No Fuel?

[Steve]

... I will also try using a rubber hammer on the float bowls to try and "re-seat" them.

Might need a sharper 'rap' than the rubber will provide. :-k

A couple of light taps with a steel hammer might do better.

.

 

[Anthony]

Thanks Steve, I'll remember that. And also, could my air correctors be causing my bike to not start properly since I have a stock airbox (too much restriction)? I do have a 4-1 pipe, so I thought the whole DJ kit was applicable, and to just use the 124's instead of the 130's. Is this all correct?

 

[Dodik]

I think you are changing way too many variables at once,
if you get it to start again even at 4k rpms on choke it is fine, let it run a bit lie 2-3 minutes and start easing the choke off,
if/when rpms drop too low to sustain idle adjust air screw (the big on one the bottom) by screwing it in (clockwise)
it should raise the idle to where bike can run all by itself.
when you get the bike to sustain idle even a high one is when you start adjusting mixture screws on top.

may i ask why you are not using the gas tank? but an aux/IV

I usually use my tank with all lines connected but prop it with oil bottle or roll of paper towels for some room.

 

[Anthony]

I have read to use the IV method for better clearance, and that most didn't want to risk knocking over the tank if connected but sitting on a different surface. I felt kinda the same way, but if I can't get it running, I might need to do the gas tank to rule that out. I need to record how I'm doing it so someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong

 

[Anthony]

Okay so I just got done messing around with my bike some more. After plugging the vacuum line, it started right up, but it still flooded, and only ran for about 10 seconds, then a loud bang happened. This happened twice, except the second run lasted about a minute or two, which I did record and am uploading to YouTube now. Here are the spark plugs after it's first run of the day, and were perfectly clean before: http://imgur.com/a/vNDI1
Here is the video I recorded of everything I was doing and my setup (sorry for the vertical video :stupid:

So can anyone help me out now that I provided these things?

 

[Guest]

If all the fuel in your bottle is draining out then you have a float sticking, not floating or the float needle is not seating properly. Do all your floats float? Have you tried to start it with the rear of the airbox removed so you can see which carb is puking fuel?


Mark

 

[Anthony]

I haven't removed it to check which one is puking yet, I was trying to troubleshoot anything before I got to that first. So one or two might be puking fuel? Maybe the float valve seat is not seated all the way or the float is stuck?

 

[huntb]

It was running plenty long for you to get the screw adjusted. As soon as it starts just tighten it in and as soon as it can run without choke (after a minute or two) then you can adjust it down if it is idling too high. Were all four of your exhaust headers hot?

 

[Guest]

I haven't removed it to check which one is puking yet, I was trying to troubleshoot anything before I got to that first. So one or two might be puking fuel? Maybe the float valve seat is not seated all the way or the float is stuck?

Well, I asked if all of your floats actually float. They are hollow and can spring a leak. If that happens the float will not close the float valve and it will continue to pour gas. The other thing I think is very possible is that your float valves are worn and not closing properly. The only way to know why fuel is dribbling out of your airbox overflow is to pull the box and see which carbs are doing it, then look at the offender(s) and see why. Until you do that I think you are chasing your tail with everything else.


Mark

 

[Anthony]

Do I just test the floats in water to see if they actually float? And I'll have to do airbox removal so I can see which one is doing it. Hopefully it's not all four....

 

[robertbarr]

I'd want to pull those carbs apart without question. Remove and inspect the float seats and valves. If there's no obvious damage or wear, I'd also polish the interior of the float valves (rubbing compound and Q-tips, and patience), the exterior of the valves themselves and the float pin. Then: check and recheck your float heights exactly as shown in the manual, with the carb bodies tipped until the floats are just contacting the valves.

With the innards inspected, the carbs can then be tested for fuel-tightness without installing them onto the engine. It can be done on a set of porch steps, for example. Just attach a fuel supply to the fuel line and observe. IMO, the height of the fuel supply above the carbs can make a substantial difference, so hold the fuel supply at roughly the same height above the carbs as the fuel tank would be. Leaks? Well, then you'll know which carb(s) is/are still leaking. At that point, it would be time to purchase new seat/valve sets for those that aren't holding fuel. They're expensive, so don't replace them unless you know they're bad. Get OEM. Nothing else.

As stated earlier, put each float in a container of fuel and make sure they still float, but I've never personally seen a float from any Suzuki that didn't.

Only when you KNOW they're fuel-tight, remove the fuel source, keep the carbs horizontal and open the drain screw to drain each carb into a handy container. You want an estimate of the amount of fuel in each. THEN, FINALLY install them onto the bike and proceed. Anything else is just wear and tear on your starter and patience.

 

[Anthony]

Thanks for the response Robert, I was hoping you would stop by! I will definitely do everything you suggested. When you say rubbing compound, do you mean running alcohol or something else? A brand? Just want to make sure I get the right thing. And I know those items aren't cheap, but if one of them is bad, I might as well do all of them to be safe and be worry free. I've already dumped a lot of money into this, so any more is not going to hurt my feelings haha and when you say tilt it so it barely touches the needle, what does that mean exactly? I might just be over thinking it. Do you have a picture or good explanation? And will a metric ruler work okay for measuring the float height? Thanks!

 

[robertbarr]

No, I meant rubbing compound. Off-the-shelf stuff that you'd use to clear up light scratches in paint. You're going to smooth up the insides of the inlet valves and the outsides of the valves themselves, so that they slide along each other nicely. If anyone else has a better tool than a Q-tip for getting in there, chime in. Not sure this will help, but it's cheaper than new valve sets. Obviously, clean them thoroughly after you polish them.

Dump as much money as you like, but I'd suggest KNOWING which valve sets leak first, so bench test (or porch test) the carbs for fuel leaks.

I won't type out the float adjustment procedure, since you'll find the whole process in your manual, complete with pictures. A metric ruler might be OK if you're lucky, but you're not having much luck these days, so eliminate the guesswork and shell out the $11 for a digital caliper. Read the procedure until you're sure you have it down. Perhaps someone has a link for these specific carbs, but your manual should cover it. It's crucial to get this right.

 

[Anthony]

I'll make sure to stop by Lowe's and get that rubbing compound. I'm definitely going to do the fuel test to see which one is puking gas, that way I know which one to specifically track down. I will give this all a try before ordering new valves or needles. I did mangle up a few valves when I first dis-assembled the carbs when I was trying to get those dang things out with vice grips. Is there a better way to do it without scratching up the surface of the brass, or is that just something that happens to all of them? I didn't try using any silicone or wd-40 spray to get them in or out, but they are definitely a PITA. I also just bought a digital caliper, so no more guessing. As far as checking the fuel height in the bowls through the drain screws, what's the best way to go about that? Will the correct float height adjustment result in a correct fuel level in the bowls?

 

[wymple]

If your carbs are flooding from hanging an IV bottle or whatever, your floats and or needles are not right, period. Stop spinning your wheels and get the floats to shut the fuel off at the proper level, whatever that takes. You are wasting your time and effort until that happens.

 

[Dodik]

Like others said stop wasting time and take them apart to check what is wrong. since you are already stage 1 the bike should start without airbox so when you put it all back together as a quick check just put the carbs on and start, if all works then reassemble with the airbox, might save you some time. And for rubbing compound since you need so little you can use any gritty toothpaste it will do the same thing without having to spend more money.

 

[Anthony]

I'm not going to do any more testing until I go through my carbs. I will take pictures of it, and report back with what I did or if I'm stuck on something I'll ask about it. I usually have my dad's help with harder stuff, but he's out of town so it's all up to me. I'm willing to test my knowledge though! Thanks for the pointers so far. About bending the tab on the float... What's the best way to adjust that? A flathead screwdriver and a little pressure? Small pliers and light bending?

 

[eil]

Small flathead screwdriver and just a little pressure. It will take a few tries to get it exactly correct.

 

[Anthony]

And pressing down on the tab while the carbs are inverted will result in the floats lowering when correctly oriented, correct? I'm guessing while inverted it looks like it is raised, but in theory it is actually lowering it.

 

[rwnielsen]

With your carbs inverted and the bowls off you should be able to blow lightly into the fuel inlet and feel a stoppage. If you raise any of the floats air will flow. You can hear and feel it. If you hear or feel flow with the floats resting on the needle valve.... That area needs attention