have zero clutch, wouldn't pull at all. "Only Then" he took the cover off & inspected the plates, could have left a plate out when replacing then, but before the cover was removed they all must have been there....????
 
i have seen a clutch with a steely mounted against the clutch hub, and even that would spin the back wheel. Not good enough to pull away, but the wheel would spin :)
 
Yeah, there is eather something he's not telling us, or he's a internet prankster...
 
now, now, don't judge too fast guys.
I have seen strange things before, which turned out to have a logical mechanical explanation.

Hope OP keeps us updated what happens, who knows what went wrong.
 
What would happen if you put some full synthetic 0W-20 in a GS?
 
Ok guys sorry about the intermittent responses today. Ive been at work. I can promise im not "hiding" anything. Just looking for some insight. I rode it hard. Parked it for about an hour. Did an oil change. Fired it up to put in the garage and absolutely nothing... like i said ive got plates, a new cable, and springs coming. Im hoping that does it. Honestly i have no idea either. It suddenly not working is throwing me off as well.... @ Rphillips. As for the wrong oil i put a non wet clutch type oil in. Stupid mistake.... the clutch wasnt working before i pulled the cover and cleaned the plates. Thats why i pulled the cover. It just up and quit and i dont really know why.
No prankster or hiding anything here fellas. Im just kinda baffled
 
Well, at least you are learning an important lesson. Took me awhile to learn it.

Figure out what is wrong, before throwing money, and/or new parts at a problem.
 
@baatfam, to be fair though. The springs, plates, and cable are all old as dirt. So in someways im throwing money at it to see what sticks. On the other hand, it was really needed regardless. Just didnt expect it to be now lol
 
@agemax all the plates that came out are still in there. Not missing one i can tell you that for sure... now hear me out, just spit balling here... since those fiber plates are old and very hard. Could it be slipping hard enough to not even engage because the are so hard at this point?
If that doesnt seem right tell me lol. I'm just throwing ideas out.
 
And I'm not lying when i say that entire hard ride the bike felt just fine. No issues whatsoever and got ne home just fine. Only after i was home i discovered the issue like i stated.
 
if i was you, as you are waiting for new parts anyway, i would drain the oil out, remove the clutch cover and see first hand what is going on in there. you dont need to start it up, just pull the lever in, pop it in gear and let the lever out, maybe while pushing the bike slowly to see what is or isnt working correctly.
 
If the rear wheel spins when on the center stand (and in gear, clutch lever out), isn't the clutch technically working but slipping extremely?
 
Rob i guess that would be a true. However on the center stand my wheel does not spin.
 
Baatfam said:
What would happen if you put some full synthetic 0W-20 in a GS?
Click to expand...

Nothing.
When it warms up it will be a bit noisier than before, with all the little tingly rattles the thicker oil keeps at bay.
Eventually, the clutch <might> slip.
Fwiw, my clutch was treated variously over the years to Slick 50, Molyslip, Uncle Joe's Pumpkin Pie and Mash Mix and the only time it started slipping was shortly after putting some 5w40 synthetic in it - it slipped under max throttle, but not lower down.. Mind you, it had done well in excess of 80k, that clutch and I never treated it well.
I replaced that clutch last year when I did the top end, and the old plates look absolutely fine. I'd have no problem roughing them up and re-using them if I was stuck for cash or parts.
 
Grimly said:
Nothing.
When it warms up it will be a bit noisier than before, with all the little tingly rattles the thicker oil keeps at bay.
Eventually, the clutch <might> slip.
Fwiw, my clutch was treated variously over the years to Slick 50, Molyslip, Uncle Joe's Pumpkin Pie and Mash Mix and the only time it started slipping was shortly after putting some 5w40 synthetic in it - it slipped under max throttle, but not lower down.. Mind you, it had done well in excess of 80k, that clutch and I never treated it well.
I replaced that clutch last year when I did the top end, and the old plates look absolutely fine. I'd have no problem roughing them up and re-using them if I was stuck for cash or parts.
Click to expand...
OK, thanks! That's what I thought. So not the oil then.
 
Most any bike, on center stand, eng. running, clutch lever pulled & held all the way in, put in gear & rear wheel will turn, just from the friction of the oil between the clutch plates. Synthetic 0w-20? yes very thin & slick but no pulling at all is what is so strange. Years ago I put some "Slick 50" additive in an 1100 & it was still plenty rideable, would slip bad with too much throttle but his won't even pull the bike into the garage.
 
Baatfam said:
OK, thanks! That's what I thought. So not the oil then.
Click to expand...

No, I'm sure of that.
On thinking about the 0w20, I wouldn't use it anyway as it's a bit thin for comfort. I'm thinking about the fluid film on the camshaft bearings. A decent synth will protect them anyway, but the cam bearing clearance is designed for a thicker brew, even at max temperature. Depends on the pump - if it's not worn it might well be capable of shoving enough oil up the gallery to feed them regardless.
I'm fairly sure if it's a decent 0w20, there wouldn't be any deleterious effects on the crank or gearbox bearings, but the only way of finding out...
 
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