Higher-flowing filter in stock airbox to help slight richness?

[tkent02]

Workaround...

Workaround...

Sheesh -- I should know better than to propose any kind of a "workaround" on this forum! Everybody's very "by the book", but that's OK. ;-)

Here's your workaround. Bring a box of sparkplugs and don't worry about it.

 

[t3rmin]

Here's your workaround. Bring a box of sparkplugs and don't worry about it.

Been there, done that! Getting tired of buying plugs! ;-)

 

[jetta90]

this may have already been suggested but................................

ensure the valves are adjusted to proper specs.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well, if our advice is "by the book" it's because that's the way it should be done. Trying to fix something by getting around the real cause will only end up in frustration and wasted time. Your theory makes sense to you but it just doesn't work that way.
As for your "slightly rich" problem and the float levels, what makes you so sure the levels are the problem? You say the problem is at idle/lower speeds but high fuel levels would effect all three jetting circuits, not just the pilot circuit. If you take some 1/3 and full throttle plug tests I'd like to see how the plug colors are effected. Of course, the mixture screws should be set using the highest rpm method first. The air jets at the filter side/rear of the carbs must be clean too. Mixture screws adjusted like yours is often because the fuel isn't getting atomized because of clogged air jets/needle jets/bleedpipes.
Changing the air filter to a freer flowing style won't help. Cleaning the filter (gauze?) and correctly oiling with actual air filter oil may help. If not, at least you know one more thing is now correct.

 

[t3rmin]

As for your "slightly rich" problem and the float levels, what makes you so sure the levels are the problem? You say the problem is at idle/lower speeds but high fuel levels would effect all three jetting circuits, not just the pilot circuit.

It's pretty cut-and-dry according to this excellent information:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

...and my own years of carburetor experience.

Obviously float levels will technically affect all RPM ranges, but it will be much more evident at lower RPMs since the percentage of total fuel output as regulated by that circuit is inversely proportional to RPMs.

 

[tconroy]

It's pretty cut-and-dry according to this excellent information:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

...and my own years of carburetor experience.

Obviously float levels will technically affect all RPM ranges, but it will be much more evident at lower RPMs since the percentage of total fuel output as regulated by that circuit is inversely proportional to RPMs.

I would listen to Keith on this one, and it sounds like you know whats wrong but you want to do everything but fix the problem hoping it will "go away"These bikes are very finicke and thats why things should be "by the book".

 

[49er]

It's pretty cut-and-dry according to this excellent information:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

...and my own years of carburetor experience.

Obviously float levels will technically affect all RPM ranges, but it will be much more evident at lower RPMs since the percentage of total fuel output as regulated by that circuit is inversely proportional to RPMs.

Stop taking the **** out of people who are offering you advice.
Fix your float levels/leaking floats/ worn valve needles and seats or stock up on spark plugs. It's your call.

 

[tconroy]

Stop taking the **** out of people who are offering you advice.
Fix your float levels/leaking floats/ worn valve needles and seats or stock up on spark plugs. It's your call.[/QUOTE I just went through all this myself and it was easy.As far as taking the carbs off it's a peice of cake if you do it right.Having new intake boots really helps also.Nice and flexible.When you put the carbs back on,set them in the intake boots and put your airbox on first then push them in to the intake boots.It's a 10 to 15 minute job.Dont forget to replace your o-rings on the needle seats.i was tired of my bike peeing gas into my airbox and out the drain hose.Pulled the carbs fixed the problem and was riding an hour and half later.

 

[t3rmin]

Stop taking the **** out of people who are offering you advice.
Fix your float levels/leaking floats/ worn valve needles and seats or stock up on spark plugs. It's your call.

Hey now, I don't think I've been rude to anybody here. At least that wasn't my intent. I know tone is hard to convey with the printed word, so I apologize if it seemed like I was jumping on anyone. I'm just trying to provoke conversation/thought. I appreciate any and all comers. These forums are great and I appreciate everybody here.

I think, though, that you'll find I was pretty clear in my first post that I was already very aware of the "by the book" answer all along. While I have nothing against more of the same, my purpose for this thread was more of a "hey, I had this crazy idea, do you think it has any chance of helping?" My hope was to get beyond the surface and garner some responses like "well I dunno; if you're a little rich more airflow *might* technically get you closer to 14.7:1 AFR."

I'm lazy but not incompetant! :-D I've been turning wrenches for years and I know my way around motors and carbs. I'll do what needs to be done, even if it's inconvenient, but I'm also not opposed to a slight shortcut here and there. Despite what some may say, I can assure you we aren't talking about enough of a mixture desparity one way or another to damage anything. This is about a slight tweak, a stop-gap measure until something more major causes me to remove the carbs anyway and fix it right. In short, I'm interested in theory and explanation here, not ideals, because I really do know (a) the problem, what's causing it and what's not, and (b) the Right Way to fix it.

So anyway, I appreciate your responses and I'll consider the "just do it right" ones as "no" votes. I'll probably try it my way anyway, because in theory I still think my idea does have merit, but I do appreciate your input. And again, I apologize if it seemed like I was biting off anyone's head :shock: -- I really did not mean to come across that way! ;-)

 

[t3rmin]

I can answer that one,i just went through this on my bike.Clean your filter and use the foam air filter oil from Bel-ray.It made my bike run totally different.More air and more power and idles better.I was using regular 10w40 in mine until it started pooling up on the filter and making a mess in the airbox itself.real air filter oil is thinner and catches more dirt.Try that first before anything else.These bikes are very picky when it come to fuel and air ratio mix.Also might want to recheck your float height to make sure they were measured right.Did you measure with or without the gasket?That makes a big difference.

Yeah I do think I need to try some real air filter oil. It's on my "to try" list now. Thanks.

I did measure the float height without the gasket and they're all within factory spec. I don't recall exactly the measurement, but it would appear they're on the rich end of the range, though.

 

[t3rmin]

this may have already been suggested but................................

ensure the valves are adjusted to proper specs.

Yep they're spot-on. Adjusted them just a few months ago. Made a big difference, too. Runs much better now and the plugs do last longer.

 

[49er]

No apologies required by me. You appear to be telling Keith that he doesn't know what he is talking about though. Perhaps you missed my point.
Don't give theory too much credence, it needs to be proved by practise.
Cheers