7
7981GS
Guest
Simply amazing work on that headlight bucket! 
What did you use to make it so close to chrome?
Daniel
What did you use to make it so close to chrome?
Daniel
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F
Flyboy
Guest
Stripped the rear fender for cleaning and sprucing up.
There are a few issues with it, but nothing too serious, just a few places where the wiring ollm or something has rubbed grooves it over the years.
Again, some polyester filler and elbow grease should have it sorted.
Rubbing against the inner fender
both the fiberglass and filler can dry over the week, and I will sand it smooth next weekend.
Will see what I can do about saving the warning lable.
Lots of scatches, will get to it with some toothpaste, should come out like new.
Thats all for now folks.
There are a few issues with it, but nothing too serious, just a few places where the wiring ollm or something has rubbed grooves it over the years.
Again, some polyester filler and elbow grease should have it sorted.
Rubbing against the inner fender
both the fiberglass and filler can dry over the week, and I will sand it smooth next weekend.
Will see what I can do about saving the warning lable.
Lots of scatches, will get to it with some toothpaste, should come out like new.
Thats all for now folks.
F
Flyboy
Guest
Thanks Daniel, I think it just the light, nothing special there, just your cheap and nasty, garden variety gloss black. 
G
Guest
Guest
Looking good Flyboy. Your project has given me some great ideas and knowledge to boot. Keep it coming!
Sci85
Sci85
F
Flyboy
Guest
Thanks for the kind words Sci, appriciate you tagging along for the ride.
G
Guest
Guest
Awesome work Stan! You should have no fears about the quality job you'll end up with, every bit you're doing is turning out top notch
And yes, fibreglassing is a royal PITA. While I'm happy with the end result of my tail piece, I think I would've preferred working with some steel or aluminium...
And yes, fibreglassing is a royal PITA. While I'm happy with the end result of my tail piece, I think I would've preferred working with some steel or aluminium...
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
If you have a hobby shop nearby that tailors to the rocketry, R/C, or plastic scale models, check out a product called "miro-balloons". They are mini Styrofoam beads that are mixed with epoxy and make it like a super strong sand-able Bond. That will help filling the minor imperfections once the fiberglass cures. I use that to fill the emblem holes in my side covers.
F
Flyboy
Guest
Hahaha. HD, I know micro balloons well, used to use it when I was building and flying rdio control aircraft.
We use it in full size home built aircraft as well, because of the weight saving, it is light as a feather.
Jeeeez, now you bring back memories, I have not used that stuff in years.
We use it in full size home built aircraft as well, because of the weight saving, it is light as a feather.
Jeeeez, now you bring back memories, I have not used that stuff in years.
G
Guest
Guest
that's all looking very good fly!
you know i had the exact same dillemma - first had the seat lock plated silver, then decided it looked better in black to match the frame
you know i had the exact same dillemma - first had the seat lock plated silver, then decided it looked better in black to match the frame
F
Flyboy
Guest
Yeah Psy, I think so too, it wasn't planned that way, it just landed up in the bag of hardware that went off to electro plating.
F
Flyboy
Guest
Got some more done this weekend.
Got all the nicks in the rear fender filled in.
Sanded it all down until it was all smooth, had to go over it three times before I was happy I had got everything.
Got primer down
and colour
as smooth as a new born babies butt
Also stripped and painted the brackets that go inside and on the rear fender.
Got all the nicks in the rear fender filled in.
Sanded it all down until it was all smooth, had to go over it three times before I was happy I had got everything.
Got primer down
and colour
as smooth as a new born babies butt
Also stripped and painted the brackets that go inside and on the rear fender.
F
Flyboy
Guest
Also managed to get the fiberglass repairs to te tail piece sanded down, now that was soul destroying, damn that resin sets as hard as granite.
Also stripped down the rear turn signal brackets, but outta paint, so they will have to wait now.
Also sent Ashley at Boulavrd Suzuki an email to take advantage of the big three day sale to get all the bits I need, well most of them.
Hopefully she will be kind and in the spirit of giving during this season will pick up the shipping tab for me, fingers crossed, i did hint and Lord knows, the order is big enough, I just need to find some way of breaking it to the better half that we are going to be on Govt. issue brown bread and water for the most of the new year.....:-\\\
Also stripped down the rear turn signal brackets, but outta paint, so they will have to wait now.
Also sent Ashley at Boulavrd Suzuki an email to take advantage of the big three day sale to get all the bits I need, well most of them.
Hopefully she will be kind and in the spirit of giving during this season will pick up the shipping tab for me, fingers crossed, i did hint and Lord knows, the order is big enough, I just need to find some way of breaking it to the better half that we are going to be on Govt. issue brown bread and water for the most of the new year.....
:-\\\
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S
SVSooke
Guest
Fiberglass?Try plastic welding,sounds harder than it is.Soldering iron and some plastic bits had Old Yellers lowers good as new in 1/2 hr.If the part is ABS the ABS slurry method is the way to go.
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F
Flyboy
Guest
Greg, I know, the plan was to patch with some ABS slurry, but then it seemed like too much of a mission to find some sort of a source for ABS to make it up, so went with the fiberglass.
I am actually a real lazy bugger at the best of times.
I am actually a real lazy bugger at the best of times.
If not, have Her send them my way to be included with the rest of your things.
F
Flyboy
Guest
Indeed I will Dale, ops normal, just saw her mention to Psyguy, I think it was to drop her a mail, and she would discount the shipping overseas maybe even do it gratis, depending on location, just thought, if that is the case, could save 70 - 80 bucks, no harm in asking, think she would take it kindly if we shipped the stuff at your place to her to include in the package.....
G
Guest
Guest
Nice work Stan! That rear guard is looking smoooooth... as for the tail piece, being patient and doing that prep work will make you very happy with the end product.
G
GateKeeper
Guest
Hey Flyboy....what paint did you use for the rear fender ? was it something specific ?
and is it a metal fender, or plastic, I guess that is why I am asking, cause I have some plastic parts I want to paint but not sure what to use, so looking for some insight
and is it a metal fender, or plastic, I guess that is why I am asking, cause I have some plastic parts I want to paint but not sure what to use, so looking for some insight
G
Guest
Guest
I just need to find some way of breaking it to the better half that we are going to be on Govt. issue brown bread and water for the most of the new year.....
That's the spirit of a true bike restaurateur !
F
Flyboy
Guest
Thanks Pete, we try buddy, we try, but just a little inside info, that tail is as good as it gets, paint is going on there, no doubt my guide coat will have a few surprises and have me back with sanding block in hand, which is not half as much fun as .........never mind, Oi, what you doing here anyway, havn't you got a bike to ride?
Sod off now, shoooo, go ride that nice bike of yours, out, shooo, out, out out.
GK, nothing special there, just your common garden variety gloss black, it is a plastic mudguard, ABS, I imagine, same as yours.
I have been mucking about with seeing best how to change the sheen of the various black paints, until now we were pretty much stuck with Matt Black, Satin Black (best invention known to man) and Gloss Black.
Now as anyone who has done some cleaning up of motorcycles knows, none of the above match the natural black colour of the Suzuki plastics, it is somewhere inbetween Gloss and Satin, to me, it is closer to gloss black but with a touch of the sheen and shine removed, not quite as toned down as satin black though.
So I came up with a brain wave, or brain fart, depending on how you look at it. Why not introduce the very same thing that takes the sheen and shine off your car's paint, scratches, see, it's all about light and how it hits the paint, scratches scatter the light in all directions and remove the high shine, but not so much so that it dulls right down. Just look at the diffirence in shine between a car that has just been washed, and one that has been detailed, only diffirence is, the one that has been detailed has had the swirl marks and scratches removed.
So instead od getting the base super smooth, as normal, I sanded with 220 grit paper just before laying down the paint, to introduce fine scratches, then painted. It leaves it a little textured, but not so much that it is not acceptable, it is quite acceptable, but just breaks the high shine of the gloss black, and is about as close to damnit is to a swear word as you will get to the OEM plastic look.Either that or you can have it specially mixed up for big money, I'm cheap.
Jeez, I almost sounded clever there for a minute, but nothing the paint guys havn't known for years, I bet.
Psy, What can I say, my female hormones raise their ugly head when it comes to retail therapy in a bike shop, tool store or pilot supplies shop.
Sod off now, shoooo, go ride that nice bike of yours, out, shooo, out, out out.
GK, nothing special there, just your common garden variety gloss black, it is a plastic mudguard, ABS, I imagine, same as yours.
I have been mucking about with seeing best how to change the sheen of the various black paints, until now we were pretty much stuck with Matt Black, Satin Black (best invention known to man) and Gloss Black.
Now as anyone who has done some cleaning up of motorcycles knows, none of the above match the natural black colour of the Suzuki plastics, it is somewhere inbetween Gloss and Satin, to me, it is closer to gloss black but with a touch of the sheen and shine removed, not quite as toned down as satin black though.
So I came up with a brain wave, or brain fart, depending on how you look at it. Why not introduce the very same thing that takes the sheen and shine off your car's paint, scratches, see, it's all about light and how it hits the paint, scratches scatter the light in all directions and remove the high shine, but not so much so that it dulls right down. Just look at the diffirence in shine between a car that has just been washed, and one that has been detailed, only diffirence is, the one that has been detailed has had the swirl marks and scratches removed.
So instead od getting the base super smooth, as normal, I sanded with 220 grit paper just before laying down the paint, to introduce fine scratches, then painted. It leaves it a little textured, but not so much that it is not acceptable, it is quite acceptable, but just breaks the high shine of the gloss black, and is about as close to damnit is to a swear word as you will get to the OEM plastic look.Either that or you can have it specially mixed up for big money, I'm cheap.
Jeez, I almost sounded clever there for a minute, but nothing the paint guys havn't known for years, I bet.
Psy, What can I say, my female hormones raise their ugly head when it comes to retail therapy in a bike shop, tool store or pilot supplies shop.
