Is this an original shunt type R/R?

[suziscrambler]

Hey Folks,

I'm trying to track down a battery drain symptom on my GS650E. I'm trying to test the diodes on the R/R connectors as per the Test Phase C on Stator pages but would like to clarify this note:

NOTE:this test will only work on original R/R's or those using a Shunt-type design. Try performing the Quick Test if you haven't already.

I have this R/R but would like to check if they are original shunt type? Testing the points on the RR, I do not get any readings on my multimeter which could mean the R/R has failed? Although a 10 mile trip warms it up which means there is some current going through?

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

[tom203]

Yes, that's the equivalent of the stock r/r...it's a shunt.
Does you multimeter have a diode test function position?
you hinted at the stator papers..have you absorbed the stuff about a series r/r being the way to go?

 

[suziscrambler]

Thanks Tom. Yes I have a multimeter and I mentioned I did not get any readings on test diode position. Signs indicate it is a faulty R/R. Sourcing a good one leaves me a little confused - I am in Australia and I am not sure which R/R is the most up to date and genuine. I hear different brands like Polaris, Series?

Thanks

 

[tom203]

Seems odd that at least one set of three diode pairs didn't show OK, but who knows. It's challenging to find a true series r/r even here. The polaris p/n is 4012941 used on a bunch of their Atvs... these critters are often wrecked, so you might find a used one in a gully or salvage yard. Made by Shindengen, this model r/r is very durable.. I would expect genuine used ones to be fine..BUT beware, imitations are everywhere. It will be stamped with that p/n and SH-775 a (or b)

Did you see this?
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?191795-GS-Stator&p=1630965#post1630965

 

[tom203]

Here's an ebay item that shows you a genuine used sh-775... note shape, markings

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-POLAR...ash=item3f97e01a1a:g:~HAAAOSwGbhauswL&vxp=mtr

 

[Steve]

And here is a perfect example of what you DON'T want.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Polari...531792?hash=item361630d050:g:wpsAAOSw~o5aXwAi

Note the great similarities in size, shape and connectors, but there is the distinct lack of "SH-775" shown on the back fin, the country of origin is "China" and the bottom plate is black, not silver. I have learned that all SH-775 units have a silver plate on the bottom. I don't remember if it's stainless or aluminum, but it's silver, not black.

.

 

[Gorminrider]

Hey Folks,

I'm trying to track down a battery drain symptom on my GS650E. I'm trying to test the diodes on the R/R connectors as per the Test Phase C on Stator pages but would like to clarify this note:

NOTE:this test will only work on original R/R's or those using a Shunt-type design. Try performing the Quick Test if you haven't already.

I have this R/R but would like to check if they are original shunt type? Testing the points on the RR, I do not get any readings on my multimeter which could mean the R/R has failed? Although a 10 mile trip warms it up which means there is some current going through?

Any advice is much appreciated.

from your link:

[TABLE="class: vi-centerclass"]
[TR]
[TD="align: centervertical-align"] Have one to sell? Sell now
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

[h=1]Details about RICKS 1981-1982 Suzuki GS650E REGULATOR / RECTIFIER 10-202[/h]
[TABLE="class: vi-ebp2-logo-tbl, width: 100%"]
[TR]
[/TR]
[TR]
[/TR]
[TR]

[/TR]
[/TABLE]












actually Rick's Motorsports shows THIS for that number
Product ID: 10-202

(Enlarge)

[h=1]OEM Style Suzuki Rectifier Regulator 10_202[/h]
OEM Style Suzuki Rectifier-Regulator





so while it's likely a shunt type, it's already iffy commenting on what you really have there,

 

[Downs]

I'm in the US so not sure how accessible Polaris or Seadoo parts are "down under". I was able to source a salvage SH775 (with stamp and all that) from a wrecked Polaris Side by Side on ebay for 45 dollars. I picked up the weatherproof connector kit as well. Wiring stator to this unit then going to battery with either an automotive breaker or 30A fuse (and properly sized wiring) will greatly simplify the wiring of the charging system on the bike. I'm glad I did mine. Cruising I get a steady 14.4 volts at my 12v accessory outlet.

IMO unless the SH775 from a salvage unit is outrageously expensive in Aus I don't see the point of putting a stock style charging system back into the bike. The costs should be similar and the 775 is a superior unit to the the stock system.

 

[suziscrambler]

UPDATE: The RR is definitely draining the battery. Diode tests show no readings except for one yellow connector. I suspect this is what is making the RR very hot, (even the wires are hot connecting to the stator).

First of all, thank you all for the helpful info. I almost bought THIS Chinese knock off because I didn't expect R/Rs to be quiet an investment

Downs, you're right about the stock OEM RR. I asked a few wreckers around here (Salvage parts) and they're asking $90AUD for a used one! I'm still yet to source one cheaply! Does anyone happen to have a spare they can ship ? I am happy to pay for it

 

[tom203]

If you don't go the series route...look for the Shindengen brand .r/r used on many hondas starting in late 1970's. Good quality,hard to kill, and should be easy to find used . Look for markings like SH-232 ., but there are many similar ones. No need to spend more than $25 us .

 

[tom203]

Look for something like this....billions were made! I used one on my bike for 3 years.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/79-83-Hond...ash=item43f2ce40b3:g:SHwAAOSwnQhXoick&vxp=mtr

 

[hannibal]

Seems odd that at least one set of three diode pairs didn't show OK, but who knows. It's challenging to find a true series r/r even here. The polaris p/n is 4012941 used on a bunch of their Atvs... these critters are often wrecked, so you might find a used one in a gully or salvage yard. Made by Shindengen, this model r/r is very durable.. I would expect genuine used ones to be fine..BUT beware, imitations are everywhere. It will be stamped with that p/n and SH-775 a (or b)

Did you see this?
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?191795-GS-Stator&p=1630965#post1630965

I've only seen the Polaris unit (4012941) marked with SH755BA. Shindengen also supplies Seadoo with a similar (the same?) R/R with a Seadoo part number of 710001103. The Seadoo part is always marked AA.

 

[suziscrambler]

UPDATE: So I managed to source a RR from a 2004 Suzuki GS500, I'm assuming it is a Shindengen brand. See attached.

I do have a question about testing the diodes on the RR as per Stator Pages:

"Disconnect the R/R from the bike. Switch the multimeter to the diode test position. Connect the RED multimeter lead to the RED positive output wire of the R/R. Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to one of the yellow wires. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires."

I do not get a reading. This source from Electro Sport suggests it should read 'OL' or infinite resistance. I see a contradiction here as Stator pages suggests it should read 1.5 volts on all three terminals? Can someone please clarify?

Hope that makes sense.

I just need to swap the old male connector to the new RR (current one is female). I'll report back once I get the opportunity. Thank you so far in being this far with me!

 

[Downs]

Looks like another shunt type regulator going off the Sheingden page

http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/electro/reg.html

Can't help you on testing question though Electrical work is one of my weak points.

 

[Guest]

It really doesn't matter. A shunt R/R of any type is going to cause you problems. They are all archaic in the way they work. If you are trying to solve your electrical problems a Series R/R is what you need to be looking at. Shindengen made hundreds of thousands of shunt R/R's. They were better than most but the manufacturers were looking for cheap components, not something that would age well with the electrical system over time.

 

[tom203]

Have a look here...skip test steps 1 and 2 because your r/r does not use a sense wire. Get yourself a simple diode and see how your meter responds to reversing a meter's test leads. Keep hunting for a used SH-775, as it is superior to any shunt unit

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A22

 

[suziscrambler]

UPDATE:

So I fitted a Shindengen GS500 2004 RR and it seems to be holding charge fine. I haven't done a full resistance test on the leads as well as a voltage drop test but I can see from a test at the battery terminals running at:

Ignition off: 12.9
Idle with lights: 13.2

Any revs above 4,000rpm, the voltage is at a ceiling of 14.1 and sometimes will drop to 13.7v. The RR does run very hot which I have read in previous threads this is normal. I am thinking of fitting a 8cmx8cm computer fan on the RR, or relocate it to the airbox if there is room. What do you think?

Thanks for all your helpful input. I am happy how the bike runs now and I don't have to worry about being stranded!

 

[suziscrambler]

Have a look here...skip test steps 1 and 2 because your r/r does not use a sense wire. Get yourself a simple diode and see how your meter responds to reversing a meter's test leads. Keep hunting for a used SH-775, as it is superior to any shunt unit

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A22

Thanks Tom, this helped a lot and cleared my confusion.

 

[Gorminrider]

It really doesn't matter. A shunt R/R of any type is going to cause you problems. They are all archaic in the way they work. If you are trying to solve your electrical problems a Series R/R is what you need to be looking at. Shindengen made hundreds of thousands of shunt R/R's. They were better than most but the manufacturers were looking for cheap components, not something that would age well with the electrical system over time.

gee, that doesn't say much for Suzuki does it? Maybe I better sell mine and buy a Triumph or a Harley.

They are all archaic in the way they work

not sure exactly what you mean but opening and closing a coil as regulation is pretty old too .