MotionPro Chain Alignment Tool

[koolaid_kid]

For those rare few on the forum who do not own an 850, and in the longer view a driveshaft motorcycle, chain alignment has always been an issue. Misalign it, and the chain and sprockets will wear much faster. I have always used the string method, tedious but fairly accurate.
This year, I purchased a MotionPro Chain Alignment Tool. It is a simple tool which clamps to the sprocket and has a thin rod which is used to sight along the chain links. It appears to be even more accurate than using the string, and a bit easier to use, with the following caveats:
1) If your bike has a chain guard (mine do, as do most) the tool must be used on the bottom (misleading pictures by MotionPro, who shows it on the top).
2) You must remove it before moving the bike. I read about this and chuckled, then did it myself first time. Duh! Thankfully, it uses plastic screws, which I hopefully will find at my handy-dandy Ace Hardware Store.

I am going to check it on my GPz this week, but it was more accurate than the string method by about a half a notch (using the inaccurate factory notches on the swingarm).

 

[Tom MLC]

Sounds like a good tool to have. How much do they cost?

 

[Bert Patterson]

All right, looked like it would work too cool...........I got mine from Indysuperbikes for $21.95 (but shipping was another $11).

 

[Baatfam]

All right, looked like it would work too cool...........I got mine from Indysuperbikes for $21.95 (but shipping was another $11).

Good! Now you can tell us which side of the sprocket the spacer goes on....

 

[Bert Patterson]

Good! Now you can tell us which side of the sprocket the spacer goes on....

Like I would even f***in? know Bob?!

Actually, it turns out that, illogically, the spacer appears to fit properly on the outside of the spacer. When I get this tool, I may found out I was wrong, but many including you told me to go outside?Chris at Z1 also (though their site says otherwise)??..plus?.it was acting a bit squirrely and now it?s not (probably my imagination).

I have enough slack in the chain that I was able to just pop off the shifter and cover, spin the big nut and lift everything off and replace without loosening the rear wheel.

I have big plans before the crud run in a month??I?m going to align the rear wheel, change the oil/filter, slightly wash the bike and take several glances in the general direction of both my stainless brake lines (in the basement) and the low brake fluid the color of coca-cola in my master cylinder???.perhaps I will look at some other things, too, if time permits.

 

[bwringer]

All right, looked like it would work too cool...........I got mine from Indysuperbikes for $21.95 (but shipping was another $11).

Hey, IndySuperBikes is maybe two miles from my office!

Let me know if I need to go over there and get medieval on one of those baggy-pantsed punks for ya... :twistedevil:

 

[Bert Patterson]

Hey, IndySuperBikes is maybe two miles from my office!

Let me know if I need to go over there and get medieval on one of those baggy-pantsed punks for ya... :twistedevil:

Cool......we'll give 'em a few days..........

 

[twr1776]

Yesterday, 06:14 AM koolaid_kid chain alignment has always been an issue.

Not for me. :twistedevil: :dancing: Sorry George, had to throw one in from the "shafted" side of the force.

 

[Joe Nardy]

Here's another method I haven't seen mentioned around here that is easy and free. Look closely at the rear sprocket and you'll see that there is a noticeable size difference between the sprocket and the inner chain plates. Adjust the chain so that when you spin the wheel the gap is evenly spaced on either side of the sprocket. Maybe not a scientific as the tool but it works well.

thanks,
Joe

 

[bwringer]

Here's another method I haven't seen mentioned around here that is easy and free. Look closely at the rear sprocket and you'll see that there is a noticeable size difference between the sprocket and the inner chain plates. Adjust the chain so that when you spin the wheel the gap is evenly spaced on either side of the sprocket. Maybe not a scientific as the tool but it works well.

thanks,
Joe

So sayeth Joe.
So let it be done.


This is what I did with the new chain on my V-Strom, at least until I have a chance to try out George's fancy new tool (wait, um, that sounds bad...).

Yes, I do have a few hazy memories of how to deal with chains.

 

[Turtleface]

Here's another method I haven't seen mentioned around here that is easy and free. Look closely at the rear sprocket and you'll see that there is a noticeable size difference between the sprocket and the inner chain plates. Adjust the chain so that when you spin the wheel the gap is evenly spaced on either side of the sprocket. Maybe not a scientific as the tool but it works well.

thanks,
Joe

This is the way I was taught, by a grizzled old motorcyclist (40+ years of motorcycling, 40+ bikes) who in turn was taught by a grizzled old flat track racer. Just spin the rear wheel up to about 5 mph (by hand!), and use the adjusters to center the teeth of the sprocket inbetween the sideplates. Make sure to check the entire length of the chain, every link should be in-line This also eliminate the possibility of the adjuster markings being outta whack, since they're not referenced. Then you just turn both adjusters evenly until you're slack is properly taken up, and of course, always double check everything. At least once. Pretty decent for periodic maintenance, I did use the string method when converting to my 530 setup, just to be sure.

That being said, I might pick one of these tools up. I like having hard measurements as much as the next guy, but the string method can be cumbersome in my crowded garage. Woefully, it's only crowded with junk, not other bikes. This looks pretty compact, and easy enough to use with minimal space.