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Jetting FYI on a 1980 GS1000E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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G

Guest

Guest
Just got done doing pods, V&H 4into1 on a 1980 1000. K&N pods, V&H exhaust and set the valves to .07mm +/-, rebuilt carbs

155 jets on the center cylinders
152.5 on the outer cylinders
Two small washer shims on all 4 needles
Starts and idles well with the A/F screws out about 2 1/2 turns on each carb
Set idle around 1,300rpm when warm

What I got so far:
Pulls very hard from 5,000rpm to redline (actually it pulls surprisingly hard)
Topped out at 130mph according to the speedo, (I'll verify using a gps this weekend)
17/52 sprockets
Has some lag under 4.000rpm. This is probably because I have not opened up the vacuum ports on the needle slides.
Spark plugs look good, nice cardboard color, not wet and far from white.

****I live in Denver Colorado****

I'm just trying to give a baseline to people. My settings are far from perfect, but I will continue until it is.

GS1000.jpg
 
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Where did you put the washers on the needles. Hope you realize that washers under the clip do nothing.
 
I'm wondering about that 0.007mm valve clearance. :-k

The minimum is 0.030mm.

I'm guessing there is either an extra zero or that's in inches, which would make the clearance too large.

.
 
Steve said:
I'm wondering about that 0.007mm valve clearance. :-k

The minimum is 0.030mm.

I'm guessing there is either an extra zero or that's in inches, which would make the clearance too large.

.
Click to expand...

Correct, I got happy with the zeros. I?ll correct. The valves are on the high gap side.
 
Trust me gentlemen, I?m not claiming superior knowledge or skills.
Just trying to let people know what I?m doing and the results.
I did save the factory air box and jets. Just in case. :cool:
 
winmag4582001 said:
Shimmed needles up/higher.
Click to expand...

To lift the needle higher you need to reduce the thickness of the plastic spacer on top of the clip. Putting washers under the clip doesn't lift the needle. Check the rebuild tutorial linked in my signature for some photos of what I'm referring too as necessary.
 
Nessism said:
To lift the needle higher you need to reduce the thickness of the plastic spacer on top of the clip. Putting washers under the clip doesn't lift the needle. Check the rebuild tutorial linked in my signature for some photos of what I'm referring too as necessary.
Click to expand...

Thank you! That means I definitely did it wrong then. Could be the cause of the sluggish mid/low range.

The needles in my carbs have the e-clip with a little spring on top and the assembly is held in by a plastic cap and snap ring. I just assumed by adding washers under the e-clip would raise them. I have a bunch of fully adjustable K56 needles laying around but they would not work with the carbs. Looks like I got a project this morning. LOL
 
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winmag4582001 said:
Thank you! That means I definitely did it wrong then. Could be the cause of the sluggish mid/low range.

The needles in my carbs have the e-clip with a little spring on top and the assembly is held in by a plastic cap and snap ring. I just assumed by adding washers under the e-clip would raise them. I have a bunch of fully adjustable K56 needles laying around but they would not work with the carbs. Looks like I got a project this morning. LOL
Click to expand...

Unless you have a special set of BS32's the spring goes under the clip, not on top. Again, check the carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature, towards the back. That's where the info about the spacer and spring is at.
 
Nessism said:
Unless you have a special set of BS32's the spring goes under the clip, not on top. Again, check the carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature, towards the back. That's where the info about the spacer and spring is at.
Click to expand...

Awesome info! One of the PO’s obviously assembled it wrong. I should have checked that rather than assume it was correct. Thank you again!




******nevermind. I’m a moron. LOL
 
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winmag4582001 said:
Awesome info! One of the PO?s obviously assembled it wrong. I should have checked that rather than assume it was correct. Thank you again!




******nevermind. I?m a moron. LOL
Click to expand...

so, just finished raising the needles the proper way. Vastly improved midrange, but feels like I could definitely go some more. The factory little plastic donut on top of the needle measured 2.5mm, I took it to 1.3mm (raised). Thinking I?ll put it at 1mm and call it a day.

HUGE Thank You to NESSISM. This is exactly how forums work.
 
Any hesitation you have is very unlikely to be due to not drilling the slides... I've tried it both ways & if jetted right it doesn't really make an appreciable difference.

Your settings sound somewhat similar to what I ran on my 1000G when I had pods on it. I have it written down somewhere I suspect. I'm fairly sure I ended up going up one size on the pilots, I'm at sea level though. I did not need to run different inner to outer jets.... I've heard of it but I've not met anyone that has had to go that route.

The Dynajet kit has some small air corrector bushes that are inserted into the carbs. One thing a lot of people may not know is the 1100E carbs (16v engine) have an air corrector bush approx the same size as the dynajet restrictor so can be a useful starting point. The restrictor is just a little brass push that you push into the hole with some loctite.


:)
 
salty_monk said:
Any hesitation you have is very unlikely to be due to not drilling the slides... I've tried it both ways & if jetted right it doesn't really make an appreciable difference.

Your settings sound somewhat similar to what I ran on my 1000G when I had pods on it. I have it written down somewhere I suspect. I'm fairly sure I ended up going up one size on the pilots, I'm at sea level though. I did not need to run different inner to outer jets.... I've heard of it but I've not met anyone that has had to go that route.

The Dynajet kit has some small air corrector bushes that are inserted into the carbs. One thing a lot of people may not know is the 1100E carbs (16v engine) have an air corrector bush approx the same size as the dynajet restrictor so can be a useful starting point. The restrictor is just a little brass push that you push into the hole with some loctite.


:)
Click to expand...

Guess I'm not following.... A insert that you push into the port for the diaphragm or insert for the carb throat?

I should also note that the speedometer is way off. I changed gears from the factory ratio of 18/50 to 17/52 (530 chain) so my estimate of 130mph the other day is NOT true. Looks like the speedo is at least 15mph off. In 5th gear at 7800rpm the speedo was bouncing from 125-130 so I just estimated on the high side, not considering the gears. Sorry.
 
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winmag4582001 said:
I should also note that the speedometer is way off. I changed gears from the factory ratio of 18/50 to 17/52 (530 chain) so my estimate of 130mph the other day is NOT true. Looks like the speedo is at least 15mph off. In 5th gear at 7800rpm the speedo was bouncing from 125-130 so I just estimated on the high side, not considering the gears. Sorry.
Click to expand...

You can change the sprocket ratios to ANYTHING you want, it won't affect the speedo reading. :-k

Your speedometer gets information from the front tire. Only three things might affect accuracy. 1. Improper size tire. Your best results will be with a 100/90-19. 2. Improper drive gear at the axle. Most GSes have a 19" front tire, and will have the same ratio. A few models had an 18" tire, a couple more models had a 16" tire. Use of any of those would slow down the speedo, not make it read faster. 3. The speedo unit itself. If it's a stock unit, it should not be a problem. However, if an aftermarket unit has been installed, there is no telling whether a correct ratio unit was installed. A speedo should not bounce. Try lubing the cable. If that does not help the bounce, you might have to open up the speedo so you can clean and lube it.

.
 
These aren't my carbs (think these are off an XS650 but it's the same carb) but you can see the air corrector jets here.. the bigger one on the left can be unscrewed and changed out, the smaller one on the right is fixed & the Dynajet kit for the 1980 GS1000 comes with a small brass bush that pushes in there & restricts the airflow...

full
 
Steve said:
You can change the sprocket ratios to ANYTHING you want, it won't affect the speedo reading. :-k

Your speedometer gets information from the front tire. Only three things might affect accuracy. 1. Improper size tire. Your best results will be with a 100/90-19. 2. Improper drive gear at the axle. Most GSes have a 19" front tire, and will have the same ratio. A few models had an 18" tire, a couple more models had a 16" tire. Use of any of those would slow down the speedo, not make it read faster. 3. The speedo unit itself. If it's a stock unit, it should not be a problem. However, if an aftermarket unit has been installed, there is no telling whether a correct ratio unit was installed. A speedo should not bounce. Try lubing the cable. If that does not help the bounce, you might have to open up the speedo so you can clean and lube it.

.
Click to expand...

Again, a mistake on my part. In the rush to get it done, I only screwed it on the back of the speedo about 1 thread.
 
I
salty_monk said:
These aren't my carbs (think these are off an XS650 but it's the same carb) but you can see the air corrector jets here.. the bigger one on the left can be unscrewed and changed out, the smaller one on the right is fixed & the Dynajet kit for the 1980 GS1000 comes with a small brass bush that pushes in there & restricts the airflow...

full
Click to expand...


Ok, so they are blocking the lower right port. I may give that a quick try and see what it does. I installed new factory size little jets.
 
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