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Guest
Guest
Its like making a scraping noise and its warm even after not using it.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
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G
Guest
Guest
what type of bike is it?
G
Guest
Guest
1981 gs1000g.
My rear brake was dragging until recently too. The pistons are not retracting back into the caliper after the pressure is released leaving the pads too close to the rotor. May be a bit of corrosion on the pistons. May be some crud from old rubber brake lines in there. Likely a bit of jelly looking crud built up from old brake fluid.
If you haven't replaced the original brake lines this is a great time to install stainless steel braided lines and overhaul the calipers. You won't regret it. I was amazed how much easier it was to walk the bike around after this. With the bike up on the center stand, my rear wheel would not spin by hand easily. If I gave it a spin it would stop immediately. Now it spins easily only stopping by the resistence from the drive mechanism.
If you do go with braided brake lines, you'll notice you don't have to squeeze the brake lever as hard either.
If you haven't replaced the original brake lines this is a great time to install stainless steel braided lines and overhaul the calipers. You won't regret it. I was amazed how much easier it was to walk the bike around after this. With the bike up on the center stand, my rear wheel would not spin by hand easily. If I gave it a spin it would stop immediately. Now it spins easily only stopping by the resistence from the drive mechanism.
If you do go with braided brake lines, you'll notice you don't have to squeeze the brake lever as hard either.
G
Guest
Guest
https://imgur.com/a/F3xvqLV
Burque73 that sounds exactly like my issues. There is a picture there. No idea if original...
Burque73 that sounds exactly like my issues. There is a picture there. No idea if original...
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It's also pretty common for the rear brake lever pivot and the hole in the frame to get dirty and corroded and start sticking.
Work the pedal back and forth a few times whilst spraying some schmoo in there and you might free it up. Or take the pedal off, remove the pivot and spring, clean things up and apply a good waterproof grease for a more permanent fix. Getting the spring back in the correct spot can be a bit of a mind-bender, so be careful and maybe take some pics.
Work the pedal back and forth a few times whilst spraying some schmoo in there and you might free it up. Or take the pedal off, remove the pivot and spring, clean things up and apply a good waterproof grease for a more permanent fix. Getting the spring back in the correct spot can be a bit of a mind-bender, so be careful and maybe take some pics.
That Schmoo is great for removing Schmutz. LOL
G
Guest
Guest
Schmoo? Never heard of it
I'm not sure of the exact formula Mr Ringer prefers, but WD-40 should suffice.
2BRacing
Forum Mentor
The very small return hole in the master cylinder could also not be completely open, preventing release of pressure after the brake pedal is released. You would need to remove the fitting that the brake hose goes onto at the rear master cylinder, to get access to that small hole.
Use one piece of wire from a wire brush to clean out the hole.
As mentioned above, the seals in the caliper should be replaced, as well as the brake hose. If the pistons are rusted (pitted), they should also be replaced.
Use only OEM parts for the seals. There is also a seal between the two halves of the caliper that must be replaced (note that it is a special seal with "flat" sides, not "rounded" sides like a o-ring).
Use one piece of wire from a wire brush to clean out the hole.
As mentioned above, the seals in the caliper should be replaced, as well as the brake hose. If the pistons are rusted (pitted), they should also be replaced.
Use only OEM parts for the seals. There is also a seal between the two halves of the caliper that must be replaced (note that it is a special seal with "flat" sides, not "rounded" sides like a o-ring).
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Guest
Guest
I have not. I was planning to, but then I watched a youtube video of someone bleeding the brakes, they poured all the brake fluid onto the tyre. I don't want to ruin my tyres. But I am sure there is a more sensible way.
Should I just go for steel lines? Do they come in like a kit? Or do I have to bend them myself?
The rear brakes works excellently, I find it a lot easier to lock up the rear wheel than the front (both intentionally and incidentally).
I was trying to do a stoppie today, but I can't get it to lift the rear tyre (but I can hear the front tyre locking up). Might just be me being scared though. But I found it much easier on the Yamahas, even with the ABS...
The brake disc also seems unevenly worn, the front ones are perfectly smooth, but the rear wone has a groove where it drags.
Like when I have it apart I feel I should replace everything that is of reasonable cost. Is it a difficult thing to do?
Rijko
Forum Sage
Scraping noise could mean the brake pads are worn to metal.
Have you checked the brake pads ?
disc does look gouged.
Yeah, watch some better YouTube video's, LOL. It's a really simple process and should be performed at a minimum every 5 years. The brake hoses come in braided stainless steel these days, there should be suppliers in Norway, just measure the length of your lines...
In addition.....
I had the pushrod and piston get stuck in the master cylinder bore due to corrosion. I was able to get by with a thorough cleanup, no new parts were neeed.
I had the pushrod and piston get stuck in the master cylinder bore due to corrosion. I was able to get by with a thorough cleanup, no new parts were neeed.
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