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How to use z1enterprises' petcock on an 850

  • Thread starter Thread starter Triam
  • Start date Start date
T

Triam

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I needed a new petcock so I began looking. The petcocks from z1enterprises.com looked like the best option. It seemed that no one, including the extremely helpful staff at Z1, could confirm that one of their 44mm spaced petcocks would work on my 850. I decided to be the guinea pig and order a petcock plus about 2 feet of fuel line.

Looking at it out of the box it looked like it would work great. I took off the 4 screws that hold the cover on over the diaphram and turned the cover 180 degrees and reattached it . The stock petcock has the vacuum hose coming from the front of the bike, and switching it 180 degrees like this meant that I could use my exact same vacuum line.

IMG_20140604_211306.jpg


I then took off my tank, removed the old leaky petcock, and checked the fit. Here's the results:

IMG_20140604_211041.jpg


The bolt holes were spaced correctly but it looked like the opening wasn't wide enough to accommodate the new petcock. I decided the best move was to take my tank into my work and use the machine shop.

I thought about putting the tank on the mill and cutting the hole bigger, but since simple is almost always best (and since clamping something to the mill is almost guaranteed to scratch the paint) I grabbed a round file and began enlarging the hole.

IMG_20140604_211057.jpg


The file was nice and sharp like it had never been used, so it only took about 5 strokes to make the hole look like this:

IMG_20140604_211254.jpg


The next task was to make it not leak fuel, so I got two o-rings that would make sure the bolt holes didn't let any fuel through.

IMG_20140604_211407.jpg


In hind sight, I should have stuck those o-rings where the bolts contact the petcock housing.

Here's how it looks all bolted up.

IMG_20140604_211556.jpg


You can see here that it takes up almost the exact space that the original took up.

IMG_20140604_211608.jpg


It looks pretty nice.

IMG_20140605_191639.jpg


As you can see there the fuel comes in the opposite side so you have to change your fuel line routing.

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Just run it from the carbs, up over the airbox, and through that space right next to where the tank mounts up, then it should fit nicely into the back of your petcock. Hook up the vacuum line like you had it with the stock petcock and enjoy a new high-quality aftermarket petcock at half the price of a new OEM petcock.




If any of you want the link to the petcock I used here it is:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ListItems.aspx?keywords=KL18-4359

I used the one ending in 4359 because I figured I didn't need a huge reserve if I have a working gas gage. Both petcocks should work.

Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions for improvement.
 
It is possible to refit the brass outlet to the other side if you drill it out and seal the original hole with JB Weld. I know acuz I doed it when I put one on my 750.
 
It is possible to refit the brass outlet to the other side if you drill it out and seal the original hole with JB Weld. I know acuz I doed it when I put one on my 750.

The JB hasn't let go sitting in the fuel?
 
We get mixed stories about JB Weld here. I have used it inside carbs, to fix float posts. It worked, but I didn't keep the bike very long. Others say if fails in gasoline. I wonder if it has to do with incorrect mixing or curing or something.
 
Orings dont go there or below the bolt heads..the gasket washers go there. they are washers with a metal outer rim and rubber in the center. When the bolts tighten the rubber makes the seal so fuel doesnt leak down the threads.
 
Nice write up that will help a ton of people as there's been tons of threads about this exact question. That's a good idea about swapping the fuel outlet, although I would be nervous about buggering things up and ruining my brand new petcock.
 
That's a good idea about swapping the fuel outlet, although I would be nervous about buggering things up and ruining my brand new petcock.

I was kinda worried as well, but really the only thing that can happen is you lose the spring that keeps the diaphragm closed when there's no vacuum. I suppose you could damage the diaphragm itself, but not without being careless.
 
Had to enlarge hole on my 850 for this petcock, used dremel tool and small cone shaped grinding stone, took five mins. Didn't think about switching vacuum nipple around (didn't know you could). Did you block the hole on right side after moving gas nipple with JB too? terrylee
 
Had to enlarge hole on my 850 for this petcock, used dremel tool and small cone shaped grinding stone, took five mins. Didn't think about switching vacuum nipple around (didn't know you could). Did you block the hole on right side after moving gas nipple with JB too? terrylee

When I got mine I noticed that the body is actually modular, there's a blank on each side and at the factory they must drill out one side or the other for the fitting. I simply drilled out the blank on the aft side, cajoled the fitting out of its home and inserted it into the freshly drilled side. It's a tapered fit and stays in place by friction - absotootly no leaks. Lastly I mixed some JB Weld and filled the original hole and let it sit over night. I was unsure how it would hold up to gasoline, so it was a $40 experiment, but the epoxy holds firm 3 years later.
 
Orings dont go there or below the bolt heads..the gasket washers go there. they are washers with a metal outer rim and rubber in the center. When the bolts tighten the rubber makes the seal so fuel doesnt leak down the threads.

ive been using 6mm copper washers on the fuel tap bolts they seem to do the job ok
 
Use regular JB Weld, not the quick stuff, and let it cure properly overnight, and it will have no problem with the gasoline.
 
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