My rear brake is dragging

[Guest]

I figured Id start by adjusting the bolt that stops the brake lever from going back. But I broke off the head...

 

[Burque73]

https://imgur.com/a/F3xvqLV Burque73 that sounds exactly like my issues. There is a picture there. No idea if original...

That pic huge. A smaller image is easier to see.

I figured Id start by adjusting the bolt that stops the brake lever from going back. But I broke off the head...

Dang, sorry to hear that. With all the moisture and road salt over there, PB Blaster or a good penetrating oil applied well in advance will help prevent this. Next time try this, after the PB (or whatever you use) has had ample time to soak in, try slowly working the bolt back and forth even to get the slightest movement, then another shot of oil and wait a bit longer before really cranking on it.

 

[Guest]

Can I just buy Snell Custom Made Brake Lines? They are braided stainless steel. And they make them to order, so I won't have to do anything complicated (beyond attaching them).

I think the rear brake is getting worse. I figured if I am taking the brake pads out, I might as well replace them. What is best? Goldfren, SBS Cermaic or Brembo Carbon-Ceramic? Goldfren is a lot cheaper (149, vs 399 and 420 NOK).

Is there any way to get a new front brake resorvair for a reasonable price? the white plastic looks a bit worn, and I don't like the lid or the screws either (I saw one site sold the whole box for 200usd but thats a bit steep).

If I have to take off the calipers anyways to clean them, I figure I should repaint them. Can I get a good rattlecanjob or should I have someone professional to paint them? There is a car repair place down the street from work (does like damage stuff, they painted my merc when some dude scratched it in a parking lot).

I also need a website that sells ALL the suzuki parts. In norway we have to pay a fee to be granted the priviledge of paying VAT on imports, so making one large order is cheaper than many small ones. I figured I might as well buy all the brake stuff, the oil filter cover bolts and stuff, and the cam chain tensioner stuff. Also an advantadge if they accept Amex and won't bankrupt me on shipping.

Is my brake fluid supposed to be yellow? Im used to it being red.

 

[chuck hahn]

i would completely disassemble the caliper and master cylinder and clean them. Pay special attention to the grooves the piston seals seat in. Get all the white chalky scale out of them. When you put the seals back in feel them from down in the piston well. Yoy want to feel a very slight lip. Seals are tappered so when inserting pistons they dont jam up a seal.

Second thing is to take off the nipple the reservoir line attatches to on the side of the master cylinder. Theres a tiny return port hole that must be clear.

 

[Guest]

i would completely disassemble the caliper and master cylinder and clean them. Pay special attention to the grooves the piston seals seat in. Get all the white chalky scale out of them. When you put the seals back in feel them from down in the piston well. Yoy want to feel a very slight lip. Seals are tappered so when inserting pistons they dont jam up a seal.

Second thing is to take off the nipple the reservoir line attatches to on the side of the master cylinder. Theres a tiny return port hole that must be clear.

But what parts would you replace? Brake lines, pads, and seals in the caliper?

 

[chuck hahn]

I would replace the seals, the little seal between the 2 halves, brake lines if old, and any piston with ANY pitting on the sides.

 

[Guest]

I would replace the seals, the little seal between the 2 halves, brake lines if old, and any piston with ANY pitting on the sides.

How many pistons in the back caliper? Id rather just order too many parts than having to wait two weeks with the bike sitting.

 

[chuck hahn]

2....this is the rebuild kit i just got for the 1000 im rebuilding.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Rea...VUAAOSw3v5YpQhb:sc:USPSFirstClass!73071!US!-1

 

[Grimly]

If you want to fit a replacement front master cylinder, I thoroughly recommend the one from a Honda NT650V / Deauville - 5/8" bore and a perfect match for the twin front GS calipers of that era. You get the modern benefit of a span-adjustable lever, much nicer feel and much more modern internals, too.
Be aware of the differences of some Deauville m/cs, they don't all have the mirror perch on them. If I recall correctly, the post-2000 ones don't have it.

 

[Guest]

If you want to fit a replacement front master cylinder, I thoroughly recommend the one from a Honda NT650V / Deauville - 5/8" bore and a perfect match for the twin front GS calipers of that era. You get the modern benefit of a span-adjustable lever, much nicer feel and much more modern internals, too.
Be aware of the differences of some Deauville m/cs, they don't all have the mirror perch on them. If I recall correctly, the post-2000 ones don't have it.

I will keep that in mind. Are they expensive?

Right now my first priority is making the rear not drag. But if I need new lines, fluid nad stuff I might as well swap out whatever isn't optimal.

 

[Burque73]

Noreg,

I'm just a GS owner that has done many of the things you're getting into and am by no means a mechanic, unlike others who have chimed in here, so take this advice for what it's worth.

Another member (Steve) answered several of my questions using this format and I found it most helpful so I'll try it here. My comments are in red.




Can I just buy Snell Custom Made Brake Lines? They are braided stainless steel. And they make them to order, so I won't have to do anything complicated (beyond attaching them).

Yes, but It may be a good idea to call the supplier and verify that you're getting the right set. Also, see if the set includes banjo bolts and crush washers. I reused my old banjo bolts and just used new crush washers. My set came in slightly different sizes than stock so I laid the old set next to the new set and matched up the lengths as close as possible. They were rather curled up from shipping so heat from a hair dryer helped soften them up to straighten out. Also, if you need the new lines to bend slightly (not so sharp they kink) the hair dryer really helps there too. The new lines are much smaller in diameter than the fat rubber ones and may not be held tightly in place. You'll need some short pieces of rubber hose or something to use as bushings where the lines are held to the frame.

I think the rear brake is getting worse. I figured if I am taking the brake pads out, I might as well replace them. What is best? Goldfren, SBS Cermaic or Brembo Carbon-Ceramic? Goldfren is a lot cheaper (149, vs 399 and 420 NOK).

Maybe someone else can comment on those brands. I've had good luck with EBC Semi-Sintered brake pads. If you're unfamiliar with the differences, this is informative. Just FYI, when your system is all reassembled initially, it won't stop on a dime. You'll need to make several hard stops to get the new pads seated on the rotors and it will get progressivly better. Oh, you previously asked about rotors. They are not hard to replace if you choose to, and they can be found on Ebay for pretty cheap. There are also companys that resurface them, like Tru Disk.


If I have to take off the calipers anyways to clean them, I figure I should repaint them. Can I get a good rattlecanjob or should I have someone professional to paint them? There is a car repair place down the street from work (does like damage stuff, they painted my merc when some dude scratched it in a parking lot).

Brake fluid will make paint bubble up. It is like paint stripper so if you paint them be sure to use something super durable, not the cheapest spray paint on the shelf. After disassembling them, taking them to the auto shop may be a good idea, especially if they can powder coat them for you. They can be powder coated in a household oven, but I've never done that.


I also need a website that sells ALL the suzuki parts. In norway we have to pay a fee to be granted the priviledge of paying VAT on imports, so making one large order is cheaper than many small ones. I figured I might as well buy all the brake stuff, the oil filter cover bolts and stuff, and the cam chain tensioner stuff. Also an advantadge if they accept Amex and won't bankrupt me on shipping.

There are many parts places here in the states, and online, but not sure which would be best to ship over there. Many of us use PartsOutlaw quite often. YMMV

Is my brake fluid supposed to be yellow? Im used to it being red.

Yes. A slight yellow tint is normal, sort of like apple juice. That's a good sign. Mine was more like coffee when I got it. Even if the fluid is fresh and clean, it can still have junk in the system that won't flush out. In my case, I replaced the pads and brake lines. It made a tremendous difference in the stopping power, but the rear brake continued to drag ever so slightly. Much like yours, it got worse. I eventually had to back track and take it all apart later on, so doing this all at once will save you time in the long run.

Bleeding the system is pretty straight forward. It takes a bit of a contortionist to bleed the left front caliper, but it's possible. Also, it takes a while to build up pressure. Just be patient, squeeze the lever, loosen the nipple, tighten the nipple, release the lever.....and repeat. Always making sure there's enough fluid in the MC to avoid pushing air through. There are vacuum bleeders that supposedly simplify the process, but I've always just manually bled them.

Wow, I've rambled long enough. Hope it helps.

 

[chuck hahn]

IF you want to repaint calipers and master cylinders you must use caliper paint. Its formulated to resist harm from brake fluid getting on it. Note the directions state it " fully cures in 7 days ". Im single so i let them set overnight and then bake them in the oven at 200 F for 2 hours..then leave them for the remaining 6 days. Havent had one bubble up yet.

I use regular rattle can paint from auto parts store.

 

[cowboyup3371]

I also need a website that sells ALL the suzuki parts. In norway we have to pay a fee to be granted the priviledge of paying VAT on imports, so making one large order is cheaper than many small ones.

Noreg, do you have to pay VAT on packages from friends? Could maybe someone, even there in Europe, might be able to make the purchases for you, mail it to you as a regular package, then you pay them back for it?

 

[allojohn]

Noreg, do you have to pay VAT on packages from friends? Could maybe someone, even there in Europe, might be able to make the purchases for you, mail it to you as a regular package, then you pay them back for it?

I use this end around when my brother buys parts for his old Harley. He orders from the UK, has them sent to me and I repackage and send on saying they're birthday presents....

 

[Guest]

Noreg, do you have to pay VAT on packages from friends? Could maybe someone, even there in Europe, might be able to make the purchases for you, mail it to you as a regular package, then you pay them back for it?

The limit is a 1000 nok (100 eur/dollars ish). But the VAT isn't really a big deal, its the fees I need to minimize. If I could find a EU store that sells I can ship it post restante to sweden (its like, send it to a post office) and then just drive across the border to pick it up. Abisko (I believe they have a post office) is only two and a half hour away, and I could stack up on cheap swedish alcohol (cheap by Norwegian standards, not by anywhere else standards).

I washed my bike before dropping it off at the shop for the front suspension leak and the steering bearing. When rolling it into the washing area I noticed the brakes only snag once at every tire rotation. Does this indicate that my rotor is warped? It has a noticable groove going around the whole disk.

I am a little tempted to put in a big order at Partzilla for the parts I lack. New airfilter, the nuts, bolts and washers for the oil filter cover, the piston set, the spring, and a new brake rotor. Possibly original mirrors and clutch/brake levers too. And the cam chain tensioner things. It would be pricy (it costs half as much as my bike), but then it would all be good again. It seems maybe that the brake rotors are cheaper other places (a german website has them at $168 dollars).

Restoring my original rotor seems like a good idea, but the idea of being bikeless for weeks while waiting for it in the middle of the seaon seems pretty sad. But Ill definitively keep the old one and bring it when I go to the US next time. Alternatively I could find a used rotor in the US, send it to be refurbished and get it shipped here.

I found a hose with a flowback valve, that is used to bleed brakes. Is this something that would be worthwhile? The vacum pumping thing seems like a massive PITA and I don't have room for all these one off tools.

I guess I could start off by buying the new brake lines, and pads and valve set and springs and piston set and see if that makes a difference.

My Clymer manual says if any grooves can snag a fingernail, if my understanding of snag is correct my rotor can do that, it should be replaced.

 

[Guest]

Have you looked at www.cmsnl.com? I'm not sure what their shipping policy to Norway is, but I know their shipping to the UK is not too bad.

Disc skimming needn't take long - some places over here do it on the vehicle, while you wait.

Finally, discs were common across most of the Suzuki range at the time your bike was built. There are plenty of second-hand discs available with service life left. Your manual will tell you what the service limits are.

Oh, and there's no point fitting pads first, then replacing your disc(s) - get the disc sorted, then fit new pads.

 

[Cipher]

Have you looked at www.cmsnl.com? I'm not sure what their shipping policy to Norway is, but I know their shipping to the UK is not too bad.

Disc skimming needn't take long - some places over here do it on the vehicle, while you wait.

Finally, discs were common across most of the Suzuki range at the time your bike was built. There are plenty of second-hand discs available with service life left. Your manual will tell you what the service limits are.

Oh, and there's no point fitting pads first, then replacing your disc(s) - get the disc sorted, then fit new pads.

isn't it stainless? doesn't it need rotary surface grinding? Is noreg still driving the bike?

 

[Guest]

Have you looked at www.cmsnl.com? I'm not sure what their shipping policy to Norway is, but I know their shipping to the UK is not too bad.

Disc skimming needn't take long - some places over here do it on the vehicle, while you wait.

Finally, discs were common across most of the Suzuki range at the time your bike was built. There are plenty of second-hand discs available with service life left. Your manual will tell you what the service limits are.

Oh, and there's no point fitting pads first, then replacing your disc(s) - get the disc sorted, then fit new pads.

CMSNL seems reasonably priced. At least for the rotor. Shipping was also cheap. I guess tomorrow Ill go through the list and try to get the parts I need, and maybe a few wants too (I sooo want the original mirrors and brake/clutch levers, one of mine is silver, other is super worn black). I also need to get the oil filter cover bolts and nuts and the cam chain tensioner o-rings. Hopefully that will conserve a bit of my oil.

I think its hard to find people that do disc skimming in Norway, the prices for an hour at the shop is like $100, so mostly we just get new parts. When the borders open I can go elsewhere, but not really an option now.

The paint on my disc is somewhat worn too, so a new one would make it look better.

 

[Guest]

isn't it stainless? doesn't it need rotary surface grinding? Is noreg still driving the bike?

I am still riding it. I really don't want to park it for any lenght of time.

I can deal with a slight drag and some wroot wroot wroot sound. But it has started to whine when I brake, which annoys me.

I also want to try to remove the brake lever, to see if it will clear whatever is snagging. Maybe I can just adjust it looser to get more clearance. I need to remove some rust on the lever and get the adjustment bolt out anyways (I broke the top of it).

 

[Guest]

isn't it stainless? doesn't it need rotary surface grinding? Is noreg still driving the bike?

Mass-market discs are cast iron. Over here we'd use a brake lathe, which may well be the same as your rotary surface grinding - i'm not sure about your terminology. Whatever, it's not the same as having a cylinder head skimmed.

Only noreg can answer your third question!