Honda R\R replacement list

[Clone]

Have had it on the bike all summer. It is a very robust unit, large but bolts into the same holes. I will check on the schematic to see if it has a model number but I think it is off the 650 twin H2 model. But will check to be sure.

 

[Matchless]

Have had it on the bike all summer. It is a very robust unit, large but bolts into the same holes. I will check on the schematic to see if it has a model number but I think it is off the 650 twin H2 model. But will check to be sure.

Thanks man, good info and has it marked as for use on the GS

 

[rustybronco]

Just looked that one up again and found a small data pdf that states this new one at 50 A So gave the benefit of the doubt. Wonder which bikes use these.

http://forums.dsstester.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=836559

Yamaha PN is:
1D7-81960-00 (or 1D7-81960-00-00)
Part Number itself is a FH012AA
Part is a Rectifier/regulator for Yamaha Snowmobiles and possibly other units.

 

[Matchless]

Thanks! I wonder if someone has used one on a GS. This may actually be the most robust one available at the moment.
Hopefully we will get some more feedback with current ratings for more of the units. This will help determine some possible failings due to using low current rated units without knowing.
I think I may rather move that list to a new thread to get it into the first post as someone may miss it, being in the middle of the thread.:-k

 

[jacora]

Sense wire R/R's vs. No sense wire R/R's

Sense wire R/R's vs. No sense wire R/R's

How performs the no sense wire R/R in our bikes?? (of course Gs's)
Does it gets hot??
Does the stator wires gets hot or melt down??

Honda sense wire units (in theory) looks to be better because provides charge modulation to the charge system and avoids overheating of R/R.

So, I am curious about the fact that Honda provides sense and non sense wire r/r's in their bikes.

SO, I WOULD LIKE BRING TO DISCUSSION DIFFERENCES IN OPERATION IF ANY BETWEEN THEM.

 

[duaneage]

RRs with a voltage sense can respond to the bike demands better than those without. In an RR without a sense lead the RR basically looks at the voltage delivered to the fuse box and keeps it as steady as possible. If the rest of the bike has a lower voltage, that's too bad.

With a sense wire monitoring the voltage after the fuse box , ignition switch and a few other things the RR has a better idea of what the load is and can adjust the voltage accordingly. Also if the the blinker comes on the RR can increase the voltage to compensate easier. If the RR only sees what is near the battery, with large wires everywhere, then it will consider what the battery is at. Since every wire has some resistance, this is not the most effective way to regulate voltage, especially when you have a small stator. Motorcycles are not blessed with big charging systems. And the first priority for the RR is not the battery but the bike. The battery gets charged as a byproduct. Motorcycles are not really battery chargers, they are motorcycles.

5 wire units work just fine, the 6 wire units with a sense work a little better. If you have a large difference between the output of the RR and the connection where the sense is, it is best to determine what is stealing your volts and correct it.

As to heat, the Honda RRs I offer are rated at around 450 watts. The stator on the GS line of bikes puts out around 280 or so. The RR therefore has more capability than the stator can deliver, and more than our bikes need. This translates into lower heat because it is larger than required.

The Honda RR has low resistance diodes that typically measure around 530 ohms. Other RRs measure around 700. The lower forward resistance means less heat is generated by the rectifier.

 

[jacora]

RRs with a voltage sense can respond to the bike demands better than those without. In an RR without a sense lead the RR basically looks at the voltage delivered to the fuse box and keeps it as steady as possible. If the rest of the bike has a lower voltage, that's too bad.

With a sense wire monitoring the voltage after the fuse box , ignition switch and a few other things the RR has a better idea of what the load is and can adjust the voltage accordingly.

The Honda RR has low resistance diodes that typically measure around 530 ohms. Other RRs measure around 700. The lower forward resistance means less heat is generated by the rectifier.

Which are typical resistance (ohms) between leads in Honda R/R's??
5 and 6 wires??

 

[srsupertrap]

Smallest Honda R&R 6 wire?

Smallest Honda R&R 6 wire?

I am looking to install a Honda R&R with the sense wire but I have noticied most of the Honda R&R like the Gold Wing SH541 and even CBR's are much larger and since space is a limited on the 79 GS1000 electrical panel I was wondering if someone would share which Honda R&R will fit neatly onto the GS1000 electrical panel without major mods.

I am unemployed so I am being cheap.

Thanks

 

[Billy Ricks]

I am looking to install a Honda R&R with the sense wire but I have noticied most of the Honda R&R like the Gold Wing SH541 and even CBR's are much larger and since space is a limited on the 79 GS1000 electrical panel I was wondering if someone would share which Honda R&R will fit neatly onto the GS1000 electrical panel without major mods.

I am unemployed so I am being cheap.

Thanks

You actually want the larger unit for the extra heatsink area.

 

[duaneage]

I have models that are perfect for your application, PM me for details

 

[highmileage]

While replacing your crapped out r/r's with more robust units certainly makes sense, it is poor connections, overheating, and a poor ground that screw up the r/r in the first place.

Many of us have replaced the butt (or bullet) connectors either with spade connectors or, as I have, simply eliminated the connectors and twisted and soldered the wires together. Also, you need to make certain that the the r/r is well grounded. This will eliminate much of the overheating.

Also, as I have stated in other threads, I moved my stock, original r/r to a place where it gets properly cooled and grounded. And it continues to provide excellent service. The threaded hole in the frame is already there, I guess it's there in case you want to mount another horn.

If it doesn't break you don't need to replace it...

And if you need to replace it, don't you want to make certain that this never happens again?

 

[duaneage]

I disagree that bullet connectors are unacceptable. 30 year old connectors of any type can have problems, new bullet connectors are just fine. Spade terminals have problems too and don't offer more contact area. you don't get 1/4 inch of connection from them. The amount of metal contacting each section is about the same in each.

The Honda RR handles 450 watts of power, significantly more than the OEM units. They are famously reliable and run cooler to the touch. The ability to adjust the output relative to actual demand is a plus too.

While it's true something that isn't broken should not be fixed, it's also true an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Stators are expensive and difficult to replace, isn't wise to protect the stator with a better RR?

 

[ekabil]

I got a SH541 off eBay , originally from a VT750 Honda, and the chart PDF says I will need to adjust the holes as they are 3mm too far apart. What is the recommended way of doIng this? I don't want to just drill it out and then bust the RR

 

[rustybronco]

I elongated the holes in mine with a drill bit just enough so I could get the fasteners started. Don't sweat it, there's plenty of material to work with.

 

[duaneage]

This is one reason I never procured the SH 541. There are plenty of alternatives and I knew the Sh-232 and SH 532 regulators were famous for reliability.