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Looking for any GS shaft drive indepth experience

"If got fingers from both hands in there, can try harder to push things up/down and side-to-side, all seemed good there, but... could push things back and forth (rear to front), a good 3/8th inch.... maybe that is terrible... eh? Or maybe not, I see on part fisch digaram that are splines there to allow for such"

sounds like nut#17 has backed off in the driven gear assembly. The spline there is to allow fitup of that assembly - once tight it's not supposed to slide. The spline on prop shaft takes up variations of swing arm travel up and down
 
"If got fingers from both hands in there, can try harder to push things up/down and side-to-side, all seemed good there, but... could push things back and forth (rear to front), a good 3/8th inch.... maybe that is terrible... eh? Or maybe not, I see on part fisch digaram that are splines there to allow for such"

sounds like nut#17 has backed off in the driven gear assembly. The spline there is to allow fitup of that assembly - once tight it's not supposed to slide. The spline on prop shaft takes up variations of swing arm travel up and down

Agreed -- you've found the problem. There should be no back and forth play at all. Most likely, The threaded portion of the shaft has broken off (the nut can't really back off that much, since there's no place for it to go). Time to remove the swingarm and see what's up.

Since the u-joint is directly in line with the swingarm pivot point, there is little to no length variation, and this is handled by the spline at the rear where the driveshaft slides into the final drive. At the front, there should be no back and forth play at all.

I've seen a repair where the owner had a machine shop drill and tap the shaft and install a washer and a large socket head bolt to retain the driveshaft flange. That seems to be a pretty good solution if you can't find a good used assembly.
 
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Thanks Guys.

Good to use you guys indepth knowledge and my dumb labor to figure this out.

Nobody has said it, but I suppose I would be an idiot to keep riding it.

Now I start the hunt for replacement parts. And investigate interchangeability.

What I am looking for is "Driven gear assembly", but maybe that not what some ebay seller might call it. Maybe "Bevel Gear".

Have been looking some already. I see multiple "drive shafts" on most any day.
And sometimes see transmission shaft or gears. Havent seen "Driven Gear assembly".
Any suggestion for good ebay search terms....?
 
Post a list of what you need, I probably have all the part and even a new output seal (19 in your part list).
You already bought parts from me years ago if I remember well.
Marc
 
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GOt the replacement secondary driven gear set from Kochik yesterday.
Thanks, Great!



Got the swingarm off this evening.

Pulled it back and ... klunk ... plop....
PFXVIIs.jpg

out fell the nut with broken threaded shaft in it, and the output flange that is suppose to be held on the back of the engine by that nut ..... Exactly Brian's #2 scenerio.

QUOTE BRIAN: .............................................................is when the threaded part of the shaft (two shafts are marked #1; I'm talking about the top one) breaks off. The output flange (#15) is still engaged with the splines and can't really go anywhere, and the nut is trapped between the output flange and the driveshaft flange
END QUOTE


Now, next, is to pull out the secondary driven gear set .....
yK5RNmg.jpg



But I have had more than enough of crawling around on the floor for a couple days.

I also need to reread the manual and GSShoppers tutorial about the various shims.... and see if I can just ignore that, cuz' I aint no machinist.
Well, maybe not ignore it entirely, but somehow kinda check to see if is not too bad.

.
 
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Exact same problem I had. You'll have to loosen some of the motor mount bolts to get enough play to get the assembly out when you remove those 4 bolts. Checking the backlash and the gear contact is a pain.
 
Dave, if you need any special tools or Dial indicators let me know. I might be in your neck of the woods this weekend. I think hurricane Harvey might have foiled my plans of heading east...
 
Dave, if you need any special tools or Dial indicators let me know. I might be in your neck of the woods this weekend. I think hurricane Harvey might have foiled my plans of heading east...

Great. Will PM.
 
Further development....

Further puzzlement....


Will see what find when get the driven gear set out and can see the bevel gear.

Dave
 
Exact same problem I had. You'll have to loosen some of the motor mount bolts to get enough play to get the assembly out ........................

Brian said about the same thing...


And Yep..... got it slid out a couple inches... thunk.

eTWEyhZ.jpg


GOt lots of motor mounts bolt/nuts loose .... nope.... I am missing something.
 
Think you may actually have to remove the rear mounts entirely....
 
What's that thing it's running into? Or am I misunderstanding something in that photo?
 
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What's that thing it's running into? Or am I misunderstanding something in that photo?
THe portion of the frame where the swingarm mounts to. FOr some reference, Can see some of the threaded hole for the swingarm pivot.

Now that I have calmed down some... I see there is another engine mount set on lower back of engine. And now I recall that air box is mounted to frame. But even still once I get those bolts/nuts loose, there still is not movement left or right, is up against tabs and brackets. Maybe have to remove those brackets, like Mario said,... or maybe need to lift engine up and over the brackets, or maybe go forward past the brackets then over to one side.
Last night I got annoyed and nervous. Any further comments/advise?

Maybe can get back to it tomorrow afternoon.
 
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Hmmm... I've been pondering the photo for a while, and also pondering and contrasting the 1100GK and other shaftie parts diagrams.

It looks like there's some added GK structure there that's not found in the other bikes. In the 850, the bearing cup is relieved to allow the gearset to be extracted. Is all that stuff related to a beefier centerstand or something?

If that thingy doesn't unbolt or slide off or whatever, you may need to support the engine and remove the engine mount bolts entirely to create enough clearance.

This is one of those things where it's really hard to see what's going on without the bike in front of me...
 
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Thanks Brian. Your assessment seems correct. That big protuberance there is where the center stand portion of the frame is connected to from underneath.
Okay, thanks, I now have a direction to proceed.

THis will be taking me even further beyond my experience.

Brian, You are a great example of what is so great about this forum.

Dave
 
Further development....

Further puzzlement....


Will see what find when get the driven gear set out and can see the bevel gear.

Dave

Ouch....you did say ".003-.005 thou"....and not ".300 to .500 thou"!
I have a Starrett dial gauge that reads +/- .005 max, but I don't think you'll need it for that.
 
Ouch....you did say ".003-.005 thou"....and not ".300 to .500 thou"!
I have a Starrett dial gauge that reads +/- .005 max, but I don't think you'll need it for that.

When making that vidio, I was thinking what numbers were listed in mm in manaul and what numbers in inches (0.003 - 0.005) but then my nervous self said "thou ".

I do not know if the backlash means all the way from one clunk to the other clunk, or just the little bit of movement with out much resistance. SO, basically, I am saying that this all goes way past my current level of knowledge and experience.

Will see how much more trouble I am in when get the gear unit out, and see the bevel gear.

.
 
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