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HID / H4 Headlight Conversion?

  • Thread starter Thread starter wavetrain75
  • Start date Start date
I picked up a couple of these. They seem to work just fine. Obviously not the stock housing for the bulb, but i like the look of the projector beam anyway. They have H4s in them stock i believe, which i guess are upgradeable to HID??

DSCF0088.jpg
 
You can fit one of these in the 7" opening.
7" Ebay light $12.95
e0_1_b.JPG


My Triumph came stock with H4 bulb and a 7" light housing. Now that I run a sealed beam in it, the stock Triumph light fit right into my Zuki housing.
 
Which model(s) of the GS series did not come with H4 bulbs? :shock:

I suspect maybe the 250s and 300s, not sure about the 400s and 425s. I think the '81 450T that my son bought several years ago had an H4, but I don't remember.

Both of the '82s here (650L and 850L) have H4s in them. In fact, I changed the light on the 850 to a 7" unit so I could get a better light, and one of those units just might find its way here. Thanks.

Now, about the HID 'upgrade'...hopefully you are considering a true HID conversion, not one of those 'looks like HID' bulbs? :oops:
Most of the true HID conversions are way too expensive for me to consider, especially when you consider what you have to give up, compared to what you gain.
What you gain:
better light with a nice distribution pattern
about a 35 watt draw, instead of 55 watts
a really "cool" look

What you lose:
your high beam (and therefore...)
any possibility of using a headlight modulator
$249 (plus shipping) from this retailer.
$199 (plus shipping) from this retailer.

In spite of the cost, I would consider one of these kit LONG before using any of the 'looks like HID' bulbs. I got a set of them for my van, installed them, drove around at night for about half an hour, went home and took them out. Even though they were 80-watt low beam/100-watt high beam, they were just too blue, and I could see the road and signs MUCH better with the stock 45/65 watt bulbs. I now have a source for 80/100 bulbs that are clear, and will be ordering them as soon as possible.


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Yeah thats pretty spendy. Im not sure exactly how this beam pattern will work out with this projector light i have, as they tend to be focused in a somewhat linear pattern. Hopefully i can make it work out, as it certainly is a bit brighter, and yes i do like the look. If not, itll be back to a normal one, but for 20 bucks for two it was worth a shot.
 
My '79 550 had a sealed beam. Upgraded to an H4 unit from J.C. Whitney...with the bulb subsequently upgraded again to Ostram Silverstar. Nice upgrade.

HID is not worth it, assuming you are purchasing the parts legitimately - HID headlamp theft is rampant so be careful if purchasing used parts.
 
Yeah i recently read an article regarding that. Seems a reason some of the newer model cars that used to have them dont anymore. Frankly, i find them somewhat annoying, especially in the rear view mirror. However, they can be near blinding, and as such perhaps more visible to cagers...
 
Good point Ness.. In case everyone doesn't realize it, "true" HID lighting is an entire system. There is also a ballast, usually remotely located. This is a pic of a two light system:
PG_HID_Kit_50jpg2-239x151.jpg


If you look on fleabay or search the web, you see a lot of sales for H4 bulbs that claim to be HID. It is not just the bulb you need. Xenon & HID are not the same, but some sites propose to sell them as such.
 
Recently the cost of true HID conversion kits has come down a lot. They can be had on ebay for about $70. There are magnetic arc steering bulbs that give a high beam, but they are more expensive. One thing to remember is that your beam pattern might be off if you just replace the H4 bulb with a HID. The position of the arc is a little different than the position of the filament. This is what changes the beam pattern.

One thing to remember is that HID's only use less power when warmed up. The startup takes around 150 watts for a few seconds. Then it drops down to 80 or so. This then drops down to the speced 35 watts after a couple of minutes.

A great place to get no-BS high wattage bulbs is www.rallylights.com or bajadesigns.com. I have no connection with either of them other than a satisfied customer. I have a 90/110 watt H4 in my dirt bike and it does wonders at night.
 
WOw you seem to be really knowledged about the subject :) Thanks for the info. Im sure it will come of good use to people! Welcome to the GSR :)
 
I have a 1978 GS750 with a sealed beam headlight, I was looking for a way to free up some power for driving lights and/or heated grips. HID lights (the real ones) seemed like a simple way to start.

You lose your high beams? How does that work? Or not work, I guess. Theft? That stinks. Maybe you could rig the ballest to run a taser gun when the bike is shut off. Like James Bond's Lotus: Burglar Protected.
 
Be careful with wattage, as in 90/110 low-hi beam.

I toasted the fuse and partially fuse box on my 1000
running a 90/110.

And of course at night in traffic is when it decided to toast.
 
Before you change to HID check with D.O.T or local laws as I have looked into Oregon and it is a $1500 fine, because there is no true change over kit. This is due to the wrong prism cut in a standard H4 housing.
If you run a higher wattage bulb (80 watts or more) upgrade you wires and plug as this will melt the stock plug.

If you want more power out of the charging system have a custom stator wound. Then you can run more stuff.

I have found a headlight modulator is the best to be seen thing I have ever done!

Just my 2 cent's worth.
 
You lose your high beams? How does that work? Or not work, I guess.
You lose your high beams because your standard bulbs have two filaments, slightly displaced. On the H4 bulbs, the low beam filament is closer to the tip of the bulb, and usually has a shield on one side of it to prevent light from hitting part of the reflector and going UP into oncoming traffic's eyes. The high beam filament is closer to the base of the bulb and is allowed to shine into the whole reflector. The different filament locations also affect the beam pattern due to the useage of different focal points.

The HID bulb is an electric arc. There is only one location for it, and, chances are, it's in the wrong place to start with. The standard filament is oriented front-to-back in the bulb, the HID arc is likely going across the bulb, either side-to-side or top-to-bottom. As cleonard mentioned, there are some recent advances in HID bulbs that will magnetically relocate the arc, but those bulbs are even more expensive. I have also seen some recent bulbs that had a regular tungsten filament for high beams. Yes, most of the time with the lights on is on low beam, but, dangit, I want good lights on low and high beams. 8-[

In general, I will run the brightest bulbs I can in my cars. They all take 9004 bulbs, and I am running 80/100 bulbs. Although my Wing has enough alternator capacity to handle brighter bulbs, \\:D/ my modulator is not rated for them. Fortunately, I have the newer style lights which are quite excellent for putting light on the road. On me GS bikes, both of them are running stock H4 bulbs. The 850 will be getting a new 7" light sometime in the near future because the reflector is slightly frosted, which is spreading the light out, instead of sending it out to the road. My wife has said many times that, while riding at night out in the country (where I am likely to have my high beams on), she can see the road better with my lights than with hers, even though she is riding 50 yards or so behind me. :shock: But then, I do also have the advantage of a couple of 55-watt driving lights that come on with the high beams.
PB134220.jpg


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The Sylvania Silverstar is an excellent and widely available standard wattage headlight bulb, and a nearly mandatory GS upgrade.

If you're running a higher wattage bulb, you'll need to upgrade the wiring and connector, preferably with relays. This guy sells VERY nice headlight relay kits:
http://easternbeaver.com/

He claims that a lot of people notice a worthwhile difference by using the relay kit with a good standard wattage headlight bulb, which makes sense to me.

You'll also want to go out right now and look at your GS's headlight connector. I'm using a Silverstar (standard wattage), and I recently found my headlight connector was half melted. I replaced it with a high-temp connector which was about $9 from the local auto parts store (the connections to the bike's wiring were soldered and protected with heat-shrink).
 
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On a slightly different subject, but still associated with headlights. Does anyone know what size headlight is used on a '77 GS550. The headlight in my 550 is an 8" H4. The centre is held in by a lip at the top and two screws at 120 degrees from that. I am thinking that maybe the PO put a different headlight shell on the bike. In the owners handbook it shows three screws holding the headlight insert in the bucket. Should it be a 7" headlight.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Have HID in my VTX 1800. Hi/lo works great. Uses the moving lamp to gain Hi/lo function.
GS850 has Windjammer with a Hela H4 lamp assembly. Amazing with a SilverStar. Can't wait to put the HID in it! Will report back.
Have well under $200 in both of them and they were purchased 14 months ago. Even less now. DEFINITELY will be staying in the VTX.
 
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