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how do I check an ignition switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter doug g
  • Start date Start date
D

doug g

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I suspect the ignition switch may be my issue with my 550es. I have checked all the wires and have found nothing. how do I check to see if the ignition switch is bad. I believe when I hooked it up the key may have been in the on position. I don't know if that could have caused an issue with it or not.
 
maybe it is all gumped up in there.. a cheap give it a try i use is some electronics contact cleaner from radio shack. take it out and flood the crap,out of it and work the key around a bunch of times. Then blow it out real good with the air compressor and let it air dry a while..see if that frees up the contacts.
 
Can you check for continuity when you turn key to the "on" position. The key will close the circuit and allowing voltage to flow through switch. A simple test lamp or multitester with resistance will confirm that switch is actually switching by checking the wires that go into it.

It is possible that switch is worn out, but seems strange that it died suddenly. Typically, I believe these switches wear out from use, is the key fit sloppy or is the mechanism hard to operate? If so, there is usually a "sweet" spot that will make it work. If this is the case then you may be on to something.
 
The 83 nighthawk i just sold had a sticky gear selection switch.. would show 2nd, 4th, 5th, and OD.. took the spary to it and cleaned it up and then all the gears showed.. The OEM contact grease they put in there gets all hard and balled up and dirt sticks to the contacts over the years as well. i would spray the stuff and blow it out first and then check wires if it doesnt solve the problem. you cant get a accurate picture of whats going on unless your sure its clean first.
 
doug g said:
I suspect the ignition switch may be my issue with my 550es. I have checked all the wires and have found nothing. how do I check to see if the ignition switch is bad. I believe when I hooked it up the key may have been in the on position. I don't know if that could have caused an issue with it or not.
Click to expand...


disconnectg all the wires except the plugs for the handlebar switches and the ignition switch

the input to the switch is red and is bridged to the Orange wire coming out of the switch in the run or on position.

a continutiy test would show a faulty or dirty switch if you have power on the red that does not flow through to the orange wire when the key is in the On

these do get dirty inside
take care if you remove ths switch as there is a sporing inside if I recall correctly.
 
waterman said:
Can you check for continuity when you turn key to the "on" position. The key will close the circuit and allowing voltage to flow through switch. A simple test lamp or multitester with resistance will confirm that switch is actually switching by checking the wires that go into it.

It is possible that switch is worn out, but seems strange that it died suddenly. Typically, I believe these switches wear out from use, is the key fit sloppy or is the mechanism hard to operate? If so, there is usually a "sweet" spot that will make it work. If this is the case then you may be on to something.
Click to expand...
That is what I would do, red in orange out.
 
Many times I have given this bit of advice.

First check out the sitch leads, and be sure there is something more needed.

If so, then dirt and/or poor contacts are very probable, and repairable.

Disassembling the switch is easy, and it is the best way to clean it.

First priority:

Get a large, clear, plastic bag. Make sure it has no holes...tape any you find.

Before attempting to even loosen anything on the switch, put the tools and the entire switch inside the bag, then reach inside with your hands and do all the work inside the bag.


This applies for ignition and all other Suzuki switches..... parts will still go "Sprooinnng"...but they will stay in the bag.
 
ok i have power in on red and power out on orange. What are the other two wires for then?
 
wires

wires

Colors are different depending on the model but the other two wires take power from the battery to the tail light when the switch is in the "Park" position.

That way everything else is switched off except the tail light, I guess in case you had to leave it on the side of a road on a dark night and wanted to leave a light on to help alert the thief and aid in locating the stranded bike. Something like that.

In a typical application moving the key to the far left is locked. One click to the right is off. One more is on, then park. (Key can be removed but the tail light is on.) One more to the right (on some bikes) and it's locked again with the tail light on for a locked/parked.
 
doug g said:
ok i have power in on red and power out on orange. What are the other two wires for then?
Click to expand...
Parking light for one. I'd have to look at the schematic to remember what the other is for.
 
seems I have an issue with power to the gray wire from the fuse box. I guess I need to trace the orange wire and see why I have no power being fed to the fuse box. I have power out on the orange wire but it is not making it to the fuse box. I will have to get out the test light and do some more investigating.
 
There is a bullet connector under the tank somewhere for this. Also check all the plugs.
You're getting closer.
 
GOT IT!!!!!!

there was black wire in one of the block connectors that was loose and the fuse for the headlight was loose. when I wiggled the wire the light would turn on and off. Seems that the bike has a different R/R and one of the wires a green one to be exact was tied into the headlight fuse. this caused the holder for the fuse to be loose and did not make a good connection. I don't know if it is correctly connected but right now everything works. If anyone has a stock R/R for my 550ES I wouldn't mind to install the correct one.
 
doug g said:
GOT IT!!!!!!

there was black wire in one of the block connectors that was loose and the fuse for the headlight was loose. when I wiggled the wire the light would turn on and off. Seems that the bike has a different R/R and one of the wires a green one to be exact was tied into the headlight fuse. this caused the holder for the fuse to be loose and did not make a good connection. I don't know if it is correctly connected but right now everything works. If anyone has a stock R/R for my 550ES I wouldn't mind to install the correct one.
Click to expand...
I have a good R/R.
 
Green is a ground on R/Rs that use green instead of black. You had an intentional short. Hope you don't have some serious damage caused by that.
 
Billy Ricks said:
Green is a ground on R/Rs that use green instead of black. You had an intentional short. Hope you don't have some serious damage caused by that.
Click to expand...

Are you sure? When I get home I will take a look at all the wires on it. I know it has one more wire than the stock RR has. I dont have any idea what bike the RR is off of. Everything seems to be working fine but I still have yet to ride this bike.
 
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