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New to me GS1100GL, doesn't fire

  • Thread starter Thread starter Vamisk
  • Start date Start date
V

Vamisk

Guest
Hey everyone i just bought a 1982 1100. Unfortunately this thing doesn't run but before I really go messing with it i wanted to learn a few things.

1. The shifter feels loose and also doesn't appear to shift into any gear when sitting. Does this indicate shift fork wear? I haven't checked to see if there is any gear oil
2. The motorcycle doesn't start, with a fresh battery there was slow cranking and i did smell gas so i suspect the carbs are functional. Does the ignition circuit depend on anything in the instrument cluster? The tail light isn't wired right now and i noticed the dash is dead when the ignition is on (headlight works)
3.Does anyone know what these numbers mean? Are they just casting numbers?

Thanks in advance.
20181118_112145.jpg
 
As far as I know the long number is the engine number the other that looks like 3000ml 3.2 us qt is the quantity of engine oil required to do an oil change.
 
Welcome to GSR.

Does ignition rely on anything in the instrument cluster? Not really.

Headlight on indicate that have power to igntion?
No.
Ignition is on a seperate fuse from headlight fuse.
But Ignition fuse powers the ignition and the starter button-solenoid circuit, so if it is cranking over by the starter button, then know the ignition fuse is good.

Better check of the ignition is to have a sparkplug grounded on the enginehead and look for spark.
Better way to check any electrical problem is with a volt meter.

Fuses are Headlight, Ignition, Signal and Main.

Do tell us more. Many folks here willing to help.

.
 
I'll start messing with it on Thanksgiving. Unfortunately i go to school and work 40 hours a week so time is very limited however i get a whole two days off on Thanksgiving and Black Friday. If this thread closes before then i'll make a new one in the electrical forum.
 
Please check the Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature. It will help guide you on bringing the bike back.
 
20181120_094616.jpg

I found these two wires dangling. Obviously they attach to the battery but is one of them a ground? Sorry about the rookie questions but I know next to nothing about electricity. All the fuses are fine and the headlight/high beam works. The transmission is shifting now but it feels like it has no oil. Only half the gear position lights work though.
 
.............

I found these two wires dangling. Obviously they attach to the battery ............

Looks like for some aftrermarket accessory that someone has added. Looks like goes a little ways then is butt-crimp connected to something else. Can you see what the something else is?

I doubt it is in anyway related to your "not firing".

I say that does look like maybe meant for the two auxillary power terminal on the bottom of the fuse block.


You find anymore about not firing?
Good that you checked the fuses. Is better to check the wires comming out of the fuseblock with a volt meter, rather than just looking at the fuses. (Plus, that would be a good way to start getting familiar with something of the wiring.)



.
 
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Unfortunately I think that the problem is electrical. I sprayed a touch of carb cleaner in one carb and it didnt even cough. I'm wary about using starting fluid on old vacuum diaphragms but I did forget to check and see if the petcock was open. Next time I get som free time I'm going to check the plugs and see if they spark.
Those two wires are wrapped into the main harness so I can't tell where they go.
 
Try moving the rear wheel back and forth while checking the shifting. The transmission needs to be turning in order to shift properly.

Your approach to working in this bike is going to just lead to wasted time. You should pull the carbs and go through them straight away. The bike won't run for crap, if at all, with pod filters unless you rejet the carbs either.
 
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Those two wires are wrapped into the main harness so I can't tell where they go.

Oh !!
the two wires with ring terminals are crimped to two wires in the bikes main harness......?? original wires from the main harness??
Oh !!
SOunds like someone has really rigged up something.
Can you see the color(s) of those two wires that go into the main wire harness. Tell us, or maybe you can find them on the schematic.

.
 
View attachment 56811

I found these two wires dangling. Obviously they attach to the battery but is one of them a ground? Sorry about the rookie questions but I know next to nothing about electricity. All the fuses are fine and the headlight/high beam works. The transmission is shifting now but it feels like it has no oil. Only half the gear position lights work though.


Look and see if the wires to the fuel gauge are connected, they are on the left side of the tank in the tunnel. They look like the wires to the gauge to me.

V
 
Good news and bad news, I got the bike to fire with a charger on the battery and holding it wide open, bad news it sounds like the ignition timing is wrong. I had this happen with my old Honda Sabre when I reinstalled the starter clutch. It won't run in this condition and the cylinder lock is warm to the touch. It won't crank unless the clutch lever is pulled. Is that standard to these bikes? Plugs are a little dirty but not too bad. Still tracing those wires.

@nessism, it's not that I'm ignoring you because I'm 100% sure the carbs weren't rejetted but my first goal is to figure out why I have no ignition. As it turns out, the carbs were good but the tank was empty. I'll be going through them before this bike hits the road though.
 
The starter clutch / stator will have nothing to do with the ignition timing on this bike...and it's highly unlikely that the timing is off unless the signal coil plate fell off. Be happy it fired, but beware of a big charger gizmo, an electrical surge can fry your ignitor. Your carbs need thorough cleaning,so no sense looking for something else to blame.
 
Well do the pod filters provide any advantage or are they just for looks? If not I'm going to go back to the stock airbox. Someone also installed a 4-1 header which i heard does bump power a little bit but that's going to stay stuck on there. I tried doing a quick search o whether anyone has a reference for jet sizes but I couldn't find anything

Spark plugs are sparking correctly. Looks like it's time to clean the carbs finally.

At least they aren't as hard to remove as a Honda V4.
 
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Well do the pod filters provide any advantage or are they just for looks? If not I'm going to go back to the stock airbox. Someone also installed a 4-1 header which i heard does bump power a little bit but that's going to stay stuck on there. I tried doing a quick search o whether anyone has a reference for jet sizes but I couldn't find anything ?..
Here's a stock jetting chart..

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/carbspec_float_height.html#A01

Done right, decent pods will give you a performance plus, probably at a little sacrifice of low /midrange. If you had the stock airbox/ filter setup, it would be easier on you to get it running nice.
take the carb's apart and note jet sizes . Beware of geniuses that drill out jets on their power search!
 
I thought you guys might be interested in seeing what trash i found while removing the carbs.
20181123_150006.jpg

huh looks like i need new boots.
 
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