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My homemade cycle lift table

I can add another lock at the back. Or make some chocks that will fit between the top and bottom and set them in before lowering to take up some pressure off the back end.

Yeah I got a hard head...specially since its right here in front of me and you guys are grasping at straws because you cant actually SEE how it works. I don't have an engineering degree..but then again most folks I know with degrees are dumb as stumps anyways. Got book learning and not a bit of practical experience to go along with it.
 
How much is it going to take go split the end grain.
That depends on the species of wood, it's moisture content, the woods dimensions and the direction the force is applied in relationship to the grain. :p
 
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I can add another lock at the back.
It's not a question off adding another another lock, it's a question of your locks placement. The way that it is now the front struts are under tension (being pulled apart). If you were to move the lock rearward of the bikes center stand, then all the struts would be under a compressive force.

Put a bolt near the end of a piece of wood, pull on it and it is fairly easy to get the woods grain to split- especially with pine. Trying to push (compressive load) the bolt down through the middle of the board requires considerably more force.

That's why wood makes good post, but not good when used like a chain.
 
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Cool idea chuck. I admire people who use ingenuity and "found materials" to get stuff done. Many people in this world wait until all the lights are green before they leave the house and never get anything done.

Regarding all the others concerns over possible sideways or diagonal twisting and collapsing. I am sure you will keep an eye on if it and if there is ever any doubt about it getting sloppy you could easily make two triangle pieces that can be attached and flipped down as a safety catch for any sideways movement... or simply jam a board with a rubber foot on each side.
 
Many people in this world wait until all the lights are green before they leave the house and never get anything done.
Or you can be like my father who built a lot of things in a hurry, very few of which are still in one piece.

I always got a kick out of it when he once told told me " you never get anything done". Funny, all my project's are still standing... His... not so much. :(
 
Or you can be like my father who built a lot of things in a hurry, very few of which are still in one piece.

I always got a kick out of it when he once told told me " you never get anything done". Funny, all my project's are still standing... His... not so much. :(

Failure can also be a learning process; for some not so much.:o
 
That depends on the species of wood, it's moisture content, the woods dimensions and the direction the force is applied in relationship to the grain. :p

I think that was my point not easy to predict and very dependent on the actual sticks of wood he has in place.
 
Cool idea chuck. I admire people who use ingenuity and "found materials" to get stuff done. Many people in this world wait until all the lights are green before they leave the house and never get anything done.

Regarding all the others concerns over possible sideways or diagonal twisting and collapsing. I am sure you will keep an eye on if it and if there is ever any doubt about it getting sloppy you could easily make two triangle pieces that can be attached and flipped down as a safety catch for any sideways movement... or simply jam a board with a rubber foot on each side.

+1 chuck's sure works better than the one I ran out and tried to cobble together yesterday!
 
Don't make it anything like mine Dale. Damned thing will collapse if you set a cup of coffee on it the wrong way!!!!!
 
Sorry Chuck, but it's going to look very similar to the one you just made... :)
 
The table looks good to me. I had one I put together with some scrap shelves I got from work, but I never felt confident lifting the table with the bike on it. I ended up making a gardening bench for my wife out of it. I get the possible issues with the 2x4 struts possibly splitting, but that would be easily managed by getting a few feet of slotted angle. Put two pieces about 6" long on the narrow sides of the 2x4, straddling the pivot points. Drill through the 2x4 and use a couple of carriage bolts on either side of the pivot points to prevent splitting. Four feet of slotted angle and eight carriage bolts would eliminate that potential problem.
 
The table looks good to me. I had one I put together with some scrap shelves I got from work, but I never felt confident lifting the table with the bike on it. I ended up making a gardening bench for my wife out of it. I get the possible issues with the 2x4 struts possibly splitting, but that would be easily managed by getting a few feet of slotted angle. Put two pieces about 6" long on the narrow sides of the 2x4, straddling the pivot points. Drill through the 2x4 and use a couple of carriage bolts on either side of the pivot points to prevent splitting. Four feet of slotted angle and eight carriage bolts would eliminate that potential problem.

Yes the biggest issue is conceptual
 
... but I never felt confident lifting the table with the bike on it.....
Aye! There's the rub!
I note that chuck "lashed" his bike to the bench
The width of the bench is important for this reason, and ,the ability to deploy the kickstand before setting on the Centrestand. (two mistakes I ran straight into, trying for a narrower, "beam-only",lifting-ramp idea...)
 
Aye! There's the rub!
I note that chuck "lashed" his bike to the bench
The width of the bench is important for this reason, and ,the ability to deploy the kickstand before setting on the Centrestand. (two mistakes I ran straight into, trying for a narrower, "beam-only",lifting-ramp idea...)

What is your recommended platform dimension?

Chuck what are yours? How far does your extension stick out?
 
Now ,I consider minimal width ~36"(= me straddling bike onto lift, able to deploy kickstand.) This is also enough to "stay" the bike against tipping. Stays would be best as solid struts but tie-downs will work.

length 72" (=roughly bike wheelbase +enough to roll back onto centerstand)

originally tried was ~12" width + a small platform for sidestand but the only pictures anybody will see of this attempt will be taken by ambulance attendants....
 
Since one sheet of the plywood was already ripped in half, I went with the 2 FT wide..but yes I agree that 3 FT would have been much better. Because of the 2FT width I had to make the stand extention which sticks out 10 inches farther than the side 2X6.

Had it been 3 FT wide it would have been a slam dunk s far as roll on, drop side stand, then raise to center stand. I always strap the bike on before attempting any lifting.
 
Two feet wide and around 7 feet long seems pretty common for commercial lifts. I was thinking about doing a 2x7 table with folding legs for my garage.

Jim
 
Go the 8 ft...youll see why when you get a bike up on 7 FT. Youll like the extra Ft for having a bit more stopping room when rolling it up. 7 FT is a tad short...least in my opinion.
 
Go the 8 ft...youll see why when you get a bike up on 7 FT. Youll like the extra Ft for having a bit more stopping room when rolling it up. 7 FT is a tad short...least in my opinion.

Eight feet does work with standard lumber and plywood sizes, and I wouldn't have to do as much cutting. I like making my life easier! Would you suggest going wider than 2 ft? I used a couple of 2 foot wide tables at school and didn't have a lot of trouble getting bikes on as long as there was a decent chock at the front and extra hands nearby just in case. Without the chock things could get dicey.

Jim
 
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