• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

How to polish engine case on my GS

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
mikerophone said:
Subbed. I do a lot of work with a local powder coater and get a decent price, but they are weeks out and also like to have the ability to do my own stuff.

Are there other clear coats that have been recommended?

Steve - do you just re-buff annually, as needed or do you clear coat yours? I

wonder if the less smooth surfaces/more matte like factory type finish like Ed's (without a clear coat would hold up better in the long run or if the mirror like finish would?

Here's mine from last year and I rode the bike yesterday (59 degrees who-hoo!!!) and it doesn't look as good as it did then:

imagejpg6.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Here's a Roloc type wheel only with a once over on my VC, still needs polishing, but similar to the engine in the background it was DINGY and crusty:
3FEC27EE-8675-4C90-9B9F-9CC961F1272E.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Click to expand...

http://www.eastwood.com/exoarmour.html

Here's a new clear coat. Haven't been able to find a review of it anywhere. From everything I've been able to learn, doing without the clear coat is probably best for now.
 
If the consensus is to not re-clearcoat then that's what I'll be doing. A little re-buff now and then isn't a big deal I was just curious of people had success with a clear lasting for years and years.
 
I came across a video on u-tube about stripping clear off of aluminum and thought I'd give it a try and it worked great on my fork tubes. Wrap the part in an old towel and soak with lacquer thinner and seal up in a garbage or compactor bag. I left it in for 24 hrs. or so and all the clearcoat had lifted and just pretty much fell off the tubes.

Pat
 
Lots of good info! Ok,so no clear coat seems to be the consensus,but what are peoples ideas on cleaning up crankcases?Covers that are removable are fairly easy to clean up and maintain,but how would I go about cleaning up crusty,oil soaked crankcase,cyl and head and keep it looking good?
 
Nessism said:
I did these covers with the sisal wheel and black cutting compound. Followed with POR-15 Glisten clear. Came pretty close to replicating the factory look.

Click to expand...


I have to redo some of mine this season, think I'll do this. Really like the look and it's less work to touch up. You're doing the forks the same aren't you?
 
That engine looks great.

Maybe a stupid question, but when I remove the engine covers on the left and right side, will any oil come pouring out?
I know that on the one side is the stator but what is on the other side? Gears?
The thing is that I just change the oil...
 
1948man said:
Steve, I tried to search up your last few steps with the buffer as far as rouge, wheels etc but couldn't find anything. I have a mid range buffer (Harbor Freight) and am doing pretty good but not nearly the results you get. i don't suppose you could share some secrets or methodology???
Click to expand...

I do mine the Ichiban way.

 
If you lean the bike onto the opposite side it will keep the oil from leaking out. You can put it up on the center stand and place a 2x4 under one side to lean it over enough. You could also drain the oil into a pan and then pour it back in when done.
 
Vloukole said:
Maybe a stupid question, but when I remove the engine covers on the left and right side, will any oil come pouring out?
I know that on the one side is the stator but what is on the other side? Gears?
Click to expand...
Not a stupid question at all, thank you for asking it. :encouragement:

The cover on the left side (forward) is the stator cover. Oil WILL come out of there, unless you lean the bike to the right. You can tilt the bike by placing a 2x4 under the left side of the centerstand, the bike will still be surprisingly stable.

The rearward cover on the left side covers the secondary drive and gear shifting area. There is no oil there. You will have to remove the gear shift lever to remove the cover, just note the angle, so you can put it back the same way. You do have to remove this cover to change the secondary drive oil (should be part of your maintenance schedule), so get used to it.

On the right side, the smaller (forward) cover is over the ignition pickups, there is no oil there.

The larger cover on the right side (rearward) is the clutch cover. You will have to remove the clutch cable and maybe the brake arm to get it off. While you have that cover off, take advantage of the opportunity and check the length of your clutch springs. After all these years, there is a good chance they are near the minimum length, so plan on replacing them. The full set of 6 springs is only about $20.

The small round caps near the top of the cylinder head are the cam end covers, there is no oil there, but you might find an oily mess, due to leaky half-moons. Plan on changing them when you do your valve clearance check.

.
 
azr said:
I have to redo some of mine this season, think I'll do this. Really like the look and it's less work to touch up. You're doing the forks the same aren't you?
Click to expand...

Yes, forks are the same.

Again, for the factory look you don't want to polish. Do your progressive sanding but stop at 600/800. A gray scotchbrite pad is about 600.

When doing the 1000S in the photo my Glisten clear had gone a little cloudy. Not bad enough to make me redo it, but you can do better.
 
1948man said:
Cool, I'll probably experiment with that. I would think that the micro-fiber cloth would get pretty clogged with residue after a while necessitating changing every so often.
Click to expand...
Please tell me you are not taking him seriously.:eek:
 
Check out the Ichibon moto stuff,then check out some of the pop up-ups that come up with it.Good info.Trevor,all info is good info,some is just better than others.Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top