I've f%$#& had it with brakes

[posplayr]

Anderson is on the deadbeat list

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=85641

I thought the same thing. Happened to get extremely lucky (hell, had to tear through my history because I couldn't find it through searching again!). There's two possibilities:

http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/index.php?crn=1&rn=96568&action=show_detail

and

http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/index.php?crn=1&rn=96568&action=show_detail

If the one is labeled correctly then the one without the #1 designation should be the correct part. I've sent a request to them to get clarification and I'll post again once I get a response.

I'd like to add that every single tip in this article is fantastic. I had gone through all of them (except drowning the system... ?) and came to the same conclusion: the axle pin with the bushing is the problem. I'm currently working towards a high-density elastomer replacement for that bushing for better performance.

Thanks everyone! You all rock!

Gryyphyn, out.ray:

 

[bwringer]

I have been through similar agonies.

I finally figured out that air was getting in through the low-quality crush washers from the local cycle shoppe. They were selling these dangerous pieces of junk for $1 each.

I ordered up a batch of 100 crush washers from Spiegler (a quarter each at the time; dunno what they would charge nowadays), and the problem was solved on the first try. A nice even "squisssssshhh" when I tightened the banjo bolt, and nary a problem since.

You can also get good crush washers from Dennis Kirk:

Aluminum (my preference, since I don't wash my bikes very often...):
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...e=&catId=&productId=pH19438&leafCatId=&mmyId=

Copper:
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...e=&catId=&productId=p193395&leafCatId=&mmyId=

The local cycle shoppe was also selling the junkiest, most hateful banjo bolts I've ever seen. I ended up cleaning up the stock banjos and using them.

 

[Nessism]

As a recap of sorts to this thread, the main problem with Jeff’s brakes turned out to be the crappy K&L aftermarket caliper piston seals were not allowing the pistons to properly self align – seals were binding the pistons and forcing the pistons to sit too far from the disc. Chef Bill figured out the problem at Salty Monk’s (Dan’s) Southwest Rally last spring. Last I heard Jeff replaced the seals with OE caliper seals and his brakes are okay now.

This particular model of brake caliper is prone to wear on the pins (which are expensive) and inside the caliper hanger bore, which is a discontinued part. Many times this wear goes unknown to the user but it can show with the same symptoms as described here; a spongy feeling brake lever. My 1000S brakes had the characteristic wear so I bought some low mileage 1100E calipers (for the hanger bracket) and some new pins off ebay for a good price. The brakes now work as they should.

Bottom line is to say away from K&L brake system parts and grease those caliper sliding pins before they cause expensive/discontinued parts to wear.

 

[J_C]

Actually, I haven't replaced the seals yet, but that was in fact the problem. For some reason the piston was just never able to reach the rotor... always bound up.

Bill and Ed and I ended up taking the caliper off in the middle of the damn forest. Luckily someone had some extra brake fluid. Bill had a large metal stake and a rock and I guess it scared the piston into complying Actually, if I recall correctly, we just kept pumping until the piston came out a smidgeon, and then we put it back on the caliper and continued to bleed and pump until the brake pad met the caliper. It didn't retract back to the bad spot so we were aok for the rest of the week

 

[Guest]

Actually, I haven't replaced the seals yet, but that was in fact the problem. For some reason the piston was just never able to reach the rotor... always bound up.

Bill and Ed and I ended up taking the caliper off in the middle of the damn forest. Luckily someone had some extra brake fluid. Bill had a large metal stake and a rock and I guess it scared the piston into complying Actually, if I recall correctly, we just kept pumping until the piston came out a smidgeon, and then we put it back on the caliper and continued to bleed and pump until the brake pad met the caliper. It didn't retract back to the bad spot so we were aok for the rest of the week

AAARRRGGGHHHHHH!!!!!

 

[J_C]

Yeah I also forgot to mention the amount of brake fluid that ended up on Bill's pants. Sorry bill

 

[Guest]

Yeah I also forgot to mention the amount of brake fluid that ended up on Bill's pants. Sorry bill

No worries. If my clothes didn't have some sort of stain my wife may be happy with me. :-#

 

[gryyphyn]

What ?bushing? are you referring to? There is one model of GS caliper where the sliding pins have a plastic collar around the middle, but the type mentioned in this thread do not.

You're right, I'm not. The calipers look similar but mine are off an 80GL. I did find the bushings though, after I ordered the replacement pin and *it didn't have them*. It's stock zook parts, straight from the factory, but they don't include the bushings. Had to make the (terrible) parts guy search other years with the same brakes to find they only listed it as a separate bushing on the 82GL.

Ordered 4 of the things. I'm *not* going through that again.

I'll post the part number later for reference if anyone is interested. If anyone has access to fiche it's the 80-82 GL, caliper axle #2 and 'bushing, caliper', listed as pt. 11 on the fiche.

Again, thanks to everyone for all the great advice. If anyone is in the area I'll (hopefully) be at the first get-together in Idaho in March. Can't remember the location, will post it if I can find the info. Would be great to meet some of the other members.

Gryyphyn, out.