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High Speed Wobble

  • Thread starter Thread starter rlv1100
  • Start date Start date
R

rlv1100

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Does your old GS have a high speed wobble? I'm talking 100-130 mph. Of course you've already checked your tires and their pressure. Of course your shocks are okay.
Worn out steering head bearings can definitely cause this. Mine through me off at the all Harley drags in '93 at 120 when I shifted into fourth.
It's a bit of a job, but well worth it. Mine runs straight and true now.
 
I've also found higher speed headshakes to be attributed to rims being out of true. especially spoked rims, which frequently suffer from this illness.

there are indeed many causes for headshake at high speeds.
 
Does your old GS have a high speed wobble? Mine through me off at the all Harley drags in '93 at 120 when I shifted into fourth.

I don't think it would matter to me. If I got bucked off once going 120........I wouldn't ever go 120 again.
 
My 1100EX is downright scary at 90+

New steering stem bearings, tires, wheels balanced, but still wiggles & giggles at high speed...
 
Swingarm bearings, rear shocks, any kind of fairing... all have an impact.

:)

I need to the check swingarm bearings, that's something I've not done... :o

I've been wanting to put progressive springs up front as well.

The rear shocks are stockers, they seem OK - I do have a small Spitfire windscreen up front, but it's pretty small & not that obtrusive.

Thanks for the suggestions...
 
I need to the check swingarm bearings, that's something I've not done... :o
Did it
I've been wanting to put progressive springs up front as well.
Did it.
The rear shocks are stockers
Did them too.
I do have a small Spitfire windscreen up front
I dont have one.

New Allballs head bearings, New tires and a very through alignment.

Still shakes above 7K RPMs in 5th (MPH ?).
 
Air pressure different from leg to leg will cause a head shake at speed
 
I was told by the guy that ran the first factory backed GS1100 at Bonneville {the bike was Canadian as they werent released here yet} That the bike handled so bad with head shake, they had to put it on a chassis jig and cut the steering head off & reweld it so the front & rear wheels were inline to cure the problem. Take it for what its worth, dont shoot the messenger ! Mine at 80 when you hit a bump when the front end is light will make you see Jesus, and its a 17,000 mile original.
 
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I need to the check swingarm bearings, that's something I've not done... :o

I've been wanting to put progressive springs up front as well.

The rear shocks are stockers, they seem OK - I do have a small Spitfire windscreen up front, but it's pretty small & not that obtrusive.

Thanks for the suggestions...

I would remove the spitfire windscreen and go out for test ride. Handlebar mounting fairings :eek:
 
I would remove the spitfire windscreen and go out for test ride. Handlebar mounting fairings :eek:

Thanks, that's a good idea, might as well rule that out (or not).

Actually I just checked the F to R alignment using the string method... the F wheel is offset from the R wheel by about 2mm. To make it straight I would have to move the wheel to the left (speedo gear side), but there's no spacer there to remove so I'm no sure how to adjust it.

Is this within acceptable limits? What are my options?

One note, I've not done this "string alignment thing" before so perhaps I didn't get it quite right.
 
Thanks, that's a good idea, might as well rule that out (or not).

Actually I just checked the F to R alignment using the string method... the F wheel is offset from the R wheel by about 2mm. To make it straight I would have to move the wheel to the left (speedo gear side), but there's no spacer there to remove so I'm no sure how to adjust it.

Is this within acceptable limits? What are my options?

One note, I've not done this "string alignment thing" before so perhaps I didn't get it quite right.

you change the rear wheel alignment using the swing arm adjusters, If front wheel is to the right of rear, the push left rear axle forward to aligh. It doesnt take much. IIRC, about 1/6 of a turn per mm.

The double check the alignment of strings. Strings should be equal distant and parallel to the ft rotors (i.e. 4 distances all equal)

Right Fnt edge of rotor to string
Right Rear edge of rotor to string
Left Fnt edge of rotor to string
Left Rear edge of rotor to string



All 4 of these distances should be equal to 1-3mm
 
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