K
Katarat
Guest
If you put stainless screws in be sure and use anti-sieze with them. I use a little dab of it on the regular screws when I reassymble the carbs anyway. Impact driver works best for me removing them
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Whichever grade of stainless is cheaper -- it'll be fine.
The bowls use M5X16 screws. (To be honest, I normally just use M5X16 for both the tops and the bottoms. I think there's one screw on the top where it hits something, so you just need to add a washer.)
Not sure about the M6 screws for the rails, but there aren't as many of these -- you could get them at your friendly local real hardware store and not be out too horribly much money.
Ace and Do it Best hardware stores usually have a good selection of metric stainless allen head goodies, but it gets spendy if you need more than a few.
I detest Fastenal's perpetually out-of-stock storefronts, but maybe that's just me. I've gotten tons of metric goodies from McMaster-Carr http://mcmaster.com and Bolt Depot http://boltdepot.com
T
TooManyToys
Guest
This is getting nuts.......... when you need screws.
Attached is what I have in my inventory for going through Suzuki carbs.
If you want any of these let me know by PM. I'll sell them to you at my cost + shipping (+ PayPal fees if we can't avoid that).
For covers and bowls I have 5mmx12mm & 5mmx16mm in both standard socket hex and button head. I use the lock washers just like Mukuni under the bowl 16mm bolts. Note that the 5mmx16mm standard socket hex are knurled on the sides while the 12mm are polished smooth. You can sand and polish the knurls off (I do but that's time and $$ extra).
For the tie bars I only use button head 6mmx12mm. This is an example of the screws used on '82 carbs painted black.
Attached is what I have in my inventory for going through Suzuki carbs.
If you want any of these let me know by PM. I'll sell them to you at my cost + shipping (+ PayPal fees if we can't avoid that).
For covers and bowls I have 5mmx12mm & 5mmx16mm in both standard socket hex and button head. I use the lock washers just like Mukuni under the bowl 16mm bolts. Note that the 5mmx16mm standard socket hex are knurled on the sides while the 12mm are polished smooth. You can sand and polish the knurls off (I do but that's time and $$ extra).
For the tie bars I only use button head 6mmx12mm. This is an example of the screws used on '82 carbs painted black.
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G
Geo
Guest
Wow....The carbs.... a work of art :clap:
1
1_v8_merc
Guest
My carb bolt-heads were completely stripped from the previous owner.
So I ended up taking a 6" socket extension, and a small hammer.
I placed the male-end of the Extension on the head of the bolt, and gave it a few good firm hits....not real hard, but firm.
This re-shapes the heads, so you can fit a phillips screw-driver back in there again. Then I took my good craftsman screwdriver, stuck it in, and hit THAT with a hammer a couple times, to REALLY drive the bit down in there.
(the bolts are zinc/steel, so they strip easily, but you can also re-shape them easily too!)
Then, with the carb-rack locked between some boards, on the floor, I lean over-top of everything, get a good grip on my screw-driver and just lock my hands,arms and torso, and just put ALL my upper-weight down on the screwdriver, and then TURN my body.
Popped loose every time.
Worked like a charm, and considering every bolt was stripped from the previous owner, I got all of em loose like this.
Plus I used a heat-lamp, and Liquid Wrench.
Liquid Wrench is a MUST HAVE, haha.
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Oh yeah, I got ALL of my replacement screws from Lowes.
I went with straight steel bolts this time.
The top ones are like 7mm socket-heads, because I prefer socket wrenches! Lol
The bottom ones are Phillips heads, but have a much Larger head on them, so it's much easier to grip.
When you tighten the new bolts, only do it SNUG...DO NOT GO NUTS WITH TIGHTENING THEM!
Close them until it gets tight-ish, then maybe 1/4 turn more, thats it!
Trust me, it feels like there's plenty of turn left sometimes, but AVOID making this mistake and over-tightening them.
It really takes very little to get em just snug enough.
So I ended up taking a 6" socket extension, and a small hammer.
I placed the male-end of the Extension on the head of the bolt, and gave it a few good firm hits....not real hard, but firm.
This re-shapes the heads, so you can fit a phillips screw-driver back in there again. Then I took my good craftsman screwdriver, stuck it in, and hit THAT with a hammer a couple times, to REALLY drive the bit down in there.
(the bolts are zinc/steel, so they strip easily, but you can also re-shape them easily too!)
Then, with the carb-rack locked between some boards, on the floor, I lean over-top of everything, get a good grip on my screw-driver and just lock my hands,arms and torso, and just put ALL my upper-weight down on the screwdriver, and then TURN my body.
Popped loose every time.
Worked like a charm, and considering every bolt was stripped from the previous owner, I got all of em loose like this.
Plus I used a heat-lamp, and Liquid Wrench.
Liquid Wrench is a MUST HAVE, haha.
-------------
Oh yeah, I got ALL of my replacement screws from Lowes.
I went with straight steel bolts this time.
The top ones are like 7mm socket-heads, because I prefer socket wrenches! Lol
The bottom ones are Phillips heads, but have a much Larger head on them, so it's much easier to grip.
When you tighten the new bolts, only do it SNUG...DO NOT GO NUTS WITH TIGHTENING THEM!
Close them until it gets tight-ish, then maybe 1/4 turn more, thats it!
Trust me, it feels like there's plenty of turn left sometimes, but AVOID making this mistake and over-tightening them.
It really takes very little to get em just snug enough.
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B
brianedonovan
Guest
Thanks! Worked like a charm.
Got to hear the sweet sound of the screws cracking loose!
Brian
Got to hear the sweet sound of the screws cracking loose!
Brian
G
gs1000emt
Guest
Got my intake boot ss screws and orings from robert barr. Very prompt service. I am very pleased. Many other folks on here have said the same also.