Laid it over gentle, now won't turn over..

[bonanzadave]

I have one of those portable "jumper boxes" that says it is 500 amps that I used for my old truck. Can I use that to rule out the battery or is it too much juice?

Id try it.....

Have you checked all the fuses ?

Did you try to push start it ?

 

[Joel750T]

Just hit it with the jump box, no difference.

I did not try and push start it yet. I have the perfect driveway for it, looks like the stock market last year. Problem is enlisting neighbors to help me push it back up...again. If I try it, do it in second gear?

None of the fuses appear blown. I will retest for conductivity across each blade. Would the starter be on a different fuse than the solenoid?

Given the voltages on the solenoid, along with the loud bang it makes, is that ruled out now as the culprit or is there another test? I guess next thing downstream is the starter? Most of the threads I have been searching seem to have the opposite problem, solenoid not clicking, jumpering them fires the starter. This seems to be about the only problem not covered on BassCliff's treasure trove...

 

[Calvin Blackmore]

Just hit it with the jump box, no difference.

I did not try and push start it yet. I have the perfect driveway for it, looks like the stock market last year. Problem is enlisting neighbors to help me push it back up...again. If I try it, do it in second gear?

None of the fuses appear blown. I will retest for conductivity across each blade. Would the starter be on a different fuse than the solenoid?

Given the voltages on the solenoid, along with the loud bang it makes, is that ruled out now as the culprit or is there another test? I guess next thing downstream is the starter? Most of the threads I have been searching seem to have the opposite problem, solenoid not clicking, jumpering them fires the starter. This seems to be about the only problem not covered on BassCliff's treasure trove...

if it is the starter man what an evil coincidence.

 

[Joel750T]

yeah, something is funny here. Learning a lot about the bike though, and the kind hearted citizens of the internet. Thanks for your patience guys.

Not sure if my troubleshooting logic is correct here, but if the solenoid is working, it should send juice to the starter correct? I put the red probe on the connection bolt on the starter, black on the handlebars (lacking a prehensile tail and all) after verifying that it was a good ground with 12.6 readings from battery with same location. Mashed starter button, and much like Mr Blutarski, i scored a 0.00 on the multimeter. There is not the slightest vibration in the starter when the button is hit. I would think if the starter croaked, I would get something, voltage, a click, a hum, a grind, anything at all?

 

[Joel750T]

Never mind. Something must have been amuk. Reran the test after reviewing the wiring diagram again (thanks BassCliff). Got 12v to starter, grounded to the handlebars with starter pressed, 0 when not.

I guess that means the starter burned up? Any other ideas? Can I go aftermarket if so? Bikebandit says $400 for OEM. Any "replacing the starter tutorials" floating out there?

 

[GSX550]

Just pull the starter and dissassemble it. 2 screws hold the thing together. Pull it apart and clean it up, then reassemble and test it while it is out of the bike. Positive on the post, negative grounded to the body of the starter. Place your boot on top so it doesn't roll away. If the bushes aren't all burnt away, just clean up the contacts and you should be alright.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Take your jump box and put the ground on the engine and Touch the + to the heavy cable that goes from the starter to the solenoid. If the starter doesn't turn ? The starter is dead

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Just one more thought. Sometimes the solenoid doesn't work because it's not properly grounded. Clean the connections and make sure it is grounded to the frame.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Joel750T]

Jumper box has a connection sensor on it so it wouldn't throw a charge to it, but hooked up the backup battery directly and nothing, negative to the footpeg and verified with the meter I had 12.6. I did get some early 4th of July action when I accidentally touched the starter housing with the positive pulling it off.

Can I just undo the two long screws and take the starter apart that way to check these brushes? Any tricks to get at the bottom one??? (No clue what I am doing or looking for by the way with the brushes, but I am sure there is something out there on google). I don't have a spare gasket laying around for the side cover, so if I can get away without it for a spot check inside the starter that would be great.

 

[Calvin Blackmore]

my starter can be removed carbs in but requires the chain tensioner to be removed

i dont think you will need a gasket

guys could the starter clutch be binding here?

 

[Calvin Blackmore]

wow read te manual and im wrong
got to take te cover off

 

[Joel750T]

Hmm, sounds like I may have a different setup where my starter is located? I attached a pic of what I am looking at. There are two long phillips head "bolts" about 5 inches long that appear to be holding the starter itself together (assuming cap to body that may come apart?) The starter itself looks like it would have to be bolted through the side cover where the stator is located? I can't see anywhere else it would be attached. I can get at the top "bolt" pretty easily with a long Phillips head screw driver I think, that other one is buried down in that dugout pretty well.

 

[old_chopper]

Try one more thing before you pull the starter. Take the sheet metal cover off to expose the starter. Take a small hammer and give the starter a few good taps. I have done this numerous times to get a questionable starter working. I guess the brushes arc to the armeture then wont spin the motor. No harm if it doesn't work.

 

[Calvin Blackmore]

Hmm, sounds like I may have a different setup where my starter is located? I attached a pic of what I am looking at. There are two long phillips head "bolts" about 5 inches long that appear to be holding the starter itself together (assuming cap to body that may come apart?) The starter itself looks like it would have to be bolted through the side cover where the stator is located? I can't see anywhere else it would be attached. I can get at the top "bolt" pretty easily with a long Phillips head screw driver I think, that other one is buried down in that dugout pretty well.

um the manual shows it quite well
starter is bolted down with tab off the motors housing

you should look at the procedure for removal there

pg 53 has a top down view

 

[Joel750T]

Perfect, page 53! Didn't realize there were two vertical bolts there. I will have to invest in a pocket mirror to see down there. Thought for sure I would have to pull that side cover to release something in there. Once again, thank you. Feels like yet another 10mm, but I need a short extension. I see now how that tensioner comes into play.

"Remove starter motor cover and starter motor" They must have been trying to save ink

Old_chopper: Wacked at it last night with the socket wrench. My dad had an, err, pacer that needed that "treatment" on a regular basis. I was 8 or 9 and he put a smiley face sticker on the top so I knew right where to wack it in the parking lot so he didn't have to get out.

Also, just posted that I need a starter in the items wanted forum in case anyone like to rebuild starters...

 

[Joel750T]

So, any tricks to getting the starter out? Manual seems to be covering a complete engine dissambly so not sure how much of that I actually have to do? Previous page is pulling oil pumps and following pages talk about flipping the engine over to remove the oil pan... I have the two bolts out that are vertical. It slides back about 1/4 inch and stops. I don't want to start wacking on it if that stator cover needs to come off and something be released. I searched for "remove starter" and couldn't find anything relevant. Experienced suggestions appreciated as always!

 

[blowerbike]

slide it all the way to the right and then lift up(some angle) and out.
the o-ring can cause initial problems when trying to slide the starter to the right.
nothing will fall out and the stator cover does not have to be removed.
carbs on makes it a pain but it can be done.
cable removed and battery disconnected of course.

 

[Joel750T]

Thank you very much. Came out easy as pie. I am a measure twice and cut once kind of person and didn't want to booger anything worse than what I already have. Starter still won't spin by the way when connected to the battery, so looks like I got the right part.

In case anyone is having problems getting it out and reads this post some day, I slid starter inboard, rotated it upside down so the tabls would clear over the case, back end up as high as it would go, rotated clockwise as far as it would go then lifted up the gear end with my finger under it and it popped right out. Did not need to disconnect carbs or cam tensioner or anything else. Thanks everyone.

 

[Calvin Blackmore]

evil evil concidence
glad you stepped though the pain

and did not succumb to the many gs superstars who believe that gutting and complete rebuild is an acceptable notion of troubleshooting

did you break the starter down yet?


I would be careful if i was you
I still think there may be binding int he starter clutch assembly

 

[Joel750T]

Not yet on the starter breakdown. What should I be looking for when I watch out for the starter clutch assembly? Any particular symptoms or things to watch out for?