Neew suggestions for removing screws from carbs?

[wirelessguy]

Finally managed to get my carbs off the bike. the plate that holds the choke cable was something of an issue. I finally got the cable threaded back out by adding tons of WD40 into the small metal pipe (so I could physically remove the carbs from the bike) but the screws attached to the plate are just suck on there good.

Here's a photo of the plate...

I assume many of these screws will be tough to get off (and I may replace with the hex screws once done). The screws that hold the plate down are starting to strip and I assume that others will too.

Does anyone out there have a good suggestion for removing the screws? I hate to go drilling unless I have to b/c I don't want to have to re-thread anything.

I'm going to try and spray WD40 on many of them but I was wondering if heating them with a a small torch might loosen them up (after I've let everything air out for a few days of course).

Let me know if you have any suggestions.

 

[salty_monk]

Used an impact driver on mine... Worked fine. You generally should have one for these bikes anyway. $15 at Kragen or similar.

If you completely strip them then dremel a slot and use the straight one with the impact hammer.

Soaking in kroil or decent oil not WD40 would help too...

 

[hampshirehog]

Those are easy to grab with a pair of mole grips as well.

 

[Runningdog]

+2 on the impact driver...then replace them with Allen heads.....

 

[tom203]

No problem with small vice-grip- clamp on real tight and twist!

 

[Guest]

I like to let em sit for a few days hitting em with PB Blaster several times a day.
The impact driver is great advise as well. Cant work on these old things without it.
After you get the tops and bowls off do the few days thing with internal screws and jets as well.
Patience is key when dealing with these kinda things.

 

[SVSooke]

Learned the lesson of good(not WD40) penetrating oil here.Used it on the exhaust bolts on all the bike I got(see sig thread)and have not stripped one yet.Not being one to tempt fate to many times I'm putting SS studs in.Go for the Allen's

They are way easier to work with than Phillips.Those choke holder screws are a little longer than the rest to.Ask me how I know

 

[spyug]

As mentioned, an impact wrench and good penetrating oil are the way to go. WD40 is not a penetrating oil so its not really going to help, something like Deep Creep, BP Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Honey Goo or the like would be much better.

Once they are out, replacing with 6mm cap screws is definitely the way to go as you will need to rip into them again at some point.

One other little tip. When putting in the float bowl gaskets, rub a little axle grease into both sides of the gasket. This will allow the gasket to be reused and it will seperate cleanly if and when the float bowls are removed.

Have fun with it.

cheers,
spyug

 

[bobthebiker88]

Used an impact driver on mine... Worked fine. You generally should have one for these bikes anyway. $15 at Kragen or similar.

If you completely strip them then dremel a slot and use the straight one with the impact hammer.

Soaking in kroil or decent oil not WD40 would help too...

This.

I find that a flat head screw bit in a 1/4" socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet allows for good downforce, AND leverage, which is helpful. but SLOT THE SCREW first. dont be afraid to cut it good and deep so your bit gets a good bite on the head. I've had to do this on pretty effectively EVERY carburetor I've ever touched. I've considered hex head machine screws too, well worth it as replacements, since those conventionals suck.

 

[Steve]

... but SLOT THE SCREW first. ...

Here is one way to do that.

Use the large cut-off wheel in your Dremel Rotary Tool.

.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Different Method and It Works

Different Method and It Works

Use a punch with a flat head (like a nail punch), or drift, place it against the side of the head of the screw and give it a good swipe with a hammer which knocks the screw head sideways slightly (not noticeable to the naked eye). Then just undo the screw as normal. Works every time for me. Did all my carbs screws this way and also the screws that hold the carb boots onto the head. Try it before dismissing it.

 

[old_chopper]

I used penetrating oil (PB blaster) and a small pair of vice grips. They came right out, then replaced with socket head cap screws (allen head).

 

[mlinder]

If they still wont come out (I've had it happen numerous times) just use a drill bit that is bigger than the threaded section of the screw, drill down til the head of the screw comes off. Once the pressure is relieved, they will screw right out the bottom with needle nose.

 

[TooManyToys]

First, make sure you are using a JIS screwdriver, not a Phillips. Soak with PB Blaster. If the cross does get stripped, as mentioned I always have luck with my mini- curved jaw vice grips.

If you get to the point of needing to drill them out, sometimes my use of a reverse twist (counter-clockwise) drill bit bites into the remaining metal and unscrews the screw.

 

[chuck hahn]

Impact drivers work well to save the heads of tight screws. If the "cross" gets messed up you can dremel an straight slot in as well. Put a lot of downward pressure on a screwdriver to be sure its getting max grip and wont twist up the cross too much..using the proper sized screwdirver helps a lot too. Too many times the wrong size is used and that will just casue damage .

 

[wirelessguy]

Argh, I just can't catch a break.

I've been making some progress on prying the carbs apart and finally Dremeled the first set of screw enough to drill them out of the first two carbs.

I intended to replace with hex cap screws but when I tried to put them in they were too small. :-( I trusted the ebay auction which listed the GS1100 as a model they fit.

**So be forewarned, the GS1100EZ looks like it uses M5 (5mm) cap screws ans not 4mm ones.**

No word yet on whether the vendor has 5mm screws or will even consider a swap/refund, so I may have a full set (32pcs) avail. shortly.

While I don't mind wrenching my own bike this whole process has met with challenges every step of the way. As this point, I'm just happy that I've given this all winter and didn't tell myself this was a weekend or two job.

 

[Nessism]

Did you get an impact driver like suggested? Did you try vice grips on the screw heads before resorting to drilling out the screws? What exactly is the problem? Describe in detail and maybe we can help.

 

[sparki]

screws he bought were 4mm when he needed 5mm.. impact driver everytime works a treat. 5 minutes to remove.

 

[850 Combat]

Use a punch with a flat head (like a nail punch), or drift, place it against the side of the head of the screw and give it a good swipe with a hammer which knocks the screw head sideways slightly (not noticeable to the naked eye). Then just undo the screw as normal. Works every time for me. Did all my carbs screws this way and also the screws that hold the carb boots onto the head. Try it before dismissing it.

I did this with my old 1100G. I hate to resort to it, but when all else fails... It is best to replace the screws after though. I usually notch the side of the screw with a chisel, then break it free with a punch.

My step dad tought me this 40 years ago. He could do a lot without having the money to own proper tools. The only home mechanic I ever knew to rebuild an automatic transmission.

 

[wirelessguy]

screws he bought were 4mm when he needed 5mm.. impact driver everytime works a treat. 5 minutes to remove.

Correct.

It's not so much the screw removal that has me ticked but the simple fact that nothing seems to go right the first time around. (and when I say nothing I mean nothing).


So quick question for the group. Guy was gracious enough to offer a refund on the 4mm screws but now I need to figure out what exactly would be the correct versions. I know that they are M5 / 5mm and I tested one of the screw on the carb cap can found it to be 14mm long (just the thread, not including head of screw).

Fastenal has two poss part numbers and I'm unsure of the difference?
M5-0.8 x 14mm DIN 912 A2 S/S 18-8 Socket Head Cap Screw (A2 Grade)
SKU: MS2540014A20000

M5 x 14 A-4 Socket Head Cap Screw (A4 grade)
SKU: MS2540014A40000

Any thoughts for me?

Also, anyone know what the other screw dimensions might be for either the screws holding in the bowl bottoms or the two plates (or do I leave those as Philips)?

Thanks.