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Intake boot removel help

  • Thread starter Thread starter egent
  • Start date Start date
Update #3

Update #3

I have been soaking the two broken screws for two days with Deep Creep, and for the last 24 hours with PB Blaster. All of this seems to have been making no effect. I tried to see about getting a grip on the screws and turning a little bit today, but they still seem to be stuck solid. All I seem to be doing is chipping away at the little bit of screw sticking out. I would use heat, but the only torch I have is a butane lighter torch, and I don't know if that will generate enough heat to make a difference. I am beginning to think that drilling will be my only option. Is there anyone in the Philadelphia area that is good at drilling out bolts that might be able to help?

Thanks for any and all help previous and future.
 
egent said:
I have been soaking the two broken screws for two days with Deep Creep, and for the last 24 hours with PB Blaster. All of this seems to have been making no effect. I tried to see about getting a grip on the screws and turning a little bit today, but they still seem to be stuck solid. All I seem to be doing is chipping away at the little bit of screw sticking out. I would use heat, but the only torch I have is a butane lighter torch, and I don't know if that will generate enough heat to make a difference. I am beginning to think that drilling will be my only option. Is there anyone in the Philadelphia area that is good at drilling out bolts that might be able to help?

Thanks for any and all help previous and future.
Click to expand...
Theres a couple of these threads going, so excuse me if im wrong but didnt you say you had a dremmel? If so i still say you try cutting a slot for a flathead screwdriver and give it whirl. Make sure its a sturdy driver and fits the slot well, and give a couple of good smacks with a hammer...from what it sounds like at worst you're going to have to have them drilled anyway.
 
Yes, you have the right thread, I do have a dremmel with the flexable extention. However, as you can see in the pictures above I don't know if I have enough bolt sticking out to do that, but I just might have to give it a try.

I do wish I was as lucky as you are TheCafeKid to have near by GSRs willing to help you out when you need it. :cry:
 
why i think there are a couple of GSRs in the PA area... and yes i do thank all of them very much for helping me with my bike...Just keep at it bro and dont get too down, you'll get it licked. You know any mechanics at all?? this is a fairly common problem, for all vehicles, and i bet one could get you squared away sharpish. That lil butane lighter should be plenty hot to get some heat goin in there by the way. Heat the screw, not the manifold. Blue flame is blue flame.
 
Go to your local hardware store and get a torch. You'll get them out. As stated earlier heat around the bolt and tighten it a tad and back it out. Work it back and forth and keep applying the PB.
If you can get a notch in it with a dremmel I would go that route.
 
egent said:
I am beginning to think that drilling will be my only option. Is there anyone in the Philadelphia area that is good at drilling out bolts that might be able to help?
Click to expand...

I've only had to drill out one bolt in my life. I took a long time to do it, and it worked out. My advice, based on just one experience:

> Don't break off so much that you have nothing left to grab. You still need to be able to grab the bolt after it's drilled.

> Get several brand new, high quality bits. Sharp bits cut easier, and heat up less. There are two tip angles, the sharper point cuts a bit better.

> Mark the exact center of the stub with a center punch so that the smallest bit doesn't wander.

> Find a position in which you can comfortably hold the drill so that it aims directly down the bolt. This might require some support. Cobble something together.

> Start with a 1/16" bit. Run the drill slowly, several hundred RPM. Pull the bit out often, make sure that it isn't hot, and lubricate it. Special cutting oils are available, but I think that light weight motor oil will also work.

> You don't want to drill so deep that you start drilling the cylinder head. Using one of your good bolts, measure how deep the bolt goes into the cylinder head when it holds the boot. Mark your bit so that you don't go deeper than the bottom of the broken bolt.

> After the pilot hole is drilled, the rest is relatively easy. Go through the hole with successively larger bits, adding 1/16" diameter each time. Again, don't let the bit overheat, and use oil.

> At some point, the hollow bolt just won't grab the cylinder head threads any more. The heating and cooling from being drilled, and the pressure and torque of drilling will break it loose. Use the stub at the surface to twist it out.

> Clean up the threads in the head with a tap the same diameter and thead pitch of the bolt.

> Use brake cleaner through a plastic tube to blast the oil and metal shavings out of the hole.

> Use new bolts with Allen heads and install using anti-seize compound when you install the new boots.

I'd really appreciate some criticism of these suggestions, from people who have more experience at drilling bolts.
 
themess said:
I've only had to drill out one bolt in my life. I took a long time to do it, and it worked out. My advice, based on just one experience:

> Don't break off so much that you have nothing left to grab. You still need to be able to grab the bolt after it's drilled.

> Get several brand new, high quality bits. Sharp bits cut easier, and heat up less. There are two tip angles, the sharper point cuts a bit better.

> Mark the exact center of the stub with a center punch so that the smallest bit doesn't wander.

> Find a position in which you can comfortably hold the drill so that it aims directly down the bolt. This might require some support. Cobble something together.

> Start with a 1/16" bit. Run the drill slowly, several hundred RPM. Pull the bit out often, make sure that it isn't hot, and lubricate it. Special cutting oils are available, but I think that light weight motor oil will also work.

> You don't want to drill so deep that you start drilling the cylinder head. Using one of your good bolts, measure how deep the bolt goes into the cylinder head when it holds the boot. Mark your bit so that you don't go deeper than the bottom of the broken bolt.

> After the pilot hole is drilled, the rest is relatively easy. Go through the hole with successively larger bits, adding 1/16" diameter each time. Again, don't let the bit overheat, and use oil.

> At some point, the hollow bolt just won't grab the cylinder head threads any more. The heating and cooling from being drilled, and the pressure and torque of drilling will break it loose. Use the stub at the surface to twist it out.

> Clean up the threads in the head with a tap the same diameter and thead pitch of the bolt.

> Use brake cleaner through a plastic tube to blast the oil and metal shavings out of the hole.

> Use new bolts with Allen heads and install using anti-seize compound when you install the new boots.

I'd really appreciate some criticism of these suggestions, from people who have more experience at drilling bolts.
Click to expand...

Good advice here.

My comments are to dress the end of the bolt square so it will be easier to hit the dead center with the first bit. A dremmel will not work for drilling since they turn too fast; use a slow turning drill.

Regarding the engine in question, the ideal with the dremmel is to take a cut off wheel and cut a crosswise slot in the screw head so you can get a slot screwdriver bit on the screw. Use your impact driver if there is room.

Good luck.
 
Nessism said:
Good advice here.

My comments are to dress the end of the bolt square so it will be easier to hit the dead center with the first bit. A dremmel will not work for drilling since they turn too fast; use a slow turning drill.

Regarding the engine in question, the ideal with the dremmel is to take a cut off wheel and cut a crosswise slot in the screw head so you can get a slot screwdriver bit on the screw. Use your impact driver if there is room.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

If I have a dremel that has the slid switch to adjust speed, is it still going to be too fast on the lowest setting? I was thinking the dremel because it is smaller and therefor easier to control. With the flexible shaft it is the same as holding a pencil.

One of the screw heads broke off trying to use the impact driver to remove it. This is why I am reluctant to try cutting a slot as the impact driver broke it once already. If I go to cut the slot, will it damage to intake seal if it cuts across the surface of the head opening, not toward the o-ring but the short sides of the surface? As shown by the blue line in the below picture.

bikeheadmarked.jpg


Please excuse my inability to draw a straight line in Microsoft Paint.
 
It shouldn't affect the seal as it will still pull the O ring tight. The O ring meets the circular face below the bolt so it is sealed before that point.

If you do hit that bit by accident & you are fussy rebuild with JB weld.

Dan :)
 
The advice on drilling the bolt given by themes is exactly on target and is the only way you are going to get that out after seeing the picture.
Get a very small bit for your Dremel about 1mm and use it to drill a small hole as a pilot hole exactly in the center. Its easier to handle in the space. Dont go too deep. Now drill as themes explained.
If the bolt is well and truely stuck and does not loosen during the drilling process, you need to carefully drill a wider hole up to the maximum that will nearly touch the thread in the manifold, that is why an exact center start is so important. You want to have the thinnest possible metal of the stuck bolt left in the tread without actually damaging the tread. If nothing budges yet, the next step is to buy a set of left hand bolt removers. They are tapered and as you turn them tighter, in the anticlockwise direction, they grip the left over bolt tighter and should get it out. Use the heaviest one in the set that will fit and do not snap it off.
If you happen to mess up the thread, it is possible to do your own repair. Get a drill and tap and die that is bigger than the present hole, then drill and tap the hole, cut thread on a piece of aluminium rod. Screw it in and set with threadlock, cut it off level with the face, drill with smaller bit and tap back original tread into the insert.
Good luck!
 
Another trick that might work is to drill in about 5mm deep with a bit about 3mm thinner than the diameter then using a flat head impact bit the width of the hole (or a tad under) give it a whack. A bit of heat often works wonders too.

Personally I loathe using a bolt remover or eazi-out. If it snaps you're in trouble as they are harder than a drill bit (but I'm just cack handed).

Wally
 
I have heard professional mechanics say they used left-rotation drill bits for the drilling operation. They say that with the bits turning counter-clockwise, the cutting pressure/friction will often start the screw to back out before the drilling is even completed. The drill has acted as, sort of, an "easy-out" in this case.

Might be worth a try if you can find the drills.

Tomcat
 
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