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SqDancerLynn1
Guest
I am assuming you are talking about the forks. should be 10-12 lbs on average forks hold about 8 oz of oil. Check on BaseCliff's site for the manual and specs
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koolaid_kid
Guest
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BassCliff
Guest
Greetings and Salutations!!
Greetings and Salutations!!
Hi Mr. ncmoto,
The manual for my bike stipulated a max of 35 psi and an operating range of about 8 - 17 psi. I would run 15 or 16 psi most of the time. But I don't use air any more since installing Progressive fork springs. It's a highly recommended upgrade.
Anyway, I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...
Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Greetings and Salutations!!
Hi Mr. ncmoto,
The manual for my bike stipulated a max of 35 psi and an operating range of about 8 - 17 psi. I would run 15 or 16 psi most of the time. But I don't use air any more since installing Progressive fork springs. It's a highly recommended upgrade.
Anyway, I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...
Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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ncmoto
Guest
Thank you for all the info. I get some wheel hop in the front in turns. Mounted new tires on mags and relitively square rotor. I am thinking I should invest in those progressive springs. I drive it every day. I would have to wait until I set some time aside to do it. Very intimidating proceedure. 
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Guest
Guest
Fork Springs
Fork Springs
Nothing to it. Just take your time and use a manual. I changed mine in about three hours. Never had tried this before. It is all about learning. All the help you need is here in fourms.
Fork Springs
Nothing to it. Just take your time and use a manual. I changed mine in about three hours. Never had tried this before. It is all about learning. All the help you need is here in fourms.
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koolaid_kid
Guest
I have replaced the springs in 3 bikes, and I never removed them from the bikes.
I raised the front of the bike so all pressure was off the front forks and the forks were fully extended.
The bars had to be unbolted.
I removed the fork caps, being careful because the springs put pressure on the caps.
I flushed the forks with clean fluid until it came out clean, allowing all of it to drain into a bucket.
I filled the forks with fluid using a thin wooden rod to check the height of the fluid.
The most difficult part was pressing the caps down enough to get the threads started.
Just an afternoon's work, as previously noted.
I raised the front of the bike so all pressure was off the front forks and the forks were fully extended.
The bars had to be unbolted.
I removed the fork caps, being careful because the springs put pressure on the caps.
I flushed the forks with clean fluid until it came out clean, allowing all of it to drain into a bucket.
I filled the forks with fluid using a thin wooden rod to check the height of the fluid.
The most difficult part was pressing the caps down enough to get the threads started.
Just an afternoon's work, as previously noted.
twr1776
Forum Mentor
ncmoto, it is much easier than it looks to change springs and a mandatory safety upgrade IMHO. Go slow, post up if you have problems but Cliffs tutorial is very good.
I test rode a 12K GS bike with OEM fork springs yesterday and it felt like a pogo stick on a straight road. At 55 mph on a county road the forks were using approx 4" of travel and the pavement was not very rough, just typical back road.
Emergency evasive manuvers or panic stopping would be impossible with the OEM springs. $ 80.00 and an afternoons work is worth every penny.
I test rode a 12K GS bike with OEM fork springs yesterday and it felt like a pogo stick on a straight road. At 55 mph on a county road the forks were using approx 4" of travel and the pavement was not very rough, just typical back road.
Emergency evasive manuvers or panic stopping would be impossible with the OEM springs. $ 80.00 and an afternoons work is worth every penny.
