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Hot Grips vs. Symtec Grip Heaters

bwringer

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I installed Hot Grips on my GS850G and Symtec grip heaters on my VX800, partly because I was curious about the difference. And my hands were cold.

The GS got Ergo II Hot Grips because they are rigid inside and have to permanently installed with epoxy. I've been happy with the handlebars on the GS for years, so a permanent install was not a problem. About $85 shipped:
http://hotgrips.com/product_detail.php?ID=Ergo II 520-760&ref=motorcycle&modelID=3&cat=motorcycle

I just got the VX800 this summer, and I may want to change the bars again, so I installed the much less expensive Symtec grip heaters from Californy Sport Touring -- about $31 shipped:
http://www.casporttouring.com/store...Product_Code=16011&Category_Code=heated_grips
(Make sure you DON'T get the similar-looking but vastly inferior Kimpex grip heaters. The Kimpex brand heaters use a resistor and aren't made nearly as well -- there are lots of complaints out there about the Kimpex krap.)

I wired both through relays, soldered all connections, and sealed everything with heat shrink tubing to avoid any problems. I hate wiring, and wanted to only do it once.

The install was similar with both, although the Hot Grips had a resistor I had to find a place for (I painted it black and zip-tied it to the frame just below the head tube). Dealing with the epoxy for the Hot Grips was a bit nerve-wracking, but I followed the package directions to the letter and everything went perfectly.

I had to shave all the ribs off the throttle tubes on both bikes. No big deal -- if I ever need to go back to stock, a new OEM throttle tube is only about $12. Both sets of grips pull just under 3 amps, about 27-30 watts. Both bikes have healthy electrical systems that don't even notice the small added load.

For both bikes, I bought a very small on-off-on switch at Frys (rated to handle the small amount of current easily) and used that instead of the enormous heavy-duty Russian Army tank toggle switch included. Hot Grips sells a smaller switch along with a cool-looking little plastic housing for another $20. I simply mounted my switches on small home made stainless steel tabs hanging from the clutch perch pinch bolt and encased them in heat shrink to protect and bundle the wires on the back.

For the Symtec grip heaters, I added a length of 1" self-sealing heat-shrink tubing to the left side -- this bit of insulation helps keep the heat from being sucked away by the steel bar. This is supposedly somewhat optional. (I love my $10 heat gun from Harbor Freight!)

At first, the Hotgrips got warmer than the grip heaters. However, I had an extremely thick set of Sunline touring grips on the VX, and the excess thickness was insulating me from the lovely warmth below.

I changed these grips for a set of Pro Grip gel touring grips in a more normal thickness, and now the Symtec grip heaters get slightly warmer (maybe a 3-5 degree difference) and are just a wee bit better able to stay warm in freezing temps than the Hot Grips.

The Hot Grips are very hard, but the Ergo II shape seems to work well enough for me, and the material is plenty tacky against leather gloves. If I didn't like them, too bad.

With the grip heaters, you can use whatever grip you want, of course -- even the stiff touring grips I used at first went on easily over the slight extra thickness. And, of course, you have the advantage of being able to change grips if needed, as long as you're careful in removing the old grips. It's best to carefully cut them off to avoid nicking the heating elements. I mounted my grips with hair spray and have had absolutely no problems with them moving around.

Bottom line, I'd say the Symtec grip heaters are the way to go (do NOT get the other brand you might find that comes with a resistor). The grip heaters have the following advantages:

- They're much cheaper - $31 vs. $80

- The wiring is a bit simpler (wired in parallel instead of series; no resistor)

- They work just as well or better than the Hot Grips, depending on the thickness of the grip you use. I'm using a rather soft gel grip, and the material doesn't seem at all affected by the temperatures.

- You can use your favorite grip, and change grips whenever you want. The Hot Grips are permanent unless you also change the handlebar and throttle tube.

- The Hot Grips are made from a hard plastic covered with a rather hard rubber, which you might or might not find unpleasant.

- When you switch to low, the Symtec heaters simply switch to using less heating element area. The Hot Grips use a resistor that gets very hot. You have to find a place to mount the resistor that can take some heat and gets enough airflow so things don't burn up. And you have to run the wires for the resistor.

On the other hand:
- The Hot Grips are POSSIBLY a bit more durable. They are proven to last virtually forever as long as you don't ever yank hard on the wires. If you mount them correctly, this will never be an issue.

- I think the Symtec grip heaters will also prove to be extremely durable. The wires are sheathed in a very durable material, and have much better strain relief than the "old" brand of grip heaters. If you add a small zip tie under the throttle grip as recommended, there's no way the wires can flex or pull out of the heating element.

- The Hot Grips are wired in series -- basically, each grip gets 6 volts. I'm considering adding a "turbo" switch that feeds 12v to each grip for those really chilly days. (This is not factory approved whatsoever...) With the grip heaters, each grip gets 12v so this isn't a possibility.

In 35-40 degree weather on an unfaired bike on the interstate, both will maintain a surface temperature of about 105-110 degrees as measured with my little infrared temperature measuring thingy. I can use a much lighter pair of winter gloves. In freezing weather around 25-30 degrees, I need my monster gloves, but the grip heat makes a big difference. If you have some sort of hand protection (I've considered adding dirt bike hand protectors) like a full fairing, they would be quite toasty and comfortable down to truly insane temps.

Both take about 5 minutes to start feeling much heat, and about 10 minutes to get up to full temperature.
 
Nice review, Brian! I don't often ride in REALLY cold weather, but even if I installed the heaters for the one Toys-For-Tots ride I try to do each winter they'd be worth it.

See ya soon!
 
After a while, you get a little spoiled and you start turning the grips on for the slightest little nip in the air.

I also find that I can continue to wear my racy summer gloves down to lower temps, which leads to much improved comfort and control.

I don't know how I lived without heated grips before now! They're a nice little spot of decadence, and I think they make the bike a bit safer.

On longer trips on really cold days where numb hands could become a safety issue, I carry my maximum strength winter gloves just in case the grip heaters poop out. No problems yet!
 
Just bumping this thread up for those that may find the info useful now that the icy hand of winter is starting to grip the northern hemisphere.

You Aussies can come back in six months... :-D
 
Glad you bumped it, Brian and reminded me ... with just over a month before the Toys for Tots ride I may be ordering some "heat" very soon!!

Regards,
 
Yes thanks for this post.

I will plan to add these soon.

Want to ride every day that I can \\:D/



Mike
 
Sweet! My sled has heated grips and I ride in stupid cold temps in Canada and Maine- like 30 below. Don't know why I haven't installed them on the bike, but I think I may try the Symtec heaters. Thanks Mr. Wringer!
 
I called CA Sport Touring today to see where my order from three weeks ago is. They couldn't find the order in their system ... curious since I was looking at a confirmation email from their ordering system as I was talking with them.

No biggie as I've been so busy that I wouldn't have had a chance to even look at them yet ... they put the order in again and I should have the warmers (and left and right throttle rockers) in a few days.

I think I am going to use the NC post from my air horn relay to power these bad boys. The momentary loss of power when I use my horn (infrequent) won't be noticeable. That connection is already right off the battery and fused appropriately.

Looking forward to toasty grips!
 
I think I am going to use the NC post from my air horn relay to power these bad boys. The momentary loss of power when I use my horn (infrequent) won't be noticeable. That connection is already right off the battery and fused appropriately.

Looking forward to toasty grips!

That's an excellent idea -- will this connection be off when the key is off? The grips take 5 minutes or so to warm up, so cutting power to honk the horn would never be noticed.

And to reiterate, I wouldn't consider electric handgrips with a GS unless the stator connections have been soldered, the reg/rect has been tested or replaced and properly grounded. They grips should also be placed on a dedicated circuit, preferably with a relay and always with a fuse. You can easily use this circuit to power other stuff.

It's not really much added load, but without a bit of upgrading and cleaning, the standard GS electrical system is often inadequate to just run the bike.
 
That's an excellent idea -- will this connection be off when the key is off?

Yep ... I added three relays to my bike.

Relay 1
Power: 40A Fused from Battery
Coil: Suzuki Harness Switched Power
N/O: Power feed to other relays
N/C: "Always on" power to Acewell Gauge. Only gets power when bike is "OFF" ... yes that sounds strange, but the unit has a different 12V switched power source lead, so this "always on" lead only needs power when the bike is off.

Relay 2
Power: 30A Fused from Relay 1 (parallel to Relay 3)
Coil: Suzuki Harness "Low Beam" Power
N/O: Feed to Low Beam
N/C: Feed to High Beam

Relay 3
Power: 30A Fused from Relay 1 (parallel to Relay 2)
Coil: Suzuki Harness Horn
N/O: Power to Air Horn
N/C: Destined to be grip heater power supply

I wired a new negative "harness" that all the "relayed" loads plug into that connects directly back to the negative terminal, without going through the OEM harness or frame.
 
Yep ... I added three relays to my bike.

Relay 1
Power: 40A Fused from Battery
Coil: Suzuki Harness Switched Power
N/O: Power feed to other relays
N/C: "Always on" power to Acewell Gauge. Only gets power when bike is "OFF" ... yes that sounds strange, but the unit has a different 12V switched power source lead, so this "always on" lead only needs power when the bike is off.

Relay 2
Power: 30A Fused from Relay 1 (parallel to Relay 3)
Coil: Suzuki Harness "Low Beam" Power
N/O: Feed to Low Beam
N/C: Feed to High Beam

Relay 3
Power: 30A Fused from Relay 1 (parallel to Relay 2)
Coil: Suzuki Harness Horn
N/O: Power to Air Horn
N/C: Destined to be grip heater power supply

I wired a new negative "harness" that all the "relayed" loads plug into that connects directly back to the negative terminal, without going through the OEM harness or frame.

Nice setup! Pics?
 
Symtec Heated Grips - free pair of ProGrip gel grips

Symtec Heated Grips - free pair of ProGrip gel grips

http://www.happy-trail.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=TUC%2017-9528

Symtec Heated Grips - free pair of ProGrip gel grips $44.95

SKU TUC 17-9528
Kit with On/Off metal switch (this kit customized for motorcycles). The left side is different than the throttle side. LIMITED TIME ONLY: By this grip heater and receive a free pair of ProGrip gel grips (value $9.95)
 
I've been thinking about this for a while.. not cause it's that cold here, more because I hate wearing the heavy weight gloves.

Thanks for the info!

Dan :)
 
I've been thinking about this for a while.. not cause it's that cold here, more because I hate wearing the heavy weight gloves.

Thanks for the info!

Dan :)

Yeah, grip heat is nice even on those only slightly chilly days, because you can wear the gloves that give you the most control and comfort. You're a lot safer when your hands are warm and flexible, too.

Almost a year later, both setups are still working great and have been 100% reliable. The left handgrip on my GS850 (an epoxied HotGrip) gets a wee bit wiggly when it's fully warmed up -- it seems that when it expands slightly, the epoxy isn't flexible enough to stay 100% attached. However, the grip only moves a couple of millimeters, and won't rotate or pull off, so I'm not worried about it. The Symtec Grip Heaters on the VX800 have continued to work great through three or four grip changes.

I've found that when it's raining and your gloves get wet, the water helps conduct heat even better. So basically, the grip heat works even better just when you need it most.

When you're on the highway at a steady high speed, the voltage stays at a consistent, higher level and the grips seem to warm up a little bit more than they do in stop-and-go traffic. Again, a nice effect just when you need it most.

I've also found that in extreme cold (below freezing), there are big differences between gloves and how well they work with heated grips. What you want are gloves with good insulation on the backs, and little insulation on the palm side. Otherwise, the insulation keeps the heat out. There are a few glove designs made with this in mind, but often with heated grips you're actually warmer with thinner gloves that allow the heat to get to your hands.

It takes some experimenting, but in one consistently cold and crappy week, I worked through my massive pile of winter motorcycle gloves to settle on two or three favorites. The warmest-looking gloves turned out to be the worst by far -- drafty, utterly non-waterproof, and downright dangerously chilly despite their bulk. The warmest, driest pair was a grungy, hideous, ancient set of Fieldsheers that have been kicking around my gear closets for at least 10 or 12 years. They actually had cobwebs.

I haven't tried this yet, but over on ADVrider.com they swear that gloves or glove liners made with a phase changing material like Outlast will actually conduct heat around your hands. Phase change materials actually store heat and slowly release it, and if there's a heat source, they'll distribute the heat and evenly release it.
 
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I haven't tried this yet, but over on ADVrider.com they swear that gloves or glove liners made with a phase changing material like Outlast will actually conduct heat around your hands. Phase change materials actually store heat and slowly release it, and if there's a heat source, they'll distribute the heat and evenly release it.

I have a pair of these type of gloves, made by Swix and marketed for cross country skiers. They are thin and the instant you put them on they start to radiate heat like you wouldn't believe. I don't have heated grips on my bike, but I do on my sled, and it's amazing how thin these gloves are and how cold I wear them on the sled. 10F and riding in snow dust all day and they are still toasty warm. The heat just radiates through them. The downfall is they are made really lightweight and if any nasty weather shows up I need to go to a truly waterproof shell. These are just nylon and can soak through, not good on a sled. But for most days they are perfect.
 

They look exactly like Kimpex heaters, which many people have had problems with. These may or may not be the same, and they may or may not share the Kimpex quality problems. Dunno. I'm just sayin'.

Plus, they use a resistor (when the grips are switched to low, the resistor absorbs some of the electrical energy so the grips don't get as hot) -- you have to find a safe place to mount a hot resistor and run an extra set of wires to it.

Personally, I much prefer the simplicity of the Symtec setup, which does not use a resistor (there are three wires on each grip, and thus two heater circuits). It also doesn't waste electrical energy when the grips are on low, not that that's a big concern, but it bugs me.


Also, I finally found a set of phase change glove liners at REI, and they definitely do keep hands much warmer than they have any right to. I need to experiment a little more -- they make my usual winter gloves pretty tight, so I'll have to try some different gloves from my collection.
 
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They look exactly like Kimpex heaters, which many people have had problems with. These may or may not be the same, and they may or may not share the Kimpex quality problems. Dunno. I'm just sayin'.

....

Duly noted, thanks.
And to clarify, Symtec specifically makes 2 types of grip heaters...one for a mc and one for an atv, correct?
The local dealer had a set for $37 in stock but it was the atv model, so I held off buying. They said it should work, but...????
 
The Symtec heaters for motorcycles are made to put out more heat on the clutch side. The throttle tube on the other side helps keep the metal handlebars from stealing the heat away, but on the clutch side, the heater needs to put out more heat to compensate.

However, I put a layer of heat shrink tubing on the clutch side (it's held on with a little weatherstripping cement inside) before I stuck the grip on to help keep the heater away from the bar a bit. My Symtec heaters read within 2 degrees of each other.

Hotgrips are all identical -- when you order a set, it comes with a plastic sleeve to insert between the grip and the bar on the clutch side.
 
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