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HID kit review GS1100G

jimfj

Forum Mentor
I came across this thread originally http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=160391

The whole idea seemed easy enough and just what I was looking for to give me some more light while riding at night. (I had spent some time researching LeED fog lights ect.)

I ordered the 35 watt kit from DDM tuning in the 5000K color spectrum. I wanted as close to bright white as I could get. I did not want the 55 watt kit because I was worried about too much glare hitting oncoming traffic.

I paid 51.00 shipped for the kit. Mine is the Hi/Lo kit that moves the shield back and forth to focus the beam.

I installed in about an hour. I did a "loose" install just to make sure everything was going to work. It did not the first time. I immediately though I had been had, but called the service line and spoke to a gentleman who advised me to turn one plug in connector around and see what happened. he assured me they stood behind the product and if that didn't work they would replace the whole unit. I turned the plug around to reverse the polarity and voila!! Light!

I put the ballast up by where the gas tank slides on to the two rubber pads and used HD velcro to secure it. Zip tied the wires along the fram and used the accessory slot on the fuse box to hook up the pos and Neg.

The light from the kit is, in a word, BRIGHT. It allows you to see what's in front and to the sides without having people flashing lights at me driving down the road. ANything that is reflective is super visible now. Stripes on the highway, signs ect. I can't imagine needing the 55 watt.

Would I reccomend one for your GS. Yes!! The kit is easy to install and the benifits are great. I would put one on any bike I bought. No need for extra driving lights now.!!

If anyone has any questions, PM me and I'll try to help.

Jim
 
Great! I tried replacement H4 35/100 on the 1100G last year, but never got the quality of light that my 1983 GS1100E got with a 35/100 bulb. That big round lamp really lit up the night. It was astonishing how much light came out of that lamp on the 83 1100E on the 100W high beam. Fortunately, the 35W low beams were friendly to oncoming traffic.

I haven't ridden the GSX at night away from the city to see how well that lamp does. HID sounds like a viable alternative if it can use some help.

Thanks for the tip.
 
I was wondering about ways to brighten my lights, it would definably make me feel safer at night. Any pictures of how it connected in with the stock harness? Or how bright and illuminating your GS is now?
 
Go to ddmtuning.com and download a pdf file that has step by step indtructions with pictures for the procedure. very easy.

Jim
 
Sounds like a nice upgrade, but a much simpler solution I've used for years without ever having replaced the bulb is a Silverstar bulb (and NOT the specific and more expensive "motorcycle" version) H4. The Silverstar is (pardon the pun) night and day better than a sealed beam OEM bulb and MUCH better than a standard halogen. Also much less expensive than going HID...

I keep mine on the "high" beam at all times except when it's dark out, which not only increases visibility to others during the day, but also saves the "Low" beam filiment for night use, when you will only occasionally be using the high beam. I think my Silverstar is going on its sixth year without a failure.

Appreciate the review, though!

Regards,
 
Not to say anyone is right or wrong here but the decision to go with the HID was after a side by side comparision to a bike with a single headlight that had the silverstar bulb in it. It is like comparing apples to oranges. Yes the silverstars are brighter than the average H4 bulb but the HID just flat blows it away.

I have a buddy with an 09 Goldwing that has stock bulbs in all 4 of the lights and the same in his 2 lower lights. We put the bikes side by side and hands down mine is throwing out more light and its much more white than the Wing's. His remark was "The HID makes my bulbs look like the headlights from an old 6 volt VW"

I can't comment on the longevity yet but I will try to keep everyone posted.

Jim
 
I wonder if the "Wing's" shaped headlights may have had something to do with the lack of performance? Sometimes those fancy shaped lenses aren't as effective as a simple round reflector.

I agree that the HID's are much brighter ... I just like the ease and simplicity of the Silverstar solution, especially since the difference in brightness and "throw" was as dramatic with a "round vs. round" lens as what you've described with the HID kit over stock. By the way, for my bike, the HID solution would be a great one, because I have so many accessories that I could definitely benefit from the saved wattage.

Oh, and thanks for the nice review, Jim!

Regards,
 
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Just did the HID mod

Just did the HID mod

So I was finally able to find some time and head to my dad's garage to put in my new HID light. Picked it up from DDM and the quality is very good. I got the 55 watt bulb in the 6000k range. It is really bright blue-ish white. (Almost the color of Obi-Wan's lightsaber)

Installation was a cinch, just a couple of leads to plug into and run the new wires.

I have yet to see how it performs at night, but I love the way it looks.
DSCN1900.jpg
 
Digging up the old stuff here, I know but updating my expirience.

I had an HID bulb go out in my GS1100G and the DDM Tuning bulbs are supposedly lifetime guaranteed. I called and went through their procedure for the warranty claim. I called and spoke with a tech and he agreed that the bulb sounded bad. They asked for it back because they do "testing" on it to find out why it went bad.

I find that to be a huge crock of BS, but oh well, I'll play along.

I was sent back a replacement bulb that was the wrong one. I originally installed a HI/LoW H4 and they sent me a 35W low beam replacement. I called again and they asked for a picture of what they sent. I still played along but relayed my frustration at being asked for all this crap.

I recieved the correct replacement promptly and they let me keep the first bulb they sent as a spare.

Overall still very happy with the system and after having to ride with an H4 halagen again, there is no way I would go back. For the $27.50 for even the single low beam bulb, the light output is 7 times that of a standard halagen.

I recently picked up a 77 GS550. It still has the non halagen headlight. I will be spending the $27.50 very soon to replace the "candle behind glass."

Spend the few extra bucks. You will be very happy you did. Even in bright sunlight you are more noticable to other drivers than any orange vest would make you, and at not much more cost.
 
When switching to an HID lamp, any concerns w glare, ie, blinding oncoming traffic?

It might be illegal to install an HID lamp into a standard halogen light fixture.
 
I tried replacement H4 35/100 on the 1100G last year, but never got the quality of light that my 1983 GS1100E got with a 35/100 bulb.
No surprise there, I just can't imagine how you would expect a 35-watt bulb to equal, let alone out-perform, the stock 55-watt bulb.
shrug2.gif



I have a buddy with an 09 Goldwing that has stock bulbs in all 4 of the lights and the same in his 2 lower lights. We put the bikes side by side and hands down mine is throwing out more light and its much more white than the Wing's. His remark was "The HID makes my bulbs look like the headlights from an old 6 volt VW"

I wonder if the "Wing's" shaped headlights may have had something to do with the lack of performance? Sometimes those fancy shaped lenses aren't as effective as a simple round reflector.
The lights on my Wing are FAR better than any other halogen system I have ever used or seen, and the lighting on the newer 1800 Wings (mine is a 1500) is even better. The "shaped" headlights are really properly shaped, I think they are better than a "simple round reflector".


t might be illegal to install an HID lamp into a standard halogen light fixture.
Not sure just how "legal" it is, but it is seldom advised to put an HID conversion kit into a reflector that was designed for a filament-type bulb. The arc that produces the light in the HID capsule is not in the same place or orientation as the stock filament would be, so the projected beam WILL be affected. Some lights might not be affected quite as much as others, but it still won't be "right".

I'm glad you think it worked out for you, but, if you get the chance, have someone else ride your bike toward you while you are driving a car at night to see for yourself how much glare there is. You can't rely on having other drivers flash their lights at you in disapproval, most of them will simply tolerate it and curse you, but you can't hear them.

.
 
Anyone who is not using headlight relays may find it useful to do voltage drop tests on the headight circuit. I recommend this to be part of the yearly (or more often) maintenance/PM on older bikes. It is certainly worth doing on any motorcycle as most have very thin wires to the lights.

It is common to find more than one volt drop in the high beam circuit and often close to that in the ground. I have measured 3+ volts drop in the headlight circuit of several bikes. Looking after that really brightens the lights and can reduce problems such as switch failure.

A simple way to check is to take your voltmeter and check with headlight on. Check between the left terminal (H4 & old sealed beams) and a good ground such as battery negative or a frame bolt. This will indicate whether the ground circuit is adequate if the voltage measured is less than 0.2 volts.

For the "powered side" check between the right side terminal (high beam) and the battery positive. If you are reading much more than 1/2 volt, you may wish to start looking for the voltage drop in case it is localized in a switch. If the Vd is approaching one volt I definitely start dealing with the cause.

A thorough discussion of voltage drop testing with consideration of how to decide whether headlight relays or ignition switch relay would benefit was planned for an electrical thread but will have to see whether entusiasm for taking that on will return.

Anyone ever wonder why professionals almost never post to web groups......

HIH

Norm
 
They do it all the time here for the coils, but nobody has ever suggested doing it for the headlight. :o

Take a few moments, do a search on "coil relay mod" to see how many have done it.

.
 
I have done the coil relay mod, had not even thought about doing it for the headlight!

Guess that goes on the endless list. ..

Has anybody created a secondary fuse panel to run multiple relays? Would running a 10g wire direct from the battery to a new three or four fuse box, then run the power for the seperate relays from that ... Horn, Coils, Headlight, Accessory...
 
Why not just clean the original harness, instead of installing all the Band-Aids (relays)?

A properly-cleaned harness will cause very minimal voltage losses.

The only real reason to install a relay is if you install something that will draw more current than the stock wiring will handle, or if you want to switch something, like a headlight cut-out while activating the starter.

.
 
Steve, do voltage drop tests on the headlight circuit and that will answer the concern. It is typical for motorcycles to use smaller diameter wire than one would wish which results in excessive voltage drop/line loss. 3/4-2 volts is not unusual.

Your point is well taken in so far as the assertion that one should evaluate whether relays are actually beneficial. Some bike models really benefit while others do no, it depends on the voltage drop which is simple to measure.

It would be most helpful if owners would measure voltage drops and post the headlight high beam and ground circuit voltages with the year and model of their bike. Steve's post reminded me that it would also be useful to post whether or not you have cleaned/checked the harness wiring connections.

If we have a representation of the typical voltage drops for various models, it would be useful for those who do not intend to install relays. If one knows, for example, that 1 volt is the typical voltage drop in the battery to headlight, and theirs is showing more, it is then obvious that a bad connection is present. One could then look for the problem before it becomes worse, perhaps melting a connector.

An example of the headlight voltage question is the Honda ST1100 versus Kawasaki KLR650 comparison. The ST does not benefit from headlight (power side) circuit modifications because of miminal voltage drop. It does very much benefit from a relay to by-pass the ignition circuit to fuse box voltage drop.

The KLR650 benefits greatly from headlight relays. Mine had a headlight which was brighter with engine not running thann stock ones with engine running. Installing headlight relays onto the older KLR650's removes the main load from the ignition switch circuit so a main power relay is not required.

HIH

Norm
 
So I was finally able to find some time and head to my dad's garage to put in my new HID light. Picked it up from DDM and the quality is very good. I got the 55 watt bulb in the 6000k range. It is really bright blue-ish white. (Almost the color of Obi-Wan's lightsaber)

Installation was a cinch, just a couple of leads to plug into and run the new wires.


which kit did you end up getting?

Doe this DDM kit still get High/Low beam? I'm thinking about 55w in either 6k or 8k (they say that the 55k kits wash out some of the color, so higher K looks a little lower than it actually is)
 
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I got the 35w/ 5000k, works great, has hi/low.


any reason not to get the 55w? seems like it's not just brighter, also throws more light so you're less likely to outrun your lamp... thinking about the 55 6k or 8k currently but curious what other people have chosen and why
 
how's the beam pattern? Do you ever get motorists flashing lights at you, or have your fellow riders mentioned that your lights are too bright at night?
 
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