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Looking to have my carbs rebuilt

  • Thread starter Thread starter RogueZuki
  • Start date Start date
R

RogueZuki

Guest
The bike sat for quite awhile before I got it and as far as I know, it need to have the carbs rebuilt/cleaned. I'm mechanically knowledgable enough to take the carbs off the bike, but I'm not comfortable enough to redo my own carbs.

I'm wondering if someone on this forum would like to do my carbs? I'm not looking for a handout but from what Phaseman has told me, he's been quoted $400 for his four carbs. That's a bit much for me. I'll pay for shipping, parts, and your time.

If no one here would like to take me up on this, does anyone have a link to an online place that could do this on the cheap?
 
It's not a hard job. Just take your time, take photos so you don't forget where everything goes, and ask us questions here if necessary.

If you absolutely can't do the job, drop me a PM and I'll help you out.
 
I don't know where to get the parts I need to do the job. I'll try the search function, but would really like some advice as to where I can either pick the parts up I need or order them online. If you guys say it's not that hard, then I guess I'll give it a shot.
 
Renobruce might do them for you... I think he's willing to do carb work.

Dan :)
 
I like to soak them in the Berryman's, rinse with the hose & then spray them with brake Cleaner - No residue. It is not a dificult task, Just take your time. www.cycleorings.com for the O rings. If you are carefull that is all you will need for parts
 
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what about the diaphragms? i hear they can get pin holes in them. how can i find out if mine have those?
 
Hold them up to the light whilst stretching them out a little... You'll see pretty easy if they have any.
 
i just read through that pictorial, damn that's some scary stuff. i'm now feeling intimidated all over again.
 
Good work folks! I've been tryin' to talk RogueZukie into doing this himself for weeks... You guys got to him in one night!

You GO RogueZuki!!!
 
There are a few extra things to understand about doing the carbs if you have not done this kind of work before...

- Make sure you have the proper tools to do the job. You need a tight fitting #2 phillips screwdriver for the screws on the top caps and floatbowls. The larger screws holding the carbs in a gang need a #3 screwdriver - these ones are often very tight. Using an impact driver is recommended on these.

- To remove the pilot jets, and pilot air screws, you need a tight fitting small blade screwdriver. I ground down a larger screwdriver until it fits nice and snug in those small slots.

The carb rebuild often goes array when removing the pilot screws and/or jets - people butcher the slot in the screws if the screws/jets bind in the carb body. Using heat and PB Blaster really helps. Just be very careful to not force anything.

Another place where people mess up is when removing the float pin - they snap off the float bowl post. Supporting the post with a small socket helps keep this from happening. I wish we could get the carb series updated with these added details.

Good luck and hope this helps.
 
Once you get past the fear, it's really not bad. I just finished my friend's BS30s off his Yamaha Radian. Almost identical to the carb rebuild guide. One step we skipped was removing the pilot jet. It's very small and apparently a real pain to get out. There's no o-ring or anything behind it, so there's no reason it would have to come out before going into the drink.

+1 on well-fitting screwdrivers! A $25 Craftsman impact driver works a treat on the top & bottom screws. Less for the impact, and more that the bits that come with it are fantastic! A 4mm socket did a great job supporting the post, and dremel-ing the head off a finishing nail made a fantastic drift for removing the float pin.

We're using Gunk dip b/c Advance Auto didn't have Berryman's. NOW I find out that AutoZone carries it! We're dipping parts for 48 hours per someone's suggestion here. Not really a hardship b/c we're waiting for parts anyway. He was quite paranoid about dipping the throttle shafts and ruining the seals - though most people seem to get away with it with no problems. We took the handle off the basket and put it in upside-down. The dip was still a bit (5mm or so) deep so we stacked a couple of small combo wrenches under the throttle body. Clean carbs and clean wrenches! A little warm water and an old toothbrush around the throttle return springs and man they come out looking almost new!

I'm going to do mine soon. Was thinking about making a video series about it. Good idea?
 
mike_of_bbg said:
Once you get past the fear, it's really not bad. I just finished my friend's BS30s off his Yamaha Radian. Almost identical to the carb rebuild guide. One step we skipped was removing the pilot jet. It's very small and apparently a real pain to get out. There's no o-ring or anything behind it, so there's no reason it would have to come out before going into the drink.

+1 on well-fitting screwdrivers! A $25 Craftsman impact driver works a treat on the top & bottom screws. Less for the impact, and more that the bits that come with it are fantastic! A 4mm socket did a great job supporting the post, and dremel-ing the head off a finishing nail made a fantastic drift for removing the float pin.

We're using Gunk dip b/c Advance Auto didn't have Berryman's. NOW I find out that AutoZone carries it! We're dipping parts for 48 hours per someone's suggestion here. Not really a hardship b/c we're waiting for parts anyway. He was quite paranoid about dipping the throttle shafts and ruining the seals - though most people seem to get away with it with no problems. We took the handle off the basket and put it in upside-down. The dip was still a bit (5mm or so) deep so we stacked a couple of small combo wrenches under the throttle body. Clean carbs and clean wrenches! A little warm water and an old toothbrush around the throttle return springs and man they come out looking almost new!

I'm going to do mine soon. Was thinking about making a video series about it. Good idea?
Click to expand...

A video would be great.

One comment about the pilot jets - they have a very small orifice and often clog. I'd go as far as to say that removing them and holding them up to the light to make sure they are open is one of the most important steps in cleaning the carbs.
 
Nessism said:
A video would be great.

One comment about the pilot jets - they have a very small orifice and often clog. I'd go as far as to say that removing them and holding them up to the light to make sure they are open is one of the most important steps in cleaning the carbs.
Click to expand...

Seems one or two of them are always clogged on bikes that have sat too long.
 
Hey I was in your shoes this time last year. I was really intimidated by doing the carbs myself, and I had twice as many :-)

Any ONE step in that rebuild tutorial is easily doable and not so intimidating. It makes a lot more sense when you have a carb in your hand and a picture to compare it to. Don't let the fact that there are a zillion steps freak you out. Just do 1 carb at a time, 1 step at a time. Lay all the parts out nicely in order as you remove them.

Get the kit from cycle orings as suggested and an impact driver as suggested. I didn't even really know what an impact driver was. I just went to Sears and asked. Again, it makes sense when you have it in your hand and see how it works.

At least give it a try before you ship it off to someone. You can ship the pieces just as easily as the whole thing. And if you do it yourself, you'll really feel like you can tackle anything when you are done. You can do it. We are all here to help.

Just my 2 cents. Have faith!
 
Ed, you mention having the right tools and that's what scares me.

I don't have a manometer so I've got no way to vaccuum sync the carbs once I'm done.

It looks like all I need is a feeler gauge (or, apparently, even a paper clip) in order to bench sync them, but some of the posts I've read on this site seem to suggest that a bench sync is not a substitute for vaccuum syncing the carbs..

So, am I out of luck? I was laid off two months ago and not really wanting to spend $100 bucks on a manometer unless I really have to.

And I don't know anyone locally who has one I can borrow.. unless there's someone on this forum in the Seattle, Wash. area who'd be willing to help.

Also, in reading the tutorial, it looks like I have to measure the float setting at some point. The manual shows a special tool for this that, when I looked, cost about $40 to buy. Is that tool necessary, or can I just use any old measuring device, like a ruler or tape measure?

Anyway, I have the carbs off the bike, replaced the intake boots, and cleaned the airbox filter (waiting for new boots for the airbox, too) but my carbs are sitting on my bench 'cause I'm not sure if I should proceed without these two speciality tools.

Any suggestions on this?

Thanks
 
Can't help with the manometer. As far as the float heights, if you have Harbor Freight close by, they sell a digital calipers for cheap. I don't recall how much exactly, but it was less than $10.

I was going to make a template that was 22.4mm out of some scrap sheet metal, before I saw the calipers there. Your float height may not be 22.4mm....check your manual.:)
 
You are going to have to have your carbs sync'd. If you plan to keep the motorcycle for any length of time and work on it yourself, you should buy a vacuum gauge set and learn to do that. That having been said, if you send your carbs to someone to have them rebuilt, you're still going to have to have them sync'd. A proper sync requires the bike. You're even supposed to sync them after adjusting valve clearances, as that will alter the airflow characteristics of each cylinder.

Some will advocate the use of special tools no doubt to set the float height. As I recall, the tutorial on BassCliff's site is using a digital caliper, and that's probably good enough. Can you get your hands on one of those? I just ordered one for $20 I think. $20 or $40, that's less than the coin you'll save by rebuilding the carbs yourself in all likelihood.
 
Keep the bike?! Are you kidding. I love this bike!

That being said, I do want to get a manometer, just not right now if I can help it.

The digital calipers, yup, I think I can swing that and there is a Harbor Freight nearby.

So I can grab those. I suppose I could dip into savings to get the danged manometer, 'cause I know I need it, I guess I was just hoping to put it off until I got a job.

But the carbs are off now 'cause I was replacing my boots and I really would like to get the carbs clean. I'm sure they haven't been cleaned in at least 20 years.

Most of the stuff on my bike shows significant signs of neglect. But I still love it!
 
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