S
sk843143
Guest
I just use a relay and and made a mount for the handle bars...two years plenty off train and no problems yet
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Robert, is that analog one of yours a standard automotive one? Do you think it will stand up to the weather or are you going to make a cover for it too?
I like the idea of the 5way one someone else posted from Ebay sometime ago; mostly because I like the idea of the clock and outside temps. I might get it after the family gets here but even with that I'd want to find a way to mount it and protect it from the weather.
I like the idea of the 5way one someone else posted from Ebay sometime ago; mostly because I like the idea of the clock and outside temps. I might get it after the family gets here but even with that I'd want to find a way to mount it and protect it from the weather.
It's this one. Only used -- the older style of the ProComp with the "Autometer, Made in Sycamore, IL" across the top of the face, meaning it's American made. Some AutoMeter products are Asian imports of varying quality.
I plan to use a simple meter cup and horse around to find a way to mount it to one of the arms of my Plexifairing, although it should be simple enough to mount to the bars as well. I'm hoping the meter itself is water-resistant at its face (the bezel-glass interface). Everything else will be taken care of.
An ignition-switch-operated micro-relay will feed battery voltage straight to the meter. It'll be arguably ugly, but I need the peace of mind.
Well, that's interesting. The website claims: All Auto Meter products are proudly made in the USA to the highest standards from the highest quality materials and components to assure a long trouble free life. I had to return a cheaply-made vacuum gauge to AutoMeter because the needle rattled like mad. They sent me a higher-grade meter in exchange, and didn't require me to pay the difference. The guy said that their cheaper lineup wasn't made very well, and they were imported -- Taiwan or some such. Hmm. The facts don't agree...
E
ekabil
Guest
Side question: Let's say I want to hook the voltmeter straight to the battery to get the most accurate reading. To avoid a constant power drain when the bike is off, I want to set up a relay so that the voltmeter is in its own closed circuit, with the battery, only when the key is turned to "ON". Also note that the PO has some conveniently located terminals on the fuse box that (I am assuming) are already switched, as they hook up to an auxiliary 12V outlet.
How do I hook up the relay so that the 12V outlet (there's two screws on the fuse box that the outlet is wired to, one + and one -) controls the relay?
This relay is a generic one from Advance, its a 40-Amp relay. That's just a maximum right, it's not going to blow the meter by ramming 40 amps through it as soon as I turn the key is it? It is a horn or auxiliary lights relay. Here are the different terminals with numbers and descriptions:
30 - for lights or horns (I'm assuming I hook this in to the + voltmeter wire)
85 - for relay ground wire (? does this go to the other side of the switched source? ie the negative auxiliary terminal? Or to battery negative?)
86 - from switch (run a wire straight from any terminal that has switched power to this one)
87 - from power source (from battery +?)
confusion!
How do I hook up the relay so that the 12V outlet (there's two screws on the fuse box that the outlet is wired to, one + and one -) controls the relay?
This relay is a generic one from Advance, its a 40-Amp relay. That's just a maximum right, it's not going to blow the meter by ramming 40 amps through it as soon as I turn the key is it? It is a horn or auxiliary lights relay. Here are the different terminals with numbers and descriptions:
30 - for lights or horns (I'm assuming I hook this in to the + voltmeter wire)
85 - for relay ground wire (? does this go to the other side of the switched source? ie the negative auxiliary terminal? Or to battery negative?)
86 - from switch (run a wire straight from any terminal that has switched power to this one)
87 - from power source (from battery +?)
confusion!
Too much effort. I want to see full battery voltage, and I want it automatically. The relay I'm going to use measures 1x1x2 cm. I can fit shrink-wrap over it. A few seconds of soldering and it's done.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Sure, you will know when it's not on, but if you forget to turn it off, you probably won't be there to watch it go down.
The relay is just a remote-controlled switch.
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E
ekabil
Guest
I think a relay would be easier than trying to find the perfect switch. A relay can be tucked away and thats it. A switch would have to be out of the rain and also accessible. Or I could try and find a weather proof switch, but a relay would probably be cheaper and also I already have one. Easy to mount as well. Just have to figure out how to wire it.
Another advantage is if I ever have to use my backup 8-wire RR then I will have a perfect place to put the sense wire. It would be reading the battery voltage more accurately than anywhere else without draining the battery.
Another advantage is if I ever have to use my backup 8-wire RR then I will have a perfect place to put the sense wire. It would be reading the battery voltage more accurately than anywhere else without draining the battery.
E
ekabil
Guest
well, here's that guide to wiring the relay in case anyone else asked the same questions I did
G
Guest
Guest
I just stuck a standard headlight relay under my custom dash to get the voltage reading direct from the battery terminals. It's mostly out of sight but I'd rather have it a little ugly than either leave it on permanently or take a reading from anywhere else in the electrical system than directly from the battery terminals as that's the only way for sure to know if it's over or under charging...
E
ekabil
Guest
When you wired your relay, was it something like this?
What did you use for your switched power source? I am either going to do it the way it is in the picture or using the "spare connectors" I found in the wiring diagram, which are in the headlight bucket. If I wire it as it is in the picture (using the tail light as the switched power), then I will probably just cut the tail light wire and attach each end to the relay. As in the picture.
Another question is the RR sense wire. Since the voltmeter isn't due to arrive for a while, would the circuit as it is wired in the diagram work without the voltmeter or ground to battery there? In other words, if the RR sense wire were directly attached to the relay 87 terminal.
Right now my RR is a 3 week old electrosport one, which doesn't have a sense wire. I installed a new electrosport stator when I put in that RR, and the stator has a short as of a week ago. Until then, the RR seemed to work fine once I got it hooked up right. But I am concerned that it may have killed the stator. Anyone have any experience with electrosport products? From posts a year ago it seems like they had a good reputation but lately they are getting a lot of hate. For example, http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/MotorcyclePrep/statorfailure.htm . But what could have made a stator short out within a week of installation and maybe 50 miles of driving? Such little wear seems to signify a defect. So anyway back on topic I am thinking about replacing the new ES RR with a used Shindengen SH541 that checks out diode-wise but hasn't been verified to work yet. If I do, then I want to go ahead and put that relay in and hook the sense wire up to it, to get the optimal voltage monitoring. Would it work as it is in the picture, minus the voltmeter?
What did you use for your switched power source? I am either going to do it the way it is in the picture or using the "spare connectors" I found in the wiring diagram, which are in the headlight bucket. If I wire it as it is in the picture (using the tail light as the switched power), then I will probably just cut the tail light wire and attach each end to the relay. As in the picture.
Another question is the RR sense wire. Since the voltmeter isn't due to arrive for a while, would the circuit as it is wired in the diagram work without the voltmeter or ground to battery there? In other words, if the RR sense wire were directly attached to the relay 87 terminal.
Right now my RR is a 3 week old electrosport one, which doesn't have a sense wire. I installed a new electrosport stator when I put in that RR, and the stator has a short as of a week ago. Until then, the RR seemed to work fine once I got it hooked up right. But I am concerned that it may have killed the stator. Anyone have any experience with electrosport products? From posts a year ago it seems like they had a good reputation but lately they are getting a lot of hate. For example, http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/MotorcyclePrep/statorfailure.htm . But what could have made a stator short out within a week of installation and maybe 50 miles of driving? Such little wear seems to signify a defect. So anyway back on topic I am thinking about replacing the new ES RR with a used Shindengen SH541 that checks out diode-wise but hasn't been verified to work yet. If I do, then I want to go ahead and put that relay in and hook the sense wire up to it, to get the optimal voltage monitoring. Would it work as it is in the picture, minus the voltmeter?
Steve
GS Whisperer
Doah !
Doah !
Have been thinking I should install a volt meter for some time, similar to this discussion.
Happend to be Walking into Tractor Supply this afternoon, and right there at front door in big bin was a big pile of these on sale for 3 bucks. Is meant for automotive, plugs into cigarettle lighter power outlet.
But I have already installed "cigarette lighter" in GKs fairing, so I got it.
Plugged it in, started bike and rode off on way home.
Dern thing flashing its red light at me. Didnt really read the instruction, but red usally aint good, and the red light says "faulty alternator".
Got out my multi-meter.
Yep, 15.5 to 15.8 volts.
SO, I was right, I should have installed volt meter years ago.
Man! I had other plans for riding tommorow.
(may post more in seperate posting)
.
Doah !
Have been thinking I should install a volt meter for some time, similar to this discussion.
Happend to be Walking into Tractor Supply this afternoon, and right there at front door in big bin was a big pile of these on sale for 3 bucks. Is meant for automotive, plugs into cigarettle lighter power outlet.
But I have already installed "cigarette lighter" in GKs fairing, so I got it.
Plugged it in, started bike and rode off on way home.
Dern thing flashing its red light at me. Didnt really read the instruction, but red usally aint good, and the red light says "faulty alternator".
Got out my multi-meter.
Yep, 15.5 to 15.8 volts.
SO, I was right, I should have installed volt meter years ago.
Man! I had other plans for riding tommorow.
(may post more in seperate posting)
.
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