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Help! CV needle removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter HAWK44
  • Start date Start date
H

HAWK44

Guest
How do you remove the needle from the slide? There is a C-clip holding the plastic retainer on, but how do you remove the C-clip? Is there a special tool? I'm rejetting my carbs with a dynojet kit and this is the only step that is difficult...
 
so there is no special tool? Just dive in and get the C-clip out? I dont want to damage anything...

Also, what is a good starting point for the mixture screw? 2.5 turns out as the kit says?
 
so there is no special tool? Just dive in and get the C-clip out? I dont want to damage anything...

Also, what is a good starting point for the mixture screw? 2.5 turns out as the kit says?

so your installing a dynojet kit?
if so...
do as the instructions say.
most problems come from people not following instructions or thinking they know more than dynojet does.
 
Get some cheapo needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight. I found a little set that fits prefectly in the holes. If you think they are hard to get out, wait until you try to put them back in.
 
Get comfortable with removing those needles. Ya may have to do it again. Also pay very close attention to holding on to that retainer ring. Its tough to find if it goes flying across the garage.
Dont ask me how I know this..
 
Well I bought a set of snap ring pliers at a local hardware store, and of course they are still too fat to fit into the tiny space inside the slide without pinching the plastic needle retainer and snapping it off. So I filed the heck out of the nose of the pliers in order to have just enough clearance to finally remove the C-clips. Swapped out for the dynojet needles and "attempted" to put them back in. You guys were right, the C-clips are even harder to put back in. But...they are all done now. (by the way, dont forget to hook up your throttle cable BEFORE putting the carb bank back on the bike...ahh first timer mistakes).

Now I just have to see how much tuning I have to do in order to get it running right again. Is a new carb sync absolutely necessary? It would probably be a good idea anyway...
 
The bike started! So far so good. With the exception of dry cranking for a minute, it fired up quick. Small amount of backfire at first but worked itself out. The only problem was a sticky throttle cable...when you wiggle it the bike revs, which is a problem I had in the past. Test drive is next :D!
 
Well I bought a set of snap ring pliers at a local hardware store, and of course they are still too fat to fit into the tiny space inside the slide without pinching the plastic needle retainer and snapping it off. So I filed the heck out of the nose of the pliers in order to have just enough clearance to finally remove the C-clips. Swapped out for the dynojet needles and "attempted" to put them back in. You guys were right, the C-clips are even harder to put back in. But...they are all done now. (by the way, dont forget to hook up your throttle cable BEFORE putting the carb bank back on the bike...ahh first timer mistakes).

Now I just have to see how much tuning I have to do in order to get it running right again. Is a new carb sync absolutely necessary? It would probably be a good idea anyway...

A word of advise....
Replace those chitty carb cover screws with hex or allen head. Ya shouldnt have to remove the carbs to remove the slides.

Glad to hear it fired up!
 
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