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Looks like another manual cam chain tensioner thread! 
I pulled the nut off the manual cam chain adjuster on my GS1150 racebike. The adjuster isn't marked, but I suspect it's APE. Red aluminum plate, adjustment is via flathead screwdriver.
The nut was a #!&!#% to remove from the adjustment screw; it took so much torque to get it off it felt like it was by design (like the valve adjusters on my 1966 Dodge ... no locknuts, just a "semi-interference" fit between the adjustment screw and the rocker arm).
I'm looking to get a replacement nut; anyone know the thread pitch? My gauge says 20 threads per inch, and the nut I took off of it fits fairly well on a 7/16"-20 test bolt. If the threads are metric they don't appear to be either 1.25 or 1.5.
Both the nut and the adjuster are a bit boogered, so before I chase the threads on the adjuster with a die I want to make double-sure I've got the right pitch.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Related, am I right in thinking I can simply remove the adjuster to clean it up? The red aluminum plate holding the adjuster is attached to the cylinder with two socket-head cap screws, it'd be easy to remove. I suspect the "foot" of the adjuster just pushes up against a blade-style tensioner, so there's no harm in removing it. But figured I'd ask before I just start pulling things.
I pulled the nut off the manual cam chain adjuster on my GS1150 racebike. The adjuster isn't marked, but I suspect it's APE. Red aluminum plate, adjustment is via flathead screwdriver.
The nut was a #!&!#% to remove from the adjustment screw; it took so much torque to get it off it felt like it was by design (like the valve adjusters on my 1966 Dodge ... no locknuts, just a "semi-interference" fit between the adjustment screw and the rocker arm).
I'm looking to get a replacement nut; anyone know the thread pitch? My gauge says 20 threads per inch, and the nut I took off of it fits fairly well on a 7/16"-20 test bolt. If the threads are metric they don't appear to be either 1.25 or 1.5.
Both the nut and the adjuster are a bit boogered, so before I chase the threads on the adjuster with a die I want to make double-sure I've got the right pitch.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Related, am I right in thinking I can simply remove the adjuster to clean it up? The red aluminum plate holding the adjuster is attached to the cylinder with two socket-head cap screws, it'd be easy to remove. I suspect the "foot" of the adjuster just pushes up against a blade-style tensioner, so there's no harm in removing it. But figured I'd ask before I just start pulling things.
