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is that easily to weld a crank?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Addy Leung
  • Start date Start date
A

Addy Leung

Guest
I have a spare crank of GS1000-8v which is not welded. The condition seems very good and low miles. All bearings are good and tight. The rods do not have any up and down play, and turn it freely. The side play is also little. The 4 four small end also very fine.

If I want to weld it by a local machine shop here in Hong Kong. What is the procedures? Do I need a 18mm straight rod to hold all the 4 small ends during the welding? What kind of weld method should I use?
 
Hey Andy... If you're going to have the crank welded take it to a machine shop that specializes in engine work. Heads, blocks, cranks ect. If you don't and have a welding shop just 'weld it up' they may do more damage than good. For parts like that, I let the pros who do it every day, handle it for me.
 
Dave8338 said:
Hey Andy... If you're going to have the crank welded take it to a machine shop that specializes in engine work. Heads, blocks, cranks ect. If you don't and have a welding shop just 'weld it up' they may do more damage than good. For parts like that, I let the pros who do it every day, handle it for me.
Click to expand...

He's in Hong Kong, they don't play that way.

Ship it to someone in the states.
 
The 8V 1000's typically DON'T have a problem with twisted cranks, unlike the 1100E, unless the engine is modified in a big way that is.

EDIT: Forgot the DON'T:o:o:o
 
Last edited:
I don't think any of them have a problem unless they are severely abused.

Maybe drop the clutch at really high RPM for a big burnout? Maybe when the tire hooks up after a burnout? Maybe skipping out of gear and back in at full throttle? Not sure exactly when they bend, but it's not likely during the normal abuse we all do. Maybe one of the engine gurus will chime in here.

I've not yet had a twisted crankshaft, I'm on my eighth or so 1000/1100, and have worked on several more. They all get ridden pretty hard on occasion, though I'm not deliberately trying to twist a crank.
 
I just took my crank off to a local auto machine shop to be welded. Talked to the guy today, he's going after a chromed rod to put through the rod pins to make sure it is straight, and then welding it tomorrow. Says as long as it is not twisted, he'll charge me $50. Sounded reasonable to me.
 
The pros do it from a completely disassembled crank, pressing up each section, tack welding, trueing and finish welding each piece before moving on to the next press assembly and weld sequence.
IMO doing a fully assembled crank is asking for alignment problems.

Greg T
 
tkent02 said:
I don't think any of them have a problem unless they are severely abused.

Maybe drop the clutch at really high RPM for a big burnout? Maybe when the tire hooks up after a burnout? Maybe skipping out of gear and back in at full throttle? Not sure exactly when they bend, but it's not likely during the normal abuse we all do. Maybe one of the engine gurus will chime in here.

I've not yet had a twisted crankshaft, I'm on my eighth or so 1000/1100, and have worked on several more. They all get ridden pretty hard on occasion, though I'm not deliberately trying to twist a crank.
Click to expand...

I would have to disagree respectfully on the 82 1100 cranks. Mine twisted with very light abuse (wheelie) at 10K.
 
My 80 1100 crank was very abused with an 1166 kit, heavy rider and it was still perfect. I was pleasantly suprised.
 
you cannot weld a crank as one piece. as mentioned it has to be broken down and reassembled, welding each web to the big end journal at a time, whilst constantly keeping it true. a proper jig is required to prevent distortion and a bloody good welder!
 
I have done several kz1000 ball bearing cranks which were all used in drag bike motors with perfect success. it isnt that big of a deal. just make sure its strait first. spray everything with antispatter and dont do the whole weld at one time as this will put to much heat into the crank causing it to warp. break each weld into 3 equal pieces. weld one third the way around one pin and move to another pin and do one third of it. then go back and do another third on the first pin till all are completed. grind down any real high points, completely wash in solvent and blow off, recheck for straitness and install. I couldnt imagine taking one apart to weld it.:eek: cant see why a suzy crank would be any different unless there are some pins you cant get to without taking it apart but I doubt that
 
You do not disassemble the crank to weld it. The only time it is done that way is when the the crank is being rebuilt.

Welding the pins so they won't twist is done to the complete assembly. Check it with the rod to make sure it is not twisted, the weld the pins, each about 1/2 inch, in a couple of spots.
 
Big Jay said:
You do not disassemble the crank to weld it. The only time it is done that way is when the the crank is being rebuilt.

Welding the pins so they won't twist is done to the complete assembly. Check it with the rod to make sure it is not twisted, the weld the pins, each about 1/2 inch, in a couple of spots.
Click to expand...

And the final word from the man who should know.
 
get some one who has done it with success many times. there things you need to know. thats why it cost $300 to do it from the people who know.
 
Anyway to tell if a crank has been welded without tearing it down? If so what am I looking for?
 
Joe,
You pull the clutch basket out and you will be able to see the welds by peering into the crankcase.
Jim
 
use ER80-D3 tig rod and heat shield your bearings

the more power you plan to put to it the wider and deeper the welds.

maximum weld width a quarter of an inch( 6~7mm ) good for 100 shot of nitrous!!

do not forget to test fit your crank in the cases. There is a chance a big sloppy weld bead will hit the cases as it spins around. rod area too.
 
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