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Left Side Crankcase Knock

  • Thread starter Thread starter Turtleface
  • Start date Start date
Turtleface said:
Indeed, I'm definitely sending it off to have it rebuilt. Think it'd be worthwhile to go with a billet basket? I'm planning on building a larger (1300cc-ish) motor in the distant future, and I'd like to make things as strong as reasonably possible, and am willing to spend the cash. Falicon? APE? Who's got the strongest rebuild?
Click to expand...
so it would seem you have found the problem
if i were you i would wait until you get the clutch back in before pulling the starter clutch apart.
chances are that it's fine and is more of a hassle to take apart than the clutch (at least in my view it is) anyway keep us informed on the progress of it all
 
Cleaning up the parts today, noticed a few odd things.

2010-02-08163806.jpg


Here's the back of the clutch hub. Three of the springs look to be a smaller diameter than the others, and the larger diameter springs are shimmed with a small washer. All of the larger diameter springs were loose enough to rattle if I shake the hub, as is one of the smaller diameter springs. The other two springs do not move back and forth, but can be easily spun with light finger pressure.

2010-02-08163824.jpg


Inside look ok?

2010-02-08163859.jpg


Inner hub, overhead view.

2010-02-08163928.jpg


Inner hub, teeth. I'm not a fan of the notches that seem to be forming in the teeth, but I'm not familiar with motorcycle clutches, either.

2010-02-08163920.jpg


Close up of teeth.
 
The outer hub looks GREAT other than the loose springs. I would send it to John Pearson at Pearson Racing & have him rebuild it. I have seen the stock hubs in Pro Stock motors before so I don't think a 200 HP street motor would be an issue. A billet hub WOULD be the strongest but if you are going to go that route, with a 1300 cc or more engine, I would go straight cut gears too. I have seen worse looking inner hubs than that one & still used them but a new 1150 inner hub has a steel insert where the splines are & is around 75 bucks. Give me a call & I will read you a list of the parts you will need to build a big motor correctly & make it live. Ray.
 
Sorry for high-jacking this thread, but I can't seem to post new ones? I've just purchased on EPay (sight unseen) a '79 GS750 "project bike" (unfortunately more project than bike).

It starts runs and rides OK, but when it warms up it seems to have what APPEARS to be a rod knock noise at idle? From what I've read on here this is almost impossible due to the roller-bearing setup in the bottom end? Supposedly the usual culprits are the starter clutch and the clutch itself?

The weird behaviors of this noise are that I can make it almost disappear if I lean the bike over to the right; when it's on the sidestand (leaning left) idling the noise is most apparent. I'm wondering if it's the weird cam-endplay issue? I can't hear it when riding but as you slow up you can hear it when you pull the clutch in and when you got to take off its obvious again (riding without helmet in my field) Any ideas where to start - i.e. don't want to pull down block/bottom-end?

Oh .. other thing was when I FIRST started it, it backfired a few times while running so I suspect the plugs/leads are on their last legs too ..
 
so what did you find ?:) if you posted i missed it i have the same problem started during a ride .you can not hear the knock when cold .
 
etype said:
so what did you find ?:) if you posted i missed it i have the same problem started during a ride .you can not hear the knock when cold .
Click to expand...

That's a good question. I still have yet to get my clutch hub back, but when it comes it and I get it reinstalled, I'll let everyone know.
 
The noise is possibly coming from the starter clutch bolts ready to give up the ghost.Pull cover off and check.
 
Alright, it's been a while since I've had the bike running. Finally got the carbs set up well enough to get it to idle steadily. And, the noise is still present. :mad:

I'm going to go through everything I touched, and double check things. Everything seems to be working well enough, but you never know. I guess the next suspect would be the starter clutch hub? I understand I'll need a special puller of some sort, and that these things can be an incredible pain to take off. What's the best way to go about removal? Which parts will I need to order, assuming I don't break anything essential while dismantling?

At least I know my clutch isn't going to be a problem in the future. :D
 
Make sure you have a washer on both sides of the starter idler gear !!
 
Rotor puller I made consisted of a 14 X 1.5 MM bolt welded to a piece of round stock. Put a piece of pipe or something to act as the slide hammer on the round stock and weld a stop on the end of the round stock to slamm the pipe against. screw it into the hole on the end of the rotor and steady the puller and give it a few slams and it will generally just pop off..cost less that 2 bucks for the bolt..PS..Get a hardened bolt so the threads will hold up!! check online pullers made for your bike and that will tell you the thread and the pitch.
 
OUt of curiosity, is your noise more of a knock, or more of a tick? And does it do it just at idle, or does it show up when giving it gas under a load...as in taking off down the road?
 
Found that knock on idle was starter clutch.Pull it off and check before all the bolts are broken and are then tough to extract
 
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