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almarconi
Guest
I hope thats not the engine you just installed
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I hope thats not the engine you just installed
You're scaring the man!
It's not going to strand you anywhere, gas mileage might not be that great and it could drink a little oil too, but you have 3 good jugs there so that should be OK. You'll notice it the most at idle but at highway speeds the
"virtual" compression increases because gases are moving a lot faster and even a leaky valve doesn't contain the pressure. The valve would need to be missing to truly affect the engine so badly you could not drive it.
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Guest
Guest
NopeI hope thats not the engine you just installed
Sorry, you're right.
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GSJim69
Guest
My gas milage has been pretty good actually. It's been around 35 city and about 45 riding around at 55. So, I knew it wasn't performing too bad.
Because of the performance, I expected that the compression would have improved over what it was. I was surprised.
I will ride it until I park it for the winter. Then I will pull the head and see what I find.
I'll be asking for suggestions at that time.
Because of the performance, I expected that the compression would have improved over what it was. I was surprised.
I will ride it until I park it for the winter. Then I will pull the head and see what I find.
I'll be asking for suggestions at that time.
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Ponderosa
Guest
Blow down..
Blow down..
Do a blowdown test (differential) on her. Put #1 on TDC and hook up a air hose in your spark plug hole. Put a set amount of pressure to her, you should be able to hear the air leaking by the culprit valve. Not too much pressure now... You can also hook up a pressure gauge to Crankcase vent and see how much blowbye you have...
Blow down..
Do a blowdown test (differential) on her. Put #1 on TDC and hook up a air hose in your spark plug hole. Put a set amount of pressure to her, you should be able to hear the air leaking by the culprit valve. Not too much pressure now... You can also hook up a pressure gauge to Crankcase vent and see how much blowbye you have...
S
supersonictoys
Guest
have you rechecked the valve clearance on that hole since the 800 miles? I have had motors come in with a valve out of adjustment for so long that carbon built up on a valve and seat and when you shim it to spec you are actually shimming it to the carbon. now that the valve is closing further, the carbon hits the head and shatters and goes away, leaving the valve open and the clearance gone. also try re torquing the head. don't remember what hole you said it was but I have seen head gaskets allow compression into the timing chain galley and retorquing brought the compression up 40psi or from a dead miss at idle to a decent running motor. worth a shot
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GSJim69
Guest
Hmm! I might give that a try. Got nothing to loose.have you rechecked the valve clearance on that hole since the 800 miles? I have had motors come in with a valve out of adjustment for so long that carbon built up on a valve and seat and when you shim it to spec you are actually shimming it to the carbon. now that the valve is closing further, the carbon hits the head and shatters and goes away, leaving the valve open and the clearance gone. also try re torquing the head. don't remember what hole you said it was but I have seen head gaskets allow compression into the timing chain galley and retorquing brought the compression up 40psi or from a dead miss at idle to a decent running motor. worth a shot
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Don-lo
Guest
I agree with supersonic: recheck those shims and retorque the head. The carbon may have been chipped away a little, but I doubt it is mostly gone. Some people have used water injection to clean up the combustion chamber a little, but I would rather pull the head myself.
Another small possibility is a slightly twisted crank, since that cylinder is all by itself and it is the one most likely to have hydraulic gas lockup. If you try and do a leakdown on #1 (setting #4 on TDC) and it blows the piston down, the crank is twisted.
Another small possibility is a slightly twisted crank, since that cylinder is all by itself and it is the one most likely to have hydraulic gas lockup. If you try and do a leakdown on #1 (setting #4 on TDC) and it blows the piston down, the crank is twisted.
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GSJim69
Guest
I thought that I would give the rest of the story, now that it is back together and running great.
The problem ended up being a bent #1 intake valve. The guide for that valve was cracked also.
So, that valve and guide was replaced. I had a machine shop do a valve job on the rest of the valves while they were at it and machine the head.
Since the engine was tore down that far I decided to hone the cylinders and put in new rings. I had the machine shop hone the cylinders to make sure that it was done right.
There were many difficulties with broken bolts (2 of them) and lots of hours removing gasket material that was harder than the aluminum. I will leave those details out.
Anyway, it is back together and running great. It is still in the break-in stage, but I am real pleased.
Thanks for your help.
The problem ended up being a bent #1 intake valve. The guide for that valve was cracked also.
So, that valve and guide was replaced. I had a machine shop do a valve job on the rest of the valves while they were at it and machine the head.
Since the engine was tore down that far I decided to hone the cylinders and put in new rings. I had the machine shop hone the cylinders to make sure that it was done right.
There were many difficulties with broken bolts (2 of them) and lots of hours removing gasket material that was harder than the aluminum. I will leave those details out.
Anyway, it is back together and running great. It is still in the break-in stage, but I am real pleased.
Thanks for your help.
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