New needles or what?

[Blower]

I?ve been done some test rides with my Scraps racer.
First it does nont want to accelerate at all.
Then I lif the needles to the highest position.
Now it runs a much better, but far from good. Should I change the place
of the thin metal washer and thicker plasitic washer in the needle
or buy other needles, bigger main jets, higher fuel lewel or...?

Engine is standard EFE engine, oem air box with free flow filter, oem headers with
home made free flow mufflers. Fuel level is by the manual, main jets are 130.

 

[Steve]

Engine is standard EFE engine, oem air box with free flow filter, oem headers with
home made free flow mufflers. Fuel level is by the manual, main jets are 130.

This information is good, but won't help much until we also know what bike it is.

.

 

[Blower]

This information is good, but won't help much until we also know what bike it is.

.

1985 Suzuki GS 1150 EFE / GSX 1135 EFE (euro modell)

 

[Blower]

I installed the Dynojet stage 3 kit. 138 mains and needles in third groove. It dies to fuel, when opening the throttle, so I change the oem needles back. Now the bike runs good (needles lifted to max), except 2000 - 3500 steady cruising. It gets too much fuel.
Pilot screws are adjusted to the best idle (3 turns open).

Qestion;
Should I adjust the pilot screws leaner, change the air jets from 120 to 160 or lower the fuel level 1 mm?

 

[TheCafeKid]

I installed the Dynojet stage 3 kit. 138 mains and needles in third groove. It dies to fuel, when opening the throttle, so I change the oem needles back. Now the bike runs good (needles lifted to max), except 2000 - 3500 steady cruising. It gets too much fuel.
Pilot screws are adjusted to the best idle (3 turns open).

Qestion;
Should I adjust the pilot screws leaner, change the air jets from 120 to 160 or lower the fuel level 1 mm?

RPMs mean little. Steady cruising in what throttle position? 1/8 turn? 1/4 turn??

What intake and exhaust on the bike?

Edit I
See now. 138 main is too large. Kit should have had some smaller mains in it (132, 114 iirc) try 114 main. Needle clip in the second slot up from the point. Stage "2" technically. Stage three is for pods, and four to one pipe. Use their (DJ) needles. They're better than stock. Even if the bike is stock.

 

[Carter Turk]

Stock 1150 main jets in the U.S. are 120 for 1-4 122.5 for 2-3.

My wife's 1150 engine is stock with Yosh header and stage 3 kit, K&N's. Runs well with 135 mikuni mains (not DJ) 2.5-3 turns on the mixture screws. I haven't checked the needles or pilots in a long while so I don't want to guess what they are. Just sharing for reference.

 

[Blower]

RPMs mean little. Steady cruising in what throttle position? 1/8 turn? 1/4 turn??

What intake and exhaust on the bike?

Edit I
See now. 138 main is too large. Kit should have had some smaller mains in it (132, 114 iirc) try 114 main. Needle clip in the second slot up from the point. Stage "2" technically. Stage three is for pods, and four to one pipe. Use their (DJ) needles. They're better than stock. Even if the bike is stock.

Steady cruising in about 1/8 throttle.
DynoJet needles are 2.5mm and oem`s 3mm before the clip slots, so maybe smaller main jets are enough for the full power. Smaller mains maybe don?t "over fuel" the low end with thinner DJ needles.

 

[Blower]

Today I tested the DynoJet 118 mains and DJ needles with clips to last groove (leanest).
Before that I adjusted the float levels to 1 mm lower.
Bike starts well, but when warmed up it dies, when twisting the throttle.
It get a way too much fuel with the DJ needles.
I put back oem needles lifted to the max and oem mains drilled to 140 (= 1.40 mm).
I adjust the float level 1mm lower before dj tests.
Lower fuel level made 1/8 throttle cruising a little bit better with oem needles and 140 mains.

Now the bike runs good, idles good and starts good. Only problem is 1/8 throttle cruising.
Does the bigger air jet help that low speed 1/8 throttle over rich a/f ratio?

 

[Blower]

Problem fixed with bigger air jets.