No Fuel?

[robertbarr]

I'll make sure to stop by Lowe's and get that rubbing compound. I'm definitely going to do the fuel test to see which one is puking gas, that way I know which one to specifically track down. I will give this all a try before ordering new valves or needles.

Those little pups are $32.35 a copy at PartsOutlaw, so you probably don't want to replace them needlessly.

I did mangle up a few valves when I first dis-assembled the carbs when I was trying to get those dang things out with vice grips. Is there a better way to do it without scratching up the surface of the brass, or is that just something that happens to all of them?

I'm not aware of any way to finesse those out of there.

I didn't try using any silicone or wd-40 spray to get them in or out, but they are definitely a PITA.

Pick up some silicone when you're at Lowe's. You want some lubricant; motor oil, if nothing else. Don't install them dry. They should yield and slide properly on installation -- a good quality feel. When you get them out again, examine the O-rings. If you've harmed them, PM me right away.

I also just bought a digital caliper, so no more guessing. As far as checking the fuel height in the bowls through the drain screws, what's the best way to go about that? Will the correct float height adjustment result in a correct fuel level in the bowls?

Clear tubing and hollow fittings, but I'll leave that to someone else who's more current & familiar with that. Yes, a correct float height will result in a correct fuel level.

I think you're on the right track now.

 

[rwnielsen]

If your carbs are flooding from hanging an IV bottle or whatever, your floats and or needles are not right, period. Stop spinning your wheels and get the floats to shut the fuel off at the proper level, whatever that takes. You are wasting your time and effort until that happens.

This!!! Otherwise you're just wasting time.

 

[Steve]

Those little pups are $32.35 a copy at PartsOutlaw, so you probably don't want to replace them needlessly.

I get mine at Parts-n-More for $10 each.

.

 

[jsandidge]

I get mine at Parts-n-More for $10 each.

.

Is that for OEM? I couldn't find them on their website.

 

[Anthony]

OEM for $10 a piece would be awesome! But hey, I'm willing to shell out $32 a piece for quality OEM and piece of mind.

 

[Anthony]

So it appears that carb number 3 and 4 are the culprits, and the gas is coming out of the passages that the main air correctors are installed in.

 

[Anthony]

I took the float bowls off the carbs, cleaned the valve seats and needles with running compound and then sprayed them clean with carb cleaner. I also cleaned the floats themselves and made sure they all floated in a bowl of water, which they did. I also cleaned the float pin and valve retaining part with rubbing compound and sprayed them clean with carb cleaner. So everything looked much better and assembled much easier this time after doing that. I tested all the springs in the needles and they seem to be great after cleaned properly. The valve seats also cleaned up really nice and slid in nicely. It appeared the needles were stuck and not bouncing back correctly, and two of the floats were not adjusted properly, so I adjusted them. Everything was cleaned properly, and re-assembled. I then blew in the fuel tube while the carbs were invered and I didn't hear any air leaks, and it was met with resistance as it should. They all sealed properly. And I turned it over and did the same thing, and I could hear air flowing through all of them, as it should be. I also tested the bouncing of the floats on the needles, and they were much more responsive. I will re-install the carbs and try running it once again!

 

[rwnielsen]

Good job man. Now you're almost there. Pain in the a$$ but it all pays off.

 

[eil]

So it sounds like the first carb cleaning you did wasn't thorough enough? Did you redo 1 and 2 while you were at it?

 

[Anthony]

Okay, so know I'm having an issue with idle. It idles at 4k, then goes down to 2.5k, and we try to get it to 1.2 to use the carbtune but it seems to be too low, and starts backfiring. The carbtune shows no vacuum unless it idles at least at 2.5k, but it's so little amount to do much with. What could be causing this? Should I adjust the idle mixture screws first? Then carb sync? I have no idea. It's perplexing.

 

[rwnielsen]

Sounds like a vacuum leak and/or you're way out of sync. Did you cap the petcock port? You could also spray a little carb cleaner around the intake side of the head and see if the idle changes at all. It shouldn't unless there's a leak

 

[Anthony]

I blocked the Vacuum port with a piece of line and a golf tee. I think it may be way out of sink, but I'm not sure how that's possible since it seemed fine when I was running pods. Does the airbox affect the sync? I also just tested the intake side of the carbs with carb cleaner and there was no change in rpm that I could tell. But since the idle is so out of wack right now it's hard to tell to be honest. No idea what's going on.

 

[Grimly]

Well done on sorting the sticky float valves. Now that's done, you're on the final straight.
If I understand you correctly, you've installed a standard air box in place of the pods - are you still on the same jetting setup the pods had?
If so, you'll have to rectify that back to standard.

 

[Anthony]

My main jets are at 124, which is the DynoJet Stage 1 kit. I installed this kit because I have 4-1 pipes into a supertrapp exhaust. But yes, I do have a stock airbox (K&N air filter installed). I believe my needles are on the 3rd groove as well. So I'm still not sure what is going on. I am going to also watch a video on the carbtune to make sure I'm doing it correctly.

 

[Anthony]

Maybe I need to look harder for a vacuum leak, or exhaust leak? Maybe adjust the pilot screws before I do a carb sync??