No charging while running, flickering lights and that dang popping.

[timebombprod]

Had bike running smooth last week with an acception of a bit of idle climbing, but I really was happy with how it was compared to what it was before on the low end. I was at 3 and a half turns out on the stock pilots and I was told at that point I should be uosizing the pilots. Had to wait a week for some pilot plugs but once I got those I put them in and changed the pilots to 45.

Started at one turn out, slowly went up to around 3 turns at this point. Still had the bike hanging its idle, sometimes itd go down to a close to normal pace, sometimes it wouldnt at all, didnt seem to matter the turns out I did.

I was having my neutral light(and the rest) flickering around a little bit while I was doing this but my idle wasnt getting affected, after testing plenty of turns, so bike off and back on multiple times, I started to get flickering really bad and it would go lower than idle and want to shut off, pulled out the multimeter and the batteries voltage wouldnt change when the bike was being revved.


I have a Rick's stator, new sh775, new dyna coils and ignition, the coil relay mod, and the carbs are clean.


I'm going to move the regulator ground to the negative battery terminal and put the negative battery ground to a new spot to see if it stops messing around but I'm just getting tired of it, last week was great, this week its acting like it's on its last limbs again.

Compression is good, I'm gonna be checking coil voltage again, carbs are good. This darn thing is not good.


Itd be awesome if somebody around me could come and help!

 

[timebombprod]

Voltage at coils is perfectly fine.

 

[timebombprod]

Questions I need to ask to possibly help, how do I test stator, and how do i test regulator. Can i test them without the bike running or does it have to be on?

Anything i should check other than these?

 

[timebombprod]

Coukd it be the actual ignition you put your key in? It works properly and clicks solid but I m just trying to see what I can check. Theres one last plug I havent cleaned and I'm gonna check it out but I dont think it should be my reasoning.

 

[timebombprod]

Also, what could fry a battery multiple times, I've taken my batteries to oriellys a few times and sometimes It wont accept a Charge. I have had MULTIPLE batteries of the same brand and model, and its surely applicable for the bike, but I'm starting to think they're getting messed up and its causing this

 

[Redman]

. . . . . ., how do I test stator, . . . . . . .

Disconnect from R/R.
Engine at 4500 rpm, measure AC Volts (not DC) across pair of stator leads, three pair. Should be about 70VAC each.

 

[timebombprod]

Disconnect from R/R.
Engine at 4500 rpm, measure AC Volts (not DC) across pair of stator leads, three pair. Should be about 70VAC each.

So stator completely disconnected from anything?

 

[Redman]

So stator completely disconnected from anything?

Yes.

THree leads hanging out in space.
Measure AC volts between any two, and other pair, then other pair. Three readings.

 

[timebombprod]

Yes.

THree leads hanging out in space.
Measure AC volts between any two, and other pair, then other pair. Three readings.

Olay forsure will be doing as soon as bike is back up

 

[timebombprod]

Checked spark plugs, fuel fouled, so I will be going back to stock plugs.... guess I'll be looking for vacuum leaks again. Hopefully if runs well when the stock pilots are back in place

 

[alke46]

On mine, the stator passed that test called the leg to leg test. But you also need to test each leg to ground. That's where mine failed miserably.

The leg to ground test should be a very low # such as 0, but mine tested 31 volts then 50 volts and at that point I did not bother to test the 3rd leg

It was already showing me it was bad and needed to be replaced.

My new stator arrived today.

 

[timebombprod]

This stator is very new, aswell as the regulator. I'll see if. i can get the stator swapped if its failing but it shouldn't be already.

 

[timebombprod]

I found some evidence that might be incriminating. Was doing resistance testing and everything was passing mainly. Battery is disconnected through all of this.

I put one probe on the negative connection that goes to battery, and the other probe on the negative coil connection and I get a reading of 8.42k ohms.

If I check the positive connection for the battery and positive coil wire my resistance is 0

 

[timebombprod]

Guess I should ask this, because of m regulator being new, aswell as mystator, and both being good brands, can the stator rotor cause any of this mishap?

It's one thing I never thought of.

I will still be testing my stator out asap but it's just a thought.

 

[Redman]

........

I put one probe on the negative connection that goes to battery, and the other probe on the negative coil connection and I get a reading of 8.42k ohms.

. . . . . .

Good troubleshooting thinking.... BUT, the coil doesn't have a "negative connection". THe coil has a positive connection and a connection to the points/ignitor, so your high ohm reading does not indicate a problem.

.

 

[Redman]

Guess I should ask this, because of m regulator being new, aswell as mystator, and both being good brands, can the stator rotor cause any of this mishap?. . . . . . .

Can ANYthing of the charging system cause engine running problem: Not really (was going to mention something of this earlier...)
Think of it this way: You dont really need a stator-R/R-ChargingSystem for the engine to run. You can disconnect the charging system and engine will start and run, . . . . and run . . . . until battery voltage is too low. Well, as battery voltage goes low the ignition get a bit weak, but basically the entire bike/engine will run as long as battery still has good charge.

Or you mean you light flickering problem.....
I havent got a good picture of what manner your lights are flickering. OR if this happens all the time, or only at high rpms, or what. Erratic or pulsating.
Might be good to measure battery voltage (or at main fuse) while this is happening to see if voltage is fluctuating.

 

[Burque73]

Ian, have you ever ran the engine without the battery being connected? As in start it and disconnect the battery to test something? Please DON'T DO THAT! Ask me how I know...



Ok, since you asked, we used to think that was a good way to see if an alternator was bad on a car, maybe it is maybe not. Just ignorant mechanics. Anyway, I did that a few years ago with my 850 to see if the stator put out enough juice to keep things moving. It didn't take but a second for a power surge shoot through the system. The headlight got really bright and blew out, and I shut it down.

End result, reg/rec bad, battery fried from being over charged, stator badly wounded but not dead yet. Changed to SH775, replaced headlight bulb and eventually new stator.

 

[timebombprod]

Okay so the lights only flicker when it's at idle speed and tries to lower, when the pop happens its only at idle speed or a bit above, when it pops the bikes rpm drops about 100 rpm but goes back up right after.


I know the charging system shouldn't be doing thisnhutnseeing that I keep having to mess with the system and this problem keeps occurring with the inconsistent popping i dont know where to really look. The whokenignition system is new and working properly.

I'm gonna be messing with the carbs a bit seeing that the bigger size pilots were a bust, once i have those in and at appropriate amount it turns I'll be testing things.


I know not to hook the bike up to anything else! No worries on that one I did it once very long ago and that's why the stator and refukatornever got replaced.

 

[timebombprod]

Just changed spark plugs knowing they were fuel fouled to some cleaner one, 4 was wet but I made sure it sparked and sure enough it does. Have the carbs off about to drain them, make sure everything looks clean and passes through correctly and tr hen put stock pilots on and place back on. Make sure it idles and responds how it did last week and then onto messing with stator.

 

[timebombprod]

Was checking tightness of intake boot bolts and the bolts for where you put your sync tool were definently loose, I dont know about hand tighten but they definently needed to be done. Hopefully that's my hanging idle problem. I think it makes some sense, it wouldn't always do it(washer being in right spot stopping it) and when checking for leaks I couldn't get any real indication(washer blocking passage). Gonna get the stock pilots in and run it.