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My Ride Is Running Like Crap!

  • Thread starter Thread starter ScottMc1100L
  • Start date Start date
S

ScottMc1100L

Guest
So you buy an old bike, you expect problems. I'm not complaining, but it has gotten far worse. Since my last ride, it sat for maybe two weeks. I rode about 45 miles yesterday and it ran very poorly, popping nearly the whole time decelerating, coughing while accelerating. Time before that it was pretty much just an idle issue which improved (never 100%) after thoroughly warming up. I've put <300 miles total on it since registration.

Two of the four cylinders are running hot (beginning to purple the pipe). I'm just not sure what changed between now and then.

Unless there is something simple to mess around with, I won't be riding it anymore. To the repair shop will be it's next trip as I feel like by running it, I'm doing more harm than good. This is one of the reasons I've not put tires on yet. It has got to run properly first. I finally get it home and I still can't ride 8-[!

Ah, I feel better!;-)
 
You've either developed a vacuum leak or you carbs need cleaned. Check your screen on the petcock and get rid of any inline filters. Check for vacuum leaks at the intake with WD40 and see if the idle dives.
 
Thanks brother `80 1100L owner ;) . I will try that. Lose the inline filter eh? This causes a restriction or something? I installed it as a precaution. The tank is OK, not great. is the filter screen inside the tank enough to do the job?
 
And here I thought I was the only '80 1100L owner on the site! Scott, mine developed the same problem Monday night. I'm going to a carb cleaning with new boots and rings and hope that clears it up. Let you know how it works out.....-Pete
 
the inline filters work great for gravity fed bikes..however since ours are vaccuum fed, the reduce the vac's power, causing less gas to go to the engine causing fuel starvation...
 
errrr...

Suzuki GS bikes do have gravity feed (i.e. no fuel pump).

Vacuum is only used to turn on/off the feed (though on my bike, it appears that the petcock set on PRI feeds more gas than the petcock set on RUN or RES). The critical spec is how many cc's can flow through the inline fuel filter per unit of time.
 
mrquadriga said:
And here I thought I was the only '80 1100L owner on the site! ...
Looks like it's you me and cheff1366. Anyone else:-s ?

Well the weather has been and is supposed to be crappy here till the weekend. I've got lots of work right now anyhow so I will hopefully get to some of the suggestions later Saturday or if not hopefully Sunday.

I stopped by a repair shop yesterday afternoon and asked the owner about getting an appointment. First thing he says is "What kind of bike" When he heard 1980 I could hardly finish the rest when he said, "Sorry too old, can't get parts" I was a bit surprised at that response! I think maybe the guy did not like rice bikes.

Thanks for the input people :-D!
 
Looks 8-) chef. Boy, I'd love to get my engine looking that good.

Here's one of mine that the previous owner had emailed me. I have not really taken any yet aside from some specific areas for parts requests.
SuzukiGS1100Lresized.jpg

When I decided that I wanted to get another bike, my brother was sort of pushing the "cruiser style". I was wanting a sporty (but not cafe racer) style. I came across this one locally in the Want Advertiser, went to look at it, and in the end decided I'd try it. I'll admit, I do like putting my feet up :)!

-Scott
 
Inline fuel filters can restrict flow becasue of the flange mount on the filter. Your fuel line MUST be 5/16" for the entire length, if you use 5/16" line and install an inline fuel filter, the line effectively becomes 1/4" line from the ID of the filter mounts.
 
Jethro said:
Inline fuel filters can restrict flow becasue of the flange mount on the filter. Your fuel line MUST be 5/16" for the entire length, if you use 5/16" line and install an inline fuel filter, the line effectively becomes 1/4" line from the ID of the filter mounts.
Is that only on the big bikes? I have an inline filter on mine with 1/4 polyurethane fuel line all the way and my filter points downward to the carbs. I have no problem with fuel issues and get 59 mpg. Is it because of the smaller carbs(bs 32 ss) i can do this?
 
On Sunday I got some time and pulled the tank & petcock. There was plenty of stuff around the petcock opening and around the base of the petcock. Although the screen looked clean and in good condition, based on the rust particles that I backwashed out of my inline filter (after the petcock screen) I will not be removing it. I wish I had a replacement handy, I put the old one back on after using some carb cleaner on it.
End result? Yesterday the bike seemed slightly at best, better. Took it out tonight and it is back to its tricks :cry: . I can only assune that some of the rust has made it into the carb(s).

Is there an easy way to clean them on the bike or do they have to be removed and disassembled? Should I just pull them off and soak them something?
Any of you locals know of a decent shop where you don't get the run around? I'll travel a bit for a good place, I don't care.

:arrow: Thanks
 
gas

gas

get a pingle valve best flow bolt in 1261fatty at photobucket
 
ScottMc1100L said:
On Sunday I got some time and pulled the tank & petcock. There was plenty of stuff around the petcock opening and around the base of the petcock. Although the screen looked clean and in good condition, based on the rust particles that I backwashed out of my inline filter (after the petcock screen) I will not be removing it. I wish I had a replacement handy, I put the old one back on after using some carb cleaner on it.
End result? Yesterday the bike seemed slightly at best, better. Took it out tonight and it is back to its tricks :cry: . I can only assune that some of the rust has made it into the carb(s).

Is there an easy way to clean them on the bike or do they have to be removed and disassembled? Should I just pull them off and soak them something?
Any of you locals know of a decent shop where you don't get the run around? I'll travel a bit for a good place, I don't care.

:arrow: Thanks
The best thing to do is follow the directions on carb cleaning on this sight and order some o-rings from Robert Barr at www.cycleorings.com and clean them yourself.It not that hard and you will save lots of money to spend on other things for it.
 
But if the rust is coming from your tank, you've simply got to remedy that or your problems will only keep coming back.
 
ScottMc1100L said:
Is there an easy way to clean them on the bike or do they have to be removed and disassembled? Should I just pull them off and soak them something?

You have pod's on your bike just take the carbs off your bike and clean them you won't regret it (someone put that inline filter on for a reason) while you are inside the carbs write down the jet sizes in your carbs and check them against stock or post the sizes up and let someone check to see if the size of jets used are in the ball park for pods, some people put pods on without rejetting.
the something would be gunk or berrymans dip (gallon can) carb cleaner at the local? auto parts

ScottMc1100L said:
Any of you locals know of a decent shop where you don't get the run around? I'll travel a bit for a good place, I don't care.


you get a decent job at home and you don't have to travel.
 
Last edited:
Fuel filter information...

Fuel filter information...

Very interesting thread. I just got back from a 400 mile ride to the Carolina Coast from Charlotte area and fought the fuel flow issue all the way. I have the in line filter that is gathering crud from the tank. To add to the fun, my starter disinigrated internally locking up the motor and having me believe that I had blown the engine. I replaced the starter with a used unit from a used cycle shop in Conway SC. (I was now 200 miles from home.)Then figured out that I damaged the starter clutch and the only way to start the bike was push starting it. This was no small task with the GS 1100 GK. I got it running at the beach house we were staying at and road it home, after trying everything I could think of to fix the fuel starvation problem.(except It died twice on the way home, and my wife helped push start it once, and I push started it once. It ran bad at 3900 rpm 65mph in 5th, but ran strong at higher rpm and higer speeds. I will clean the tank, fix the starter clutch remove the filter and see how it goes.
 
I am one of those lurkers with an 1100L. You did not say which cylinders were hot, but I had a wire break to one of the coils and it produced similar problems till mechanic diagnosed it by pulling on the wires. The insulation on a broken wire stretches.
Hope this helps.
 
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