Installing Acell coils and coil relay mod

[koolaid_kid]

I am installing Acell coils, along with the ubiquitous coil relay mod. I have a couple of questions:
First, the Acell coils are not marked +/- like my old ones. I presume I can put +12v on either terminal and the ignitor on the other terminal (keeping them the same, such as +12v on the top terminal for each and the ignitor on the bottom terminal).
Second, the coil relay mod details following +12v back to where it T's and then taking that to terminal 86 on the relay. Is there any reason not to just take one of the +12v near the coil and using it for terminal 86? I can't see why it would not work, but perhaps there are reasons?
Thanks.

 

[posplayr]

I am installing Acell coils, along with the ubiquitous coil relay mod. I have a couple of questions:
First, the Acell coils are not marked +/- like my old ones. I presume I can put +12v on either terminal and the ignitor on the other terminal (keeping them the same, such as +12v on the top terminal for each and the ignitor on the bottom terminal).
Second, the coil relay mod details following +12v back to where it T's and then taking that to terminal 86 on the relay. Is there any reason not to just take one of the +12v near the coil and using it for terminal 86? I can't see why it would not work, but perhaps there are reasons?
Thanks.

The only thing that really matters is keeping the minimum number of connections between
the Battery to -> Pin 30 and
87 -> to the coils (or the entire ignition circuit which includes ignitor)

Take you pick on how to energize the relay

 

[koolaid_kid]

O.K., I saw no rational reason to go back as suggested in the coil paper, but I have been known to miss things.
I can go straight from the battery (via fuse block) to the relay (30), then from 87 to one 12v terminal on coil 1, then bridge over from there to a 12v terminal on coil 2. A fairly simple arrangement, and it allows me to keep all the stock wiring should I find the need to return to stock.
The bike is nekked now, so running the wiring is fairly straightforward at this time, and connections (splices and such) are at a minimum.

 

[posplayr]

O.K., I saw no rational reason to go back as suggested in the coil paper, but I have been known to miss things.
I can go straight from the battery (via fuse block) to the relay (30), then from 87 to one 12v terminal on coil 1, then bridge over from there to a 12v terminal on coil 2. A fairly simple arrangement, and it allows me to keep all the stock wiring should I find the need to return to stock.
The bike is nekked now, so running the wiring is fairly straightforward at this time, and connections (splices and such) are at a minimum.

You can do better than that.

Cut the Orange/White wire coming from you right hand switch somewhere before the coils; I did mine in the headlamp bucket as to not modify my primary harness).

Now you can just power the entire ignition circuit from anywhere you like.

1.) Either from the open end of the Orange /White wire away from the RH switch).

2.) power the ignitor at it's connector on the ignitor side.

Either way will power both coils and ignitor with no further mods.

 

[posplayr]

Details here including a Dyna S. I made two mini harnesses; one for the DynaS and the other for the stock ignitor.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141055

I can easily swap back and forth.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Interesting writeup. Thanks for the link.