• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

New GS1100 G Restoration Project. Rebuilding my Dad's bike

Result and a nice write up. That bit of patience, persistence and thought has saved you a whole heap of grief.

Studs on the rebuild or stainless allen bolts with plenty of copperslip?
 
Cheers Hampshire.

It's really motivating to overcome a big obstacle like this. I can get the exhausts off and start on engine removal.

Now I need to find a bike ramp or one of those lifts that would allow me to lift it up to working height, take the running gear off and still be able to wheel it around the garage.

Greetings
 
Great to see you get past the exhaust bolt stage. I use 50% ATF and 50% acetone for helping get bolts loose. It seems to work well.

cg
 
go stainless!

go stainless!

London,I'm with hampshire on this,go with stainless allen headed,Inox sell them for 60-70p each,provide a good service and should be with you in 48 hours,I used them for my GS/GSX hybrid.At least thats one major headache out of the way!,good luck with the rest of the re-build.Johnny
 
Day 57 Exhaust Mufflers and Headers Off

Day 57 Exhaust Mufflers and Headers Off

So with the exhaust bolts firmly behind me I now get to take off the complete exhaust system. Oh my what a mess. They are in quite poor shape. Lots of rust powder poured out from the header pipes and both mufflers have rattling baffles and holes in their skins.

Can these be refurbished? I know replacements are not available. So what next?

Here's the blog entry: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/exhaust-pipes-removed-day-57.html

P1040497.jpg


P1040499.jpg


P1040500.jpg


P1040502.jpg


P1040505.jpg


Not sure I can even salvage the headers as they are welded on to the mufflers.
 
Hampshire - actually it's not THAT expensive. I will set up an Ebay search alert I think. I was really hoping someone might be able to cut them open, derust, repair baffles and then put back together. But that would probably cost more than the US set. Then there is the re-chroming. Initial enquiries show this would be in the region of ?500 plus. But the US ones needed re-chroming too. This is getting very costly.
 
Last edited:
Workspace

Workspace

I need to do something to make some space in the garage. I have to bring the project inside now for the winter. Any ideas?

P1040526.jpg

I am boxing up all the part and putting them away for now.
P1040514.jpg


P1040517.jpg
 
Day 59 Instrument Removal

Day 59 Instrument Removal

Took the instruments off at last. Something was living inside my speedo and it has deposited stuff all over, including I believe on the glass. So this leads me to think I will not need to replace the glass (thanks Hampshire). I still have to get the glass off by removing the retaining band, so I will be able to check it then. But the glass has to come off in any case as I have to change the facias (which will be supplied by: will.barber@bentley.co.uk). I need to have one to show MPH which means I need to change them both. Oh the joy, I have to remove both glasses!

See the daily blog entry: GS1100 Blog

P1040537.jpg


P1040548.jpg


P1040550.jpg


P1040552.jpg


P1040560.jpg


Anyone get any other tricks to remove the glass?

Greetings
 
Taking a look at the air suspension today. I always thought it was original equipment and it does carry a Suzuki sticker. It's just that I have not seen any other GS1100 G examples with this type of suspension:

Link to the blog: Restoration Blog



P1040437.jpg


Not sure if I need to get these refurbished or if I should just change them out for a new pair.

Greetings

Hi,
Just caught up on your project - great project! Good job on the header bolts too - lots of trouble saved there.

These are Suzuki GS 1100GK air shocks. About $500 new to replace IIRC. If I were you, I'd try to clean them up a bit, test 'em and use if possible.

Good luck with the project. I know it seems big, but the benefit is a beautiful, road worthy and dependable ride that has sentimental value and real value too.

Scott
 
Scott - thanks for that. They do appear to be in good condition and I have found a guy in the UK here who can strip them down, put new seals in and rechrome. A bit expensive but I will probably do it anyway.

You don't happen to know the difference in the GS1100 G models do you? I have on my GS main engine and barrells painted black and it was originally like that but I see the same model with completely bare metal engines that also look original.

Greetings
 
Day 60 Front Brake Reservoir Problem - Screw Stripped

Day 60 Front Brake Reservoir Problem - Screw Stripped

I was doing so well getting the exhaust bolts out without a problem now I have my first stripped screw. To make matters worse it is a flush sitting screw so I can't hacksaw a groove into it.

Any ideas?

See the blog entry here: Blog (100s of hi res photos)

P1040570.jpg


P1040561.jpg


P1040566.jpg


P1040564.jpg
 
A sharp easy out will help.

Get the right drill bit for the easy out and just drill in enough to make it bite then try to unscrew.
In that thread size you may not get one small enough so see what they have.

Another option is a reverse bit, it loosens the screw as you drill and may knock it loose.
 
Bevo - You will have to educate us poor people on the wrong side of the Atlantic as to what is a: Sharp Easy Out.

I don't know what it is.

Greetings
 
Day 63 Progress Report

Day 63 Progress Report

I am keeping up the momentum on this project - fear not. Today I continued to remove the headlamp shell, the handlebar switchgear, the instruments, wiring routing and other such stuff.

Check out the blog here: GS11200 Blog

P1040534.jpg


P1040581-001.jpg


P1040571.jpg


P1040590.jpg


This last pic looks like someone has really gone to town on the stator wire connections. Does this taping and soldering (I can't pull them apart - so I will have to snip them) look OEM?

Greetings
 
Last edited:
That'll be a replacement non OE reg/rec. They have three yellow wires, a red and a black.
Here are the connections FYI:
Red-Red
Black-Chassis/ground
Yellow-Yellow
Yellow-White with blue tracer
Yellow-white with red tracer

The green + yellow wire on the left is the feed from the start button to the solenoid.
Not sure what the other two are with the white connector block but I don't think they're related to the charge system
 
Last edited:
This Forum is truly amazing. Just can't imagine there is a guy somewhere on the planet who has experienced the exact same issue that I have on a piece of equipment that is 29 years old. Brilliant. And thanks for that post. Really appreciate it.

Greetings
 
Back
Top