kz400 igntion points

[Guest]

KZ400, stock. Bike was hard to start so took a look at points and there was next to no gap. Gapped them and bike now starts instantly but...have some arcing going on with the points. Changed condenser to another old one I had and its the same.

On the hiway under full throttle bike starts cutting out between 6,000-7,000K. I have Haynes manual and tried to verify timing but where it says points should start to open on the "F" mark mine have just closed, not sure whats up...thoughts anyone?

 

[Brendan W]

Is this the twin or the four?
Check that the condenser is actually making contact with the points. Sometimes insulating bushes and washers get stacked wrong.
The condenser needs to be parallel with the points. Check the condenser ground as well.
See that the advance rotor is free and not inclined to get stuck fully advanced and make sure it's fully relaxed when you set the points.

 

[rphillips]

Amazing what I learn around here!! KZ400 4 cyl. Never remember seeing or hearing of a Kawasaki 400 4 cyl., Thought Honda exclusive rights to that concept. Thanks for bringing them up.

 

[Guest]

Is this the twin or the four?
Check that the condenser is actually making contact with the points. Sometimes insulating bushes and washers get stacked wrong.
The condenser needs to be parallel with the points. Check the condenser ground as well.
See that the advance rotor is free and not inclined to get stuck fully advanced and make sure it's fully relaxed when you set the points.

Will check into these items. This is the twin model. I realize I was turning engine wrong way when checking timing, will turn the right way and check again

 

[earlfor]

KZ400, stock. Bike was hard to start so took a look at points and there was next to no gap. Gapped them and bike now starts instantly but...have some arcing going on with the points. Changed condenser to another old one I had and its the same.

On the hiway under full throttle bike starts cutting out between 6,000-7,000K. I have Haynes manual and tried to verify timing but where it says points should start to open on the "F" mark mine have just closed, not sure whats up...thoughts anyone?

Adjusting points gap changes ignition timing. You will need to adjust/set points gap and then adjust ignition timing.

I wrote this for a GS four cylinder, but I expect it will be about the same for a KZ twin. (there was big big to do about my referring to a 12 volt bulb with two wires being referred to as a continuity tester, so keep in mind when I say that I am referring to a 12 volt light bulb with two wires attached to it.

Hope this helps. )I wrote this a LONG time ago heh

Here ya go.
Setting Points Gaps and ignition timing.

The points are located under
the round cover on the right end of the crankshaft.

The round 6" plate that both sets of points are mounted on (breaker
plate) is held in place by three screws located at 12, 4 and 8 oclock.
Loosen the 3 screws on the breaker plate. Note that the screw at 12
oclock is in a slot. Rotate the breaker plate until the 12 oclock screw
is centered in the slot. Tighten the three screws.

We will replace the left side set of points first (located at 9 oclock
position) These are the points for cylinders 1 and 4.

Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate crankshaft clockwise until points are at widest
gap. Unscrew hold down screw on point set and remove points. Note the
white wire that goes to the point set and the placement of the insulator.
The insulator must be correct or the points will be grounded out and
will not work. Put the new points onto the breaker plate, set the gap to
14 thousandths, and lightly tighten the hold down screw. Install white wire.
Rotate crankshaft clockwise once again with 19mm wrench until points are at widest
gap. Check that widest gap remains at 14 thousandths. Adjust and
retighten holddown screw if needed.

Rotate crankshaft clockwise until rightside points are at widest gap (for
cylinders 2 and 3) Remove old points and install new points and set gap
at 14 thousandths. Note insulators on black wire installation. Rotate
crankshaft clockwise with 19 mm wrench again stopping at widest gap. Recheck gap
as you did with the left pointset. Adjust and retighten hold down screw
on points if needed.

THE ABOVE COVERS SETTING THE POINTS GAPS




Next is the timing:

Timing for cylinders 1 and 4 (the left set of points)....................
With 19 mm wrench, rotate crankshaft clockwise while looking through the timing
window and align the mark that looks like F1| with the timing mark on
the engine case.
(the line following F1 is the mark (|)

note: some bikes will have a stationary timing mark on the engine case
and some will have a mark on a stationary timing plate that can be seen
through the timing window) If you see no timing mark on the case, and the timing plate
is missing, the location of the case timing mark is the left edge of
the 12 o'clock screw head.

Connect a lights wire lead/clip to the white wire clip on the
left pointset. Clamp light probe tip to ground on the bike or
battery negative terminal.

Turn ignition switch to on (do not attempt to start bike, just switch
ignition to on)

The light should be on.

Loosen the three screws on the breaker plate located at 12, 4 and 8
oclock. Rotate breaker plate until light just flickers out.
Retighten the 12, 4, and 8 oclock screws on the breaker plate.

Unclip light lead from left pointset.



For the Right pointset
Rotate crankshaft clockwise with wrench until you see the timing mark F2| become
aligned with the stationary timing mark on the engine case.
Connect light lead to black wire on right pointset.
The ignition should be switched on and the light should be on.

The right pointset is mounted to a breaker half plate.
You will see that you can loosen the mounting screws on this breaker
half plate and this will allow you to move the right pointset. This will
adjust the timing without changing the points gap. When you rotated the
complete breaker plate for the left pointset to get the light
to flicker out, thats what you did. You adjusted the timing on cylinders
1 and 4 without changing the gap on their pointset.
Unfortunately, the whole breaker plate being rotated moves BOTH sets of
points, so that is why you must set the left side first and that is why
the right side is mounted on its own independent half breaker plate.
SOoooooo.... Smile Loosen the breaker half plate on the right side and
rotate as needed to cause the continuity light to just flicker out.
Tighten the half plate back down when satisfied with the adjustment. Smile

Remove light and HOPEFULLY, start bike..
​