JohnnyL's 1980 GS550L Cafe Build

[JohnnyL]

If you want to keep the piggyback look you might consider sending those ones off to CL Moto.
He has several levels of refurbishing them into quality shocks. Different springs, valves and oil.
http://chrislivengood.net/wp/clmototech/

Another option would be to check out Hagon USA.
MANY options.
http://hagonshocksusa.com/

I think I might send them off to CL Moto and have them rebuilt. Seems like a good option. Those Hagons are pricey!

As far as the Sonic Springs go, how do I know what spring rate I would need? I'm 5'9" and 165 lbs. There are four options.

 

[93Bandit]

I know next to nothing about tuning suspension, but according to Sonic Springs website, you'll need .90kg/mm based off a few assumptions I put into their calculator. Here's a link http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/calculate_spring_rate.php#calculate

 

[Spyder]

Thanks Spyder. Where in NW Indiana are you from? I grew up in Valpo.

I am in the Knox area. Not too far from Valpo, maybe 25 miles?

 

[JohnnyL]

So I figured out where a good chunk of the money went. LOL....I pieced together the handlebars today. I am pretty happy with how they look. For those interested in where to purchase any of these parts, here's a list.

CRG Arrow Bar End Mirrors: $216 (for two) Here
Rizoma Sguardo Bar End Turn Signals: $154 (for two) Here
Biltwell Chocolate Thruster Grips: $18 (for two) Here
Biltwell Aluminum "Whiskey" Throttle: $100 Here
K&S Start/Stop Switch: $32 Here
K&S Universal Street Handlebar Control Switch: $80 Here
Aluminum Shorty Levers: $41.30 Here
Woodcraft Clip-Ons: $170 Here

 

[JohnnyL]

I think I'm going to consider the frame ready for sandblasting and powder coating. I'm wanting to drop it off to the powder coater before Christmas so maybe they can get to it while I'm gone on Christmas break.

I decided to fabricate a little mudguard for the rear tire since I won't be running a rear fender. This will also give a place to tuck some wires and the fuse box. I also got the battery box made and there is also room under the seat hump for the starter solenoid. The new Compu-Fire reg/rec will be mounted on the underside of the seat pan where it will get plenty of air flow.

I have purchased everything I need to get this bike done except for the stainless steel braided brake lines and I can't purchase those until I figure out what lengths and fittings I will need. The only thing I am waiting to receive is the new EBC front brake rotor.

I still haven't figured out what I am doing with the gas tank. Ideally, I'd like to find someone that can dish the sides of the tank for me. This requires someone with a hell of a lot more talent than I have and someone who can tig weld. I haven't decided if I am going to attempt to paint the tank myself or have a guy down the street from me that paints IndyCar helmets for a lot of the drivers. He said he would paint it for about $500 but he doesn't do any bodywork. I would have to give him the tank ready to paint. The front fender will be cut down to about 12" in length and painted with the tank.

I hope you all have a Happy Holiday and I will be back to post more when I get the frame, wheels and misc. back from powder coating. In the meantime, I may post some pics of the brake calipers. I plan on stripping them down, painting them and then rebuilding them.

 

[JohnnyL]

I dropped off the frame, wheels and some other bits with Indy Powder Coating today. They said it will be 3-4 weeks before it?s done. In the meantime, Bwringer is going to be helping me with getting the wiring ready so I can hit the ground running once the frame is back. Fedex brought me my Firestone vintage tires today and I got notification that the front rotor will ship Monday. I really wish EBC made a rear rotor to match.

 

[JohnnyL]

I hope everyone had a good Christmas! I was able to sneak out to the shop for a bit and get the brake calipers stripped down and painted. I first painted the calipers with high temp primer and then painted them silver. After painting them silver, I cut a Suzuki logo out of mask and then painted the calipers red. Came out pretty good!

 

[Spyder]

I'm not a big fan of red, but you did a REALLY nice job on those.

 

[JohnnyL]

I'm not a big fan of red, but you did a REALLY nice job on those.

Yeah...I'm not real sure I like the red either but I'm going to run with it. I'm hoping it contrasts nicely with the black mags. I was hoping for a brighter red though.

I was able to get the rear caliper put back together but I need to order a new rebuild kit for the front. Apparently, I ordered a rebuild kit for a 1981 and there is a difference between the 80 and 81.

 

[JohnnyL]

Brakes calipers are all rebuilt. Headers are wrapped. Gas tank is at the bodyshop having minor dents repaired and tank badge recesses filled. Frame and wheels are still at the powder coater. Hopefully I will be picking the frame and wheels up from Indy Powder Coating later this week. The tank will be prepped for paint later this week and then I will be dropping it off to Corby Concepts to get painted.

This waiting for the frame at the powder coater is killing me. I can't wait to start rebuilding this thing!

 

[JohnnyL]

Damn I hate 12V wiring. I can wire a house all day long. Motorcycle, vehicle....it's like a different language to me. Thank God Brian Wringer is going to help me. I've drawn up a schematic for when Brian and I meet to discuss this mess.

I did decide to purchase a Motogadget M-Unit Blue and a M-Button to simplify this and hopefully cut down on visible wires. The Motogadget will also enable me to customize some things. Pretty amazing system.

 

[Spyder]

It really does LOOK a lot more complicated than it really is. Starting fresh, and making your own loom is a bit time consuming, but in the end it will look, and function so much better than stock. Plus you will lose about 5 pounds of wire. I would love to do this to mine when I pull it back out of the mothballs.

 

[JohnnyL]

Picked up the frame and bits from the powder coater today! Let the rebuild begin! Unfortunately the wheels are still being powder coated and won't be done until early next week. They were having a problem with off gassing on the wheels.

 

[bwringer]

That M-Unit Bluetooth widget is super-duper-slick. I hadn't heard of such wizardry before John sent me a link. I look forward to seeing it firsthand!

With all LED lighting, we'll be able to get away with 18AWG wire almost everywhere. We could easily go smaller, but at a certain point the wire gets a little more fragile and harder to work with.

 

[steve murdoch]

Powder coating looks great.
I have a CBX frame and bits that need some attention. If you don't mind what did it cost for the parts in the pics.
Feel free to send me a p.m. if you aren't comfortable posting it.

 

[JohnnyL]

Powder coating looks great.
I have a CBX frame and bits that need some attention. If you don't mind what did it cost for the parts in the pics.
Feel free to send me a p.m. if you aren't comfortable posting it.

It was pricey and I had the best company I know if do it. Indy Powder Coating does a lot of IndyCar stuff. They do a lot of stuff for Dallara Chassis. They mask off all the areas that shouldn't get powder coat. ie. steering stem, all threaded holes, places where a bolt could crack the powder coat etc. I had the wheels and forks done in gloss black and the frame and bits satin black.

Frame=$160
Swing Arm=$40
Triple Tree=$15
9 Small Brackets=$45
Battery Cover=$5
Rear Brake Line Cover=$5
Stabilizer Arm=$5
Kickstand=$5
Center Stand=$10
2 Wheels=$120
2 Fork Legs=$75
Sandblasting=$125

 

[JohnnyL]

That M-Unit Bluetooth widget is super-duper-slick. I hadn't heard of such wizardry before John sent me a link. I look forward to seeing it firsthand!

With all LED lighting, we'll be able to get away with 18AWG wire almost everywhere. We could easily go smaller, but at a certain point the wire gets a little more fragile and harder to work with.

I am really excited about this M-Unit. One thing I didn't think about was the placement of the ignition key. Since I made a new triple clamp, there is really no where to put it there. I thought about mounting it somewhere hidden on the chassis but with this bluetooth M-Unit, do I even need a key? The bike automatically locks and sets an alarm when I am out of bluetooth range and automatically unlocks and turns on when I am within the vicinity of the bike.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

... with this bluetooth M-Unit, do I even need a key? The bike automatically locks and sets an alarm when I am out of bluetooth range and automatically unlocks and turns on when I am within the vicinity of the bike.

Just food for thought. Sometimes when I install an update on my phone, my bluetooth connection between my phone and car audio system can get flaky. Consider the possibility of coming out to your bike after updating your phone and not being able to "see" the M-Unit. If there isn't a mechanical/electrical physical key, then what? Maybe It's nothing to worry about. But my mind always goes to "what if". BTW, I love this thread. The work you're doing and having done is fantastic. Looking forward to the completed bike.

 

[JohnnyL]

Just food for thought. Sometimes when I install an update on my phone, my bluetooth connection between my phone and car audio system can get flaky. Consider the possibility of coming out to your bike after updating your phone and not being able to "see" the M-Unit. If there isn't a mechanical/electrical physical key, then what? Maybe It's nothing to worry about. But my mind always goes to "what if". BTW, I love this thread. They work you're doing and having done is fantastic. Looking forward to the completed bike.

I know! I have thought about that. Probably better to have a back-up key system.

 

[JohnnyL]

HUGE question! When I built my son's 69 CL350 Cafe, I laid the engine on it's side on the floor on blankets and lowered the frame over the engine and then bolted it to the chassis. It was so easy that I did it completely by myself. Do you think it is possible to do that with this GS? This engine is SO heavy! I'm scared to death I am going to scratch the powder coat on the frame or the engine paint trying to lift the engine into the chassis on the bike lift.