Intake o-rings

[Anonymous]

Replaced mine this afternoon and just got back from a test ride. The difference is remarkable. Guess you don't notice the motor gradually running worse.

Now it idles smoothly at 900rpm from warm enough to release the choke until hot. Before the warm idle revs had to be above 1500rpm because it idled lower when hot.

Close call with one screw. Even with an impact driver it wouldn't come out and started to distort the phillips head. Don't you just love the sinking feeling when this happens? Luckily it was the left boot which could be swiveled around to replace the o-ring without removing that bolt. Next time will be a drill and easyout job.

Less buzz on the bars. No pinging under load below 3000rpm. Even exhaust note. Exhaust smells better - such as an exhaust can smell better. Easier throttle control in low speed corners.

Two of the intakes had some trails of road dust where they'd been sucking air. The o-rings weren't broken. They were hard as rocks.

Worth every cent and minute spent

 

[Anonymous]

How did you get an impact driver in place on the inner intake boots?

 

[Anonymous]

How did you get an impact driver in place on the inner intake boots?

There's just enough room with the airbox out to use a plumbers(?) mallet with a small driver. A rattle gun would be better.

(grateful for any advice from the ladies on the domestic justification for a compressor and air tools)

My stuck screw is on an outer boot where a hammer can be swung freely. Nothing short of a drill is going to move the sucker.

 

[earlfor]

Needle nose vice grips.

Earl

My stuck screw is on an outer boot where a hammer can be swung freely. Nothing short of a drill is going to move the sucker.

 

[Guest]

Need to replace mine too, but can't get the screws out. My impact driver fits on some of the screws, but there's no room for a hammer. Frame tubes get in the way. Basically nothing fits in there except a stubby screwdriver. Do they make stubby impact drivers?? The carbs are off and so is the air boot, but the airbox is still in the frame. Has a bunch of electrical components bolted to it. I don't think that vice grip idea would work. I think they'd just slip off. They are REALLY on there tight. They must have been shot in with an air gun cranked up all the way. I've pretty much given up getting the stupid screws loose.

Oh, and regarding justifying that compressor etc: my mom and dad used to have an agreement about things like that. Any time he bought something, she got an equal allotment for furniture. That way everyone was happy. Except when the bills came due You could try that...

Debby
77 GS550B

 

[Anonymous]

Auto stores here stock a 12 volt rattle wrench for 40 bucks. They're meant for wheel nuts. Wonder if it would work? Not inclined to risk the money to find out.

Problem with screws is they need a lot of downward force to avoid destroying the head. I don't think mine were super tight, but the threads were corroded into the head and that's the bond you've got to break.

Air tools.....mmmmm.....maybe convert all the household and beauty appliances to air?

 

[Guest]

Got all of my manifold screws out today Earl, I have to eat my words regarding the needle nosed vise grips. That did indeed get a couple of them loose. Impact driver got a few, and the rest I knocked loose with a cold chisel. So it's back to the hw store for some nice stainless allen head screws, then I can put the new oring in.

Debby

 

[Anonymous]

Where are these orings? Have you ever tried KROIL the oil that creeps?

 

[Anonymous]

Where are these orings? Have you ever tried KROIL the oil that creeps?

Next time it's the penetrating oil, needle nosed pliers and cold chisel. Afraid impatience prevailed this time. I wanted to get the job finished and RIDE.

 

[Anonymous]

I replaced my o-rings on my gs850, and I agree with OldRider...I don't have to run the choke for 10 minutes anymore, much better throttle response and much smoother.

Getting those screws out is a bear (no pun intended), with the help of a friend we did it by first taking out the battery, using an impact driver on the screw and putting a very long piece of pipe through the battery box space onto the impact driver, so we had lots of room to swing a BF Hammer.

Well worth it.

 

[Detman101]

How do you check the o-rings on the CV carbs(1980+)???
They seem to be built into the boots...

Dm of mD

 

[dgeorge]

One thing that I've found is that most impact drivers use a 3/8" head which will fit on a 3/8" ratchet, then you can get leverage with out having to have room to swing a hammer, you do have to use one hand to hold tension on the bit while you're turning the ratchet. This little trick has saved me from stripping the head on a lot of screws.

 

[first timer]

detman,
your bike doesn't have the orings behind the intake manifold, you have the 16v motor, so you have metel flanges cast off the head and then a hose type thing is slide over the flange on the head and then the flange on the carb.

i am going out on a limb and say that only the 8v motors use a rubber boot that is bolted to the the head with a oring between the boot and head.

-ryan

 

[Detman101]

Ah okay, thanks again Ryan. I guess the "Silicone" mod is for me then.
Do I apply the Silicon gasket stuff to the inside of the boot or onto the flange?

Dm of mD

 

[Anonymous]

Got all of my manifold screws out today Earl, I have to eat my words regarding the needle nosed vise grips. That did indeed get a couple of them loose. Impact driver got a few, and the rest I knocked loose with a cold chisel. So it's back to the hw store for some nice stainless allen head screws, then I can put the new oring in.

Debby

What size and thread type allen head screws? I have to ride to the hardware place which sorta means I won't have a sample OEM screw on hand when I get there #-o

 

[first timer]

take the impact bit and find a wrench or socket that it will fit into and just use that, you will have to push hard and make sure the bit is perpendicular to the screw and it should work also.

-ryan

 

[Guest]

David,

I'm afraid I don't know what size the screws are! Threw out the old ones and don't have the info written down anywhere. My parts fiche doesn't say either. They're 6mm dia and the pitch matches the bolts at the hw store (no selection on that). Can you maybe remove one and get a ride from somebody? Sure is nice to have a sample part with you.

Debby

 

[Don Lobacz]

They are about the same size as an old battery screw. Surely you can find one of those around and see if it matches (yes I can, and don't call me Shirley again). I usually put blue loctite on the threads. Stainless steel will seize in aluminum (some people say even easier than regular steel) so at least put anti-seize on the threads. I use the small 5" vise-grips rather than the needle-nose vise-grips. A cold chisel will also work very well. If you get one screw out, you can then use the boot itself for leverage on the remaining screw. Put a screwdriver or small vise-grip on the remaining screw and tap the boot base with a rubber hammer so that it pivots around the remaining screw in an unscrewing manner. Voila! (hopefully).

 

[whodatpat]

How do you get the old flatened orings out of the carb boots. And what is this Hi temp grease that I am suposed to put on the new ones?
Patrick
1980 GS850G

 

[Billy Ricks]

And what is this Hi temp grease that I am suposed to put on the new ones?

If you're talking about the anti-seize lube it goes on the threads of the bolts. It's a silver paste to keep the bolt from reacting with the aluminum and getting stuck.

i am going out on a limb and say that only the 8v motors use a rubber boot that is bolted to the the head with a oring between the boot and head.

Quite a few of the 16 valve motors have bolt on manifolds with o-rings.