Honda RR mounting

[Nessism]

As a side note, the '82 850 I recently bought has a smaller R/R than my '81 550. What was Suzuki thinking? Going to mount up the Honda R/R purchased off ebay this weekend. Thinking about using the stock plug off the old R/R so it will plug in like stock - but with dedicated feed to the battery.

 

[duaneage]

Thinking about using the stock plug off the old R/R so it will plug in like stock - but with dedicated feed to the battery.

I recommend geting rid of as many connectors as you can adn going to the statro wires, the battery box, and the frame. The square connectors are really bad on these bikes.

 

[robertob]

I'm with Duanage here - Throw those stock connectors in the garbage where they belong. Mine had bullets, which are really bad, but the square Hitachis aren't much better. I used old-school Packard 56-series blade terminals because that's what I had, but any 1/4 blade will work.

You could leave the stock terminals on the bike's harness and just tape them back in - if you connect direct to the battery you won't need to cut the original harness at all. Only the stator harness, which is no big deal.

 

[duaneage]

New bullets are OK, teh 25 year old one's are brass plated and they suck. Don't connect the red lead to the battery without a fuse, it's a safety issue. The fuse box fuses the charge lead.

I opened my fuse box up and soldered the pressed connection in the bottom. Picked up a bit of voltage that way.

Flat terminals can have problems too, they can end up loose or be pulled by vibration.

 

[duaneage]

As a side note, the '82 850 I recently bought has a smaller R/R than my '81 550. What was Suzuki thinking? Going to mount up the Honda R/R purchased off ebay this weekend. Thinking about using the stock plug off the old R/R so it will plug in like stock - but with dedicated feed to the battery.

Some of the aftermarket RR's are like postage stamp sized. Tiny flippin' heatsinks that burn your fingers if you touch them. The Honda has a big heatsink and that counts.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Duaneage did you see Kiwi's ingenious lil fan design? Sweet idea

 

[duaneage]

I would be concerned about dirt clogging it up, my engine gets pretty dirty.

 

[robertob]

I opened my fuse box up and soldered the pressed connection in the bottom. Picked up a bit of voltage that way.

You know what's funny my fuse box was already soldered. Looked factory, too.

 

[duaneage]

On my 81 they were just riveted. Fortunately I was able to remove them , solder and reinstall the contacts.

 

[Nessism]

The late model Honda R/R has .320" wide blade terminals for the stator lines (Suzuki used .225" blades on my '82), and dual .225" blades (two pair) for the positive and negative connections. The Suzuki regulator uses one .225" blade for positive and a small ground bolting to the battery box.

 

[robertob]

The late model Honda R/R has .320" wide blade terminals for the stator lines, Suzuki uses .225" blades, and dual .225" blades (two pair) for the positive and negative connections. The Suzuki regulator uses one .225" blade for positive and a small ground bolting to the battery box.

Good to know on the late Suzuki ones - mine was all craptastic bullet

I couldn't find mating .320 female blade connectors for the Honda RR so that's why I just converted everything to Packard 56 .250 blades. Pins are cheap, connectors shells are cheap, 20A capacity that's why I like them so much. Plus I have handfuls of new pins & shells from when I had '60s Mopars.

 

[KiwiGS]

Not My idea.

Not My idea.

I feel I should point out that the fan on the reg/rec is not my idea.
I found out about a guy who had done it on his VFR Honda.
If anybody wants I can post the link - it is quite interesting. I am sure the Honda unit I have just bought will last longer than the OEM unit.
I have always ridden with my lights on and plan to do so on the GS, so I see the fan as a cheap insurance policy.
After all I had to get my new unit from the other side of the world (Thanks again Duaneage)
I will let those who are interested know how it lasts.
Cheers

 

[Nessism]

Started installing the Honda R/R on my '82 850 last night - I've got a late model Honda R/R off a 2004 CBR600.

Honda R/R has large gauge wires for the stator feeds, much larger than the wires coming from the stator inself. The factory stator connects to the wire harness with bullets, which have evidence of heat already even though the bike only has 3500 miles on it.

The Honda R/R has two ground wires and two positive wires. Thinking about connecting one of the positive wires back into the main wire harness and running the other direct to the battery (with a fuse in-line). Does this sound right? According to the wiring diagram, the original configuration for the bike has the positive off the R/R feeding into the ignition switch thus I think the bike wants to see voltage there to feed various systems.

Another question, I know you guys don't like the factory connectors, but considering the small wires off the stator, is there any real value in going to high current flat terminals when the wires are so small - seems like a mismatch?

 

[duaneage]

I would make darn sure those two outputs are connected to each other and don't have different functions. Use a meter and see if there is 0 ohms between them. I don't use thee RR's because there are differences sometimes. If you decide to go right to the battery insert a fuse in a carrier between the RR and the battery for safety. Failure to do so could be a problem if something goes wrong. I would try and stay true to the original path, the problem is the Suzuki PEM RR, not how it was wired in or where it goes first.

As to current, the stator is high voltage low current so connector resistance is not really an issue like it is with the red output ( low voltage high current). I have no problem with NEW bullet connectors, they provide the same if not greater surface area as a flat blade, and when you look at the female flat blade you'll see how little of the connector actually mates with the male. As long as the connectors snap in tight it really doesn't matter.

six one, half a dozen the other way.

 

[robertob]

Started installing the Honda R/R on my '82 850 last night - I've got a late model Honda R/R off a 2004 CBR600.

Honda R/R has large gauge wires for the stator feeds, much larger than the wires coming from the stator inself. The factory stator connects to the wire harness with bullets, which have evidence of heat already even though the bike only has 3500 miles on it.

The Honda R/R has two ground wires and two positive wires. Thinking about connecting one of the positive wires back into the main wire harness and running the other direct to the battery (with a fuse in-line). Does this sound right? According to the wiring diagram, the original configuration for the bike has the positive off the R/R feeding into the ignition switch thus I think the bike wants to see voltage there to feed various systems.

That's how I wired it up. I followed the original Honda CBR wiring diagram - has the two positive wires connect downstream of the RR. I ran one to the original RR connection (which comes off the fuse box on mine), and the other direct to the battery.

The RR I used is a Shindengen SH678, and it just so happens that Shindengen has the datasheet on their website:

http://www.eshindengen.com/catalog/SH678 data 1.pdf

 

[Guest]

This is a great discussion! I hope that it somehow gets saved for easy future reference.

 

[robertob]

For reference, the SH678 wired up like a stock 929 gives 14.8 volts at idle with no lights on. With lights on, it drops to 13.8 and hits 14.8 at 2300 rpm.