New-2-Me '80 GS750L

[Hoosier Daddy]

I've been wanting to start a thread of the build on my ’80 GL750L, I got on the ball and made some headway. Today I got something worth posting. Having done a couple Hondas this is my first Suzuki. If you saw my intro you may remember I got this bike offered to me by a guy that works for me who wanted his garage space back. He bought the bike as a project of his own, then a few spares including another carb rack from an 850… but lost interest before he even started. I loaded the trailer and carted her home for $50. She’s been neglected but the engine turns by hand, supposedly fired on Starting fluid when he got it, but the shifter is stuck.





Yesterday I spent a couple hours in the shop removing the body work and headlamp to get to the wiring and took several pics of the harness / components and familiarized myself with the layout.
Today we got down to business! I started disconnecting at the headlamp bucket and worked my way back with a roll of masking tape, box of Baggies and a fine Sharpie, bagging parts and labeling each connection. If you haven’t reassembled a bike a couple months after you took it apart, this is the best advice I can give!!! Also use the “Freezer Bags” as they have a nice place to write the contents on for future reference.
After getting the Rt/Lft controls, gauge cluster, and turn signals disconnected and removed. Here is the bundle left from the Headlight…



Then came the carbs (whew) Not as bad as an early GoldWing but reading the carb page here sure helped! One of the PO’s didn’t bother tightening the clamps on the center 2 boots at the air box and the boot was wrinkled on #3... wonder how well she ran?



Next came the, coils, other small bits from the main harness, and then took the panel for the fusebox, Reg/Rect, solenoid off as an assembly.





I did learn a few things on the way. The reason it didn’t shift was the shaft was seized in the cover, found that when I pulled the chain. A liberal amount of PB Blaster and a little light heat and a couple whacks with the soft-faced mallet and we are golden. When I pulled the exhaust, I also discovered She has a 16 valve head!
Finally, I got to the point of accomplishing the big goal for the day. With the Floor jack, wood blocks and a Dolly I made up a while back, here is where we sit tonight… Not bad for a afternoon’s work!!!

 

[haztoys]

Looks like a keeper good find ... Whats the plan ..??

Back to stock on the bike ...OR...?

David

Hazardous Toys inc

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

"OR"
Thinking Brat style but thats a ways off, still taking inventory of what I have to work with here.
Buddy is trying to talk me into making my first Dragbike out of it... Uh-oh... this can't be good.

 

[SVSooke]

You are new to the wonderful world of Suzuki's aren't you? Good thing I wasn't trying to swallow when I seen that 16 valve comment.Guess I've been a Suzi guy for to long BTW on older Suzuki's round ends are 2valve per cylinder engines,trapezoidal like you have are 4valve engines.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Yep, to use the terminology of todays youth... "Total Zookie Noob"! Thats what brought me here. My bike building history started on a pair of BSA A-65's back in the early '80s. Spent 17 years as an Automotive Tech at Dealerships, but the last 15 have been in Industrial Maintenance. Recently re-emerged to Bikes with late 70's- early 80's Hondas.
That said, I need a new manual. This one that came with the bike is supposedly (and appears) a scan of a Factory manual then put in a Binder. The PO said he got it from New Zealand (copywrite laws?). The cover states GS750 - GS750E - GS750L 1976-1980. It has a sections in the back for the revisions for the "E", "L" and "for USA" L models. My bike is an '80 built 12/79, but I have already found some discrepancies. Mine has CV carbs and the 4-valve head, and these are not listed. Really want to know sevice limits, torque specs, etc. I hear the 4 valve has rockers and not shims for the valve lash adjustment, thats a relief.
Time to shift gears and do more research here!

 

[SVSooke]

Here's the link to the proper manual from BassCliff's(aka BikeCliff) website.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS750_16valve.pdf should be all the information you really need in there,sounds like you have an 2valve manual.Hope the link works,all I'm getting is a white screen.

 

[Steve]

..,all I'm getting is a white screen.

While you are watching your "white screen", take a look in the lower left corner. I saw a download status counter running there. It has to download a 17MB manual, so it will take a while, depending on your connection speed to the interweb.

.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks guy's I was heading there via my BikeCliff welcome package but got side tracked on other great info there... then saw your replies.
Much appreciated!

 

[SVSooke]

Yeah this is a easy place to get distracted.That's why I favorited BassCliff's site.I'm impatient waiting for stuff I don't need.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

My ISP,Hughesnet, has a time frame that is open to Meg rate transfer which just so happen s to be when my insomniac butt wakes up. So today from 3:30am untill know I downloaded the PDF's for service manual, color wiring schematic, BS32SS Carb manual, and the 16 Valve adjustment guide.
Nice little library we have here! I can use BikeBandit for the parts microfische but they tend to only list their part #'s I'll be poking around to see if there is somewhere that has actualy factory #'s.
THIS PLACE ROCKS!
Upon some close examination yesterday, this old engine is really clean! All gaskets seem to be sealed well as there is no evidence of oil leaks. If all works out, todays goal is to connect a charged battery with my remote starter switch and spin the engine over with the starter to run a base line compression test.

 

[Guest]

My ISP,Hughesnet, has a time frame that is open to Meg rate transfer which just so happen s to be when my insomniac butt wakes up. So today from 3:30am untill know I downloaded the PDF's for service manual, color wiring schematic, BS32SS Carb manual, and the 16 Valve adjustment guide.
Nice little library we have here! I can use BikeBandit for the parts microfische but they tend to only list their part #'s I'll be poking around to see if there is somewhere that has actualy factory #'s.
THIS PLACE ROCKS!
Upon some close examination yesterday, this old engine is really clean! All gaskets seem to be sealed well as there is no evidence of oil leaks. If all works out, todays goal is to connect a charged battery with my remote starter switch and spin the engine over with the starter to run a base line compression test.

Babbittts sports center has OEM #

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Had to charge the battery yesterday so today I was anble to get the compression test done with the engine on the dolly.
145, 140, 140 and 150. Not too bad I think. Spec in the manual was anything over 100-110 was good and not too much deviation. I suppose I could have ran the numbers dry before I put penetrating oil in the cylinders but I had already sprayed down pretty good in the plug holes when I first got it and let it set a few nights before trying to turn it by hand. Then once that was done I hosed it again to pickel it until I knew the direction to take. I wouldn't think with only 13,000 miles on the clock the rings would be too worn.
So unless someone chimes in different, at this point I see no reason to tear deep into the engine. Next will be to cover the intake and exhaust ports to clean it up well. Then I can pull the cam cover and check the condition / valve adjust.

 

[Steve]

Babbittts sports center has OEM #

Actually, they all do, except for Bike Bandit.

.

 

[Testarossa]

I wouldn't tear it down with those compression readings. The penetrating oil may push them up a little, but I can't imagine it affecting the compression too much. Change the oil, check valve lash, and a good tune up should get you running.

 

[Flyboy]

Nice project there, definitely a keeper, I would think, and good sound motor amd foundation to start with.
I will be following this one with interest.
I would keep it stock, I think it is criminal to take a saw or grinder to any bike unless it isn't economically viable to take back to original condition......but that is just me.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

So far I have not cut any frame on any of my projects, simply removed OEM items. That way if there is ever a desire to return it back to stock it can easily be done. Now that I have removed the fenders and brakes on this and it is down to a bare roller, I think I have a good chance of going the same way again. Other than the rear peg / exhaust mount tri-angle portion.... it just looks out of place.
Time will tell I guess

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Got the fenders off and wiped them down with penetrating oil, they should clean up nicely. Front and rear brakes are off. Fronts resivour was empty, the rear had fluid but did not release when gently applied, glad I didn't stomp on it before removal.
So I will try and "clean" the calipers and master cylinders up... but past experiance says a rebuild is in order.
But man she sure looks good all naked! Getting close to be able to start prepping the frame.

 

[Testarossa]

I had the exact same issues with mine when I got it home. My empty front reservoir turned out to be a bad o-ring where the plastic reservoir sits inside the master cylinder. I was able to carefully dis-assemble all of my calipers and clean them out. The rubber parts were still in good shape, so I took a chance and stuck it back together. Seems to be working for now. Rebuild kits are cheap insurance however.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

"Hope for the best but expect the worst" has always been my moto when it comes to 30 year old bikes...
WOW my lil CB is going to be 40 next year!

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Another good time in the shop, after a couple hours I have it down to a bare frame. Now comes all the inspection, clean-up, sorting of what I want to keep or sell to finance the build. Then the painting and polishing of the keepers.... Good times ahead!



Boxs-O-Bike!



Honestly all that rust visible from the beginning appears to be only on the surfaces. Inside she seems quite nice. Everything still well lubed and came apart fairly well.
But all that aluminum is so corroded she is going to need a lot of scotchbrite, 4-ought steel-wool, and polishing.





Hard to see now in the shop lighting but these fork lowers need the same level of attention. Fortunatly, after the last bike build, I had a grease zert installed in my elbow and I got a couple months until painting weather here.