My '82 GS550MZ Refit

[Larry D]

Loosen up everything, boots, airbox, move around the boots as much as you can to loosen them. Then, it's a matter of wrastlin' them outta there. If you get the new boots, you'll be amazed at how much easier they go back in. Check the boots you have though, they may still be serviceable.

Make sure to disconnect the throttle and choke cables first.

 

[79FiveFifty]

the first time i removed my carbs i had a tough time because I too thought "my clutch cable was in the way."

It's not really in the way at all, it just appears to be. There is enough slack in the cable if you pull it through the frame some more to slide the carb past it and remove them from the bike.

The first time I took them out I also backed that lower adjustment bolt all the way out just to give myself some room, that's when i realized you can just pull more down from the top and it will fit just fine. Worst case.. you can remove the lever end if you really can't make enough slack but most people don't have to do that.

It looks harder than it is to remove all that stuff, losen all 8 clamps on boots.. unscrew all the electrical stuff from side of air box.. remove air box from carbs by pulling air box back off the carbs.. pull carbs backwards out of head boots and wiggle your carbs out. from there it's all fairly easy.

 

[Smokinapankake]

I've found that on replacing carbs it is immensely helpful to spray a little silicon lubricant into the intake boots, and to the airbox rubbers. Softens them up a bit and slipperies them up a bunch. Turned my 84 Kat 750 carb rebuild into an almost pleasurable experience.

 

[detorn]

So I don't know if it is the way that this bike in particular is set up, but this was pretty difficult. I disconnected the air box from the intake, but the intake was wider than the frame so there was no where to go with it really. I ended up pulling the intake up while pressing the carbs down and got them free. Though a clamp was lost in the process.

Already ordered the replacement and the replacement vacuum hose for the petcock.

carbs before shot:

Carbs out:

If any of the locals want to help me get these clean and the bike reassembled, I am not too proud to ask for help.

 

[Larry D]

Nice job !! Look under "GS Parts and Services", if you want to ship those carbs off for someone else to clean them up for you.

 

[detorn]

Updates.

Updates.

Thanks to the help of a fellow forum user the carbs are clean and have all new o-rings, and are ready to go back in.

I have the clusters apart and I am preparing the frankenstein install

Thanks to my wife's late father who used to wrench on Corvettes I have a lot of new tools to get the rest of the work done. He has been dead for 10 years now, but his tools are being pressed back into service. Not to get mushy, but there is something very poetic about that...

(Torque wrench, compression tester, a good socket set, cheater bar, feeler gauges, impact screwdriver, etc.

I have new vacuum and fuel line hoses and petcock o-ring still to install. And the new tires are here

Not sure yet how much is left to pass inspection (my first goal), but I think I see light at the end of that tunnel.

 

[detorn]

The bike has been reassembled and is running well. No more leaking fuel. There are still a couple lingering issues, namely the tach and break light. Still need to replace the tires and have the carbs synced, but it looks like I'll be road ready soon.

Some photos

Some smoke is coming out of the pipe here. Not sure if its just dirt from sitting or a real problem.

Cleaned and installed carbs

new turn signal lens

new cluster installed

left over parts, if you can identify any of these please let me know. I know at least one is to hold the airbox filter cover on.

 

[Big T]

Some photos

left over parts, if you can identify any of these please let me know. I know at least one is to hold the airbox filter cover on.

Lower left - they go inside rubber bushings for the instruments, or where the bolts go thru the sides of the headlight bucket

Upper right - battery terminal bolt

 

[Larry D]

Looking good !!

Get that airbox boot all the way onto the carb.

 

[seuadr]

awesome! it's supprising how much difference some basic maintenece on the fuel delivery system will make, ya?

glad to see you decided to keep the old girl, she's a looker!

 

[Nessism]

Looking good and keep going...

Noticed the carb boot screws still look like the origionals. Did you replace the intake boot O-rings? If not, bite the bullet and do it. Those intake O-rings are a cronic problem on these old GS bikes so you will be miles ahead doing the O-rings now. Also, please don't forget to adjust those valves. Neglecting them will result in engine damage.

 

[79FiveFifty]

the photo that says "cleaned carbs installed" .. you have the end boot facing the wrong way it looks like, inside the air box the 2 end boots are angled so that air is drawn from the middle of the box, it appears as though you have it facing downward possibly, i could be wrong but it looks like it is a not on there quite right.

Be sure to check into that so you don't end up with a leak that messes with your idle.

Good job thus far, these crazy old bikes are fun to ride once they run well.

 

[detorn]

woo, well after 4 foot of snow and 6 days of rain work has continued.

Today I used the instructions here to fix my break light issue. The plastic part broke and had turned sideways. It is cleaned, re-installed and working--though it will have to be replaced eventually.

Everyone was correct with the carb issue. They were not on right and I was having issues. I took the time today to really get everything together tight.

After some troubleshooting it seems as though both tach and speedo cables are bad. Luckily these are pretty cheap and easy to replace. So, that and the tires are going on this or next week I should be able to pass inspection.

More work needs to be done, but most of it is just getting it back on a proper maintenance schedule.

Finally, I start the MSP tomorrow night. It takes two weeks to finish. So I'm thinking that by the time I get the cables, tires, and inspection, I will be a licensed rider.

Thanks again to all of you for your help, though I'm sure I'm not done asking for it.

 

[detorn]

After getting my bike all back together I was facing some huge power loss issues. I dealt with them here.

Turns out the break light fix was only temporary. I ordered a new contact along with the speedo and tach cables from here. I haven't used them before, but they are seriously the cheapest vendor going. In the mean time I pulled the contact in the front break switch so the light will work when the rear break is applied. Just a work around while I wait for the part. $38 for contact and cables.

Tires are now on. The rims needed to be drilled so that the new stems could be put in. $90 plus $10 for the stems. Guy said my breaks are good, but the fluid needs to be replaced. I am super happy that I decided not to do this part myself, they had problems at every stage of the process

Total so far 1343.92.

The only cost left to get to baseline is a new oil filter and inspection. 50ish

Took the MSP written test last night, passed. I take the road test sunday... possibly in the rain.

 

[bradleymaynar]

Took the MSP written test last night, passed. I take the road test sunday... possibly in the rain.

Congrats!! :dancing: And go to Wally World (Walmart) and pick up a cheap two-piece rain suit (around $20) for being in the rain. Buy the next size up from what you usually wear and it should fit over your gear. Then you can at least laugh at all the other poor schmoes getting soaked while you stay relatively dry.

Brad bk

 

[mottyl]

Well I finally looked through your whole post. Good job and congratulations for not giving up.

Chris

 

[detorn]

Congrats!! :dancing: And go to Wally World (Walmart) and pick up a cheap two-piece rain suit (around $20) for being in the rain. Buy the next size up from what you usually wear and it should fit over your gear. Then you can at least laugh at all the other poor schmoes getting soaked while you stay relatively dry.

Brad bk

The rain stayed away till the ride home... I did pass and I now have M status.

Well I finally looked through your whole post. Good job and congratulations for not giving up.

Chris

Thanks bro, its still a work in progress

 

[Charlie G]

Congratulations on the "M" test!

cg

 

[TheCafeKid]

Cheap-ish and easy suggestion on your brake light switch issues.. Suzuki used a sliding adjustable contact to activate the light when the brake is pulled on the front.. The rear is sort of similar. I have found these things to be rather pesky to adjust, keep that way, and if the bike's been sitting outside long, sometimes corroded beyond further use.. I usually replace my brake switches with an inline pressure sensitive switch in the form of a replacement banjo bolt.. Looks and takes the place of the banjo bolt SOMEWHERE in your brake system, be it at the master cylinder, or at the splitter, or where-ever, but it has a pressure switch built in and wires coming out to splice into your existing harness.. They work without fail, and are only $15ish bucks.. IMO a wise investment instead of fighting those stock sliding pieces of junk..

You've got a rare one there... one of the neatest looking little GSs IMO, hang on to her, get her all spiffed up and be proud that you not only own one of the sweetest road going motorcycles ever to come out of Japan, but also that you did most of the work in getting her running again yourself. There is something about THAT that makes you really appreciate these bikes more. Im not sure Id love my GSs quite as much if I didnt have a hand in making them the powerhouse machines that they are again..

 

[detorn]

I usually replace my brake switches with an inline pressure sensitive switch in the form of a replacement banjo bolt..

I ordered a replacement contact that came today. If it goes again I will look into replacing it the way you suggest.

______________________________________

Saturday is my first group ride, so to get ready here is the agenda for tomorrow.

- Oil change - Got a new K&N filter new oring

- Bleeding the breaks and replacing the fluid. The break fluid in the bike now looks like motor oil.

- put in new break light contact

- hook up new tach/speedo cables (and hope that was the issue)

- tweak throttle cable

- tweak clutch cable (being discussed here)

- engine compression test

- oil pressure test...


Aside from that I'll eventually have to fix the horn button, but I think we can call this thread done...



...for now