Installing a Dyna S - Timing

[salty_monk]

I've done one of these before (about 3 years ago) & it worked fine but I figured I'd get some feedback this time.

Nothing really concise from the search panel so here goes...

The DYna S is installed & wired. On the 78 1000 you can just plug into the black /whites by the batter & take a new lead to tap into the Orange white which sits in that big rubber boot covered bundle in front of the inner fender.

So.....

Turning the plate anti clockwise advances, clockwise retards.

You are meant to static time it at full advance.

So the trick is to make the test light come on with the rotor held at full advance & have the 1.4 line line up with the timing mark on the case (actually it's a small plate but it's stock).

My question is this: Is it better to be at the point where they line up & the light only just comes on (i.e. if you were to reverse the engine even a tiny bit then the light would go out) or is it better to be somewhere more central in the range of where the light will light?

If my timing light is not playing up (think it got hot from the wires sitting on the radiator of my Falcon & it drove it loopy so hopefully it's recovered now it's cooled down!) I guess I will probably dynamically time it after in any case to see where I'm at.

Dan

 

[Nessism]

Dan,

When holding the advancer you need to hit the mark to the right of the F mark - that's the one for when the advance is maxed out. If you don't hold the advance you can go to the regular F mark. And yes, you want the point where the light just comes on, not in the middle of the range.

 

[posplayr]

Agree with Ed, also had a long discussion with Bill last nite on Dyna S timing; he used a degree wheel.

If you have a caliper you can measure the marks; they are for the 1-4.
T=0 deg
F=12 deg (12 deg of initial advance)
| = 32 deg (+20 deg of mechanical advance)


Total of 32 degrees should be in by about 2400 rpm according to the manual

You want to check the 2-3 initial advance as well. That can be adjusted slighyly with the little hex screws on the mounting plate. By using the degree wheel Bill measured total advance with both 1-4 and 2-3

 

[salty_monk]

Makes sense & matches what I did last time... I guess those damn pictures of Bill's are making me a little more cautious this time around

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Do you have access to a regular timing light ?? Check it while running...

 

[trippivot]

just to get me in the range when a plate is first put on I have the #4 plug wire off and a spare test plug in it.

turn the engine over with a wrench and the key "on" after it is all pluged in fused and all.

the plug right in front of you will flash a spark as you turn the crank back and forth lining up the 1-4 F mark

then you can get it started and time it on a strobe timing light.

degree timing lights are frustrating 'til you get to know how to set 'em.

I had to go back to the manual to get the ign timing numbers after I DE_TUNED my bike on a dummy day. I set the light at 0 and lined up at the the F mark. no no no no. I have a love hate relation ship with my new fangled degree timing light.

this is how it is done- 0 on the T mark good 12 on the F mark good set it at 32 and rev it up over 3K see the line line up and go back down

yeppers runs much better now

 

[salty_monk]

I have a very fancy timing light but I have to double check it's not now a fancy paperweight! :lol:

I'm going to time it statically & then use the light to double check (both the static timing & that the light is working right!)

Dan

 

[Guest]

Here's how I did it.
Print out the timing wheel off the homepage of this site. Glue it to some straight cardboard.
cut out the circle.
Line the ignition timing up to TDC (T) 2&3. Without the Dyna washer put the degree wheel in it place. Use a coat hanger or something as a pointer. Attach the pointer to the clutch cover. Line up the TDC 0 to the pointer with the T 2&3. Turn the motor around until you hit the eight valve full advance. I think it's 36 degrees. With the mark on the timing plate mark the advance unit.
Double check the 1&4 advance mark (third notch) by putting the engine on TDC 1&4 and then the degree wheel at 0. rotate the engine until the full advance timing mark is lined up with timing plate mark. It should say 36?
While having a spark plug from the #3 cylinder grounded to the head make it so the plug fires when the advance is full by turning the rotor with your fingers. Use the mark you made earlier as reference for full advance. If the plug doesn't fire at all or before the rotation is complete rotate the trigger plate until it does so.
Now check the 1&4 by either using the existing full advance timing mark or one that you made to correct bad marks. Get the #4 plug to fire by rotating the rotor at full advance. If adjustment is needed turn the 1&4 Dyna trigger with that mini allen wrench supplied with the unit.
It's easier to do than explain.

 

[salty_monk]

Lol you can say that again!!!

 

[posplayr]

Lol you can say that again!!!

Now you know why Bill and I had such a long conversation about the Dyna

 

[gearhead13]

I have read this over a few times because I ordered a dyna s. Just got it yesterday, and installed it today. I went out and spent $100 on a timing light with the advance dials, I thought it would be useful. I ended up static timing it anyway.
But, strange thing, if I turn the dial until the 'T' mark lines up, the light says I have 20-25 degrees initial advance. Then I turn it to zero and the 'F' mark lines up confirming that it is at 12 degrees initial and when i rev it it goes to the third line exactly.
I am wondering if the 'wasted' plug fire is messing with the light?
Unless my light is defective, anyone else notice this? My light is an EQUUS #3555.

 

[rapidray]

Digital lights won't work with Dyna systems! Dyna will tell you the same thing. I have a high dollar, all the bells & whistles, Snap On light that is useless on everything I hot rod or race! Ray.

 

[gearhead13]

Digital lights won't work with Dyna systems! Dyna will tell you the same thing. I have a high dollar, all the bells & whistles, Snap On light that is useless on everything I hot rod or race! Ray.

Well that sucks First I have heard of this. Wasted $100.
How do you time for the 2-3 coil? I had to make marks on the rotor to be able to time it. Why didnt Suzi put marks on the 2-3 side?

 

[posplayr]

Digital lights won't work with Dyna systems! Dyna will tell you the same thing. I have a high dollar, all the bells & whistles, Snap On light that is useless on everything I hot rod or race! Ray.

Ray how does a timing light now what is controlling the primary when you do an inductive pickup on the secondary. I assume I have a digital meter becasue it has an LED display with buttons :-\\\

 

[Guest]

Well that sucks First I have heard of this. Wasted $100.
How do you time for the 2-3 coil? I had to make marks on the rotor to be able to time it. Why didnt Suzi put marks on the 2-3 side?

Read my easy to follow tutorial on the first page of this thread.
A degree wheel is your friend.

 

[Calvin Blackmore]

Read my easy to follow tutorial on the first page of this thread.
A degree wheel is your friend.

so tell us is degreeing cams a worthwhile thing to do on any bike?
i recall a joe minton articls from ages ago
and a naty vnce and hnes video that came with their degreeing wheel

 

[Guest]

I degreed my cams in. You can choose whether you want top end/middle/bottom. It's your choice.
It's not that hard to do.
Degree wheel
Dial indicator
Spark plug stop to find TDC
I put the degree wheel on the ignition side, use the stator rotor bolt to turn the motor and the dial indicator on the side of the stator.

 

[salty_monk]

Hmmm I have an even flashier model by that brand... so I guess mine won't work either.

What's the reasoning Ray? I would have thought that as long as you use inductive pickup from the spark plug wire then it should be no problem (unless there is too much "noise" from the other plug?)

I have statically timed mine using the advance marks so the light "just" comes on. If I keep moving the engine round the light comes on just before the initial gets to the line (a couple mm max so can't be a lot).

Dyna says to use the advance marks though... (not 100% sure the reasoning for that... maybe to make sure total advance is correct as that is the most important one..)

Anyone tried tuning by ear? Run it up a steep hill & listen for pinking....?

 

[gearhead13]

Well me likey the Dyna S, went for a ride today and the front wheel got really light part way through second, I dont even think I had it wide open.
I am not sure if my gearing is close to a stock 1100, because I am running the 750's 18 inch rear wheel with 16/49 sprocket sizes. I might be geared a little taller than stock, I dont know.

 

[Guest]

Well me likey the Dyna S, went for a ride today and the front wheel got really light part way through second, I dont even think I had it wide open.
I am not sure if my gearing is close to a stock 1100, because I am running the 750's 18 inch rear wheel with 16/49 sprocket sizes. I might be geared a little taller than stock, I dont know.

Did you time the 2&3 32 degrees full advance and check the mark on the 1&4?