maybe electrical, maybe fuel/air. bike stalls, gets very hot

[detorn]

well the title kind of spells it out, but I'll give some more details.

After about a half hour to 45 minutes of running the bike will start stalling on deceleration. if I let it sit for 5 minutes its 50/50 that'll start back up, if I let it sit for 30 minutes it will start back up but may or may not stall again.

I have done a few of the test in the stator paper fault flow chart and everything is in the right window. its not starting right now so I can't do it all of them till it charges.

I just changed the main jets to see if that had anything to do with it. 1 & 4 were rich (97.5, spec is 95) and 2 & 3 were lean (92.5 spec is 102.5). 2 & 3 are now right and 1 & 4 are still rich, just with new jets.

carbs are clean as a whistle, and fuel flows freely from the petcock.

may or may not be related, my left turn signal only works intermittently. these are very cheap non stock turn signals.

the R/R is shengen (sp?)

also this is the second battery I've had on the bike in 6 months.

finally the bike gets super hot. may or may not be related but you can fry and egg on the oil case cover 30 minutes after the bike has been turned off.

questions, thoughts, ideas? I thank you in advance for any of them.

 

[chuck hahn]

Am I reading that two carbs have one size jets and the 2 others have two differant sizes..but not the 102.5s?

 

[chuck hahn]

You edited as I was responding...what are the jet sizes in all 4 carbs? Mains and pilots?

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

May not be an issue but the centre jets are bigger to compensate for the extra heat of the inboard cylinders. Are you ceratain of the specification?
Ia an airleak possible? Enleanment would certainly cause over heating.

 

[chuck hahn]

Inner cylinders or outer is of no matter..ALL the jets in all 4 carbs are supposed to be the same.

 

[detorn]

from the manual

 

[detorn]

I should add that that was done as a trouble shooting measure... it has had no effect on the behavior

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

The manual states that this may be caused by an oiling issue be it incorrect typ, low level, or oil pressure, A air intake leak. Low float bowl levels. and and and Carbon on the piston crowns.

 

[chuck hahn]

I am corrected..that is the very first manual i have seen with a GS having 2 sets of different jets.

 

[tom203]

Inner cylinders or outer is of no matter..ALL the jets in all 4 carbs are supposed to be the same.

Not on these carbs- inner throats get bigger mains- made sense to someone!

Super hot after 45 minutes- next time put your hand on ignitor box after stallout and see if it's glowing!

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

I trhink they used the same trick on CBXs it is doen to compensate for the extra hot inner cylinders. Alas

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

Oh not that it helps but Canadian spec is 97.5 and 105
So y'all got strangled by the EPA

In that you were into the carbs I would look for the problem there.
Did you replace the intake pipe o-rings with new ones?

This rubber boot twixt the airbox and throats are an absolute bastard to get on perfectly. I have thought that its well worth the 50 bucks of new ones.

I really cannot see how this could ever bee an electrical issueesp in light of the over heating.

 

[chuck hahn]

I agree on the overheating and electrical not being related. But there is an electrical issue if youre cooking batteries every 6 months.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

Could it be Posplayr is correct in his suspicion of the stator running hotter than the engine? Hmmmm.

I over looked the battery statement.

I think you have two unrelated issues fix the battery prob first. If that fixes the whole problem then we all owe Kudos to PP and some owe him an apology.

 

[posplayr]

Could it be Posplayr is correct in his suspicion of the stator running hotter than the engine? Hmmmm.

I over looked the battery statement.

I think you have two unrelated issues fix the battery prob first. If that fixes the whole problem then we all owe Kudos to PP and some owe him an apology.

I think I would mount a volt meter on the bike. When cold do the Quick Test to establish a baseline and verify proper operation of charging system , then run for the 30 min until it starts dying and see if the voltages are dropping.

Stators clearly get hotter than engines that is why they(stators) look burned.

One other explanation is a stator that is shorting after getting hot. Is the battery running down?

The Revised Phase B tests for stator leg to ground are very reliable at detecting otherwise undetected stator failure according to Graham.

 

[detorn]

Is the battery running down?

yes. when the stalling begins it can not restart. I bump started it to get to a safe place earlier where I gave it 30 minutes to rest and then it got me home without a stall till I hit my house. but it was all highway, unlike the ride up.

 

[detorn]

I really cannot see how this could ever bee an electrical issueesp in light of the over heating.

pretty sure I'm good with air leaks. its runs like a champ from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, wouldn't an air leak be a consistent problem?

the reason I post as an electrical problem is that in can not restart after a stall... to weak to kick it over. probably 2 separate issues like said before.. I put them together because I didn't know and didn't want to leave out any info while trying to diagnose

 

[posplayr]

yes. when the stalling begins it can not restart. I bump started it to get to a safe place earlier where I gave it 30 minutes to rest and then it got me home without a stall till I hit my house. but it was all highway, unlike the ride up.

Run these tests

A revised test is at this link; The actual test is on Page 6 of 9. We added the leg to ground AC voltage test as this helps isolate insulation breakdowns to ground using the relatively high 60-80 VAC stator voltage when it is open loop.

Link to Revised PHASE B of Stator Pages with discussion of testing methods:
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3977567/dummy-load-scanned-pdf-may-14-2012-8-24-pm-649k?da=y

Ignore the dummy load. Your problems sounds like the problem PsyGuy was having a while back which is what prompted me to look at the effectiveness of the test and discovered an additional procedure that Graham had been using for some time and had proved pretty conclusive if there is AC bleed into the ground.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1096090&postcount=1

 

[detorn]

after letting it cool and charge, it won't start at all. couple of cranks, a click and then nothing.

I'm out of sun light, I'll try the revised test tomorrow

 

[posplayr]

after letting it cool and charge, it won't start at all. couple of cranks, a click and then nothing.

I'm out of sun light, I'll try the revised test tomorrow

The stator to ground test are very reliable in deducing that the stator is bad without having to run the bike for 1/2 hour.