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No special tool required to remove valve shims!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Matchless
  • Start date Start date
M

Matchless

Guest
Here is some information on how to make up your own special tool for about 10 cents, to much quicker and easier remove and replace the valve shims on your GS than the special tool. I suggest you use it in conjunction with BassCliff's excellent valve adjustment guide on his website and also use Steve's valve shim calculator. You will have to email Steve to obtain a copy.
Steve if you are watching, I used your calculator for the first time today and it is a very handy tool, it works well on Openoffice and Excel.
Download the guide from: http://www.mediafire.com/?3ptmrhwxzvm
 
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I don't understand why no one ever thanks you for these. They're great write ups. Thank you again. You save me alot of money from not having to buy these specialty tools
 
Yeah i always look at these, and would thank you for the possibly lot of dollars you save me too, but for some reason my computer doesnt like that webhost and wont let me download them...weird...but thanks anyway!! LOL
 
Well, that was sure... creative. :shock:

It works, it's cheap, and won't hurt anything, but I sure don't see where it's faster or easier than using the correct tool.

On this end of the planet, the tool is only about $20 delivered to my door in about two days. http://z1enterprises.com

But maybe the right tool costs a lot more in your part of the world, or isn't easily available. Hats off -- propping the valves open with folded zip ties is pure demented genius!
 
Thanks for the thanks!
Cafe, have you tried copying the link to your browser as mediafire is supposed to be a no hassle service. I use windows and Kubuntu linux with Firefox.
 
I have the tool and I will gladly loan it to GSR members who need it. I just ask they send me a check to hold as a deposit.

~Adam
 
How do you open the file? I tried everything including copying the link to my browser, and nothing.

Greg o
 
Personally, I have the tool. Its garbage. I find the method i was taught by another GSR much more effective, but a bit on the dangerous side :) (Only in the sense that you *could* screw up your timing if you arent paying attention) The tool simply got more in the way than anything else. And YES i was using it properly. Also, on the inside cylinders, its VERY frustrating, as it keeps sliping off the tappet. I think i did more scuffing to my cam caps than anything. Thats not to say others havent found success. And that the particular tool that I bought isnt garbage itself. It very well may be.
 
Greg O. said:
How do you open the file? I tried everything including copying the link to my browser, and nothing.

Greg o
Click to expand...

Its a small PDF file of about 700k with pictures. It should open with any PDF reader.
If you have problems downloading maybe you could ask BassCliff or someone else to put it on their websites and try to download from there. I can promise you that the method really works, as the pictures were taken when I was doing a full valve shim job a few weeks back without any skinned knuckles or anything!
 
Again and again, the best tool for this is a rear spring adjuster tool. It's a perfect fit, and you're bound to have one from an old bike toolkit.
 
I got the file to open. Thanks.

Like Red Green always says, "Any tool can be the right tool."

Great idea. I need to check my valves this winter, and will give this method a try if I have to remove any shims.

Greg O
 
I'm definately still learning.. Why on earth are you people doing this? am I missing something again? why are you removing valve shims?? or is this only for some engines?
 
BentRod said:
I'm definately still learning.. Why on earth are you people doing this? am I missing something again? why are you removing valve shims?? or is this only for some engines?
Click to expand...

two valve engines, you need to swap shims to adjust valve clearances.
 
I have updated the hint with a footnote, thanks to Steve who pointed out the possibility of carbon particles lodging under the valve seat and thus maybe affecting a reading. Please update any copies you may have.
 
The "tool" worked great. I just checked my valves and need to replace some shims. I was concerned about the valve and piston clearance, so I was very careful when turning the engine. Once the valve is held open by the tool, I rotate the engine backwards to avoid the possibility of the piston hitting the valve. I am not sure just how close the piston comes to the valve in these engines, but I believe they are interferance valves.

Greg O.
 
I must admit that I was sceptical of this idea. I have used the "correct" tool many times with complete success. However, the zip tie worked very well. I did however have to do one valve twice due to differing readings. Also the shim can be hard to separate from the bucket as there is nothing holding the bucket still. So while I do prefer the actual tool for doing a valve job, I would not hesitate to use it again in a pinch.
 
Matchless said:
I have updated the hint with a footnote, thanks to Steve who pointed out the possibility of carbon particles lodging under the valve seat and thus maybe affecting a reading. Please update any copies you may have.
Click to expand...
I'd like feedback as far as the plastic zip tie folded over and likelyhood of being able to dislodge carbon particles to hang up a valve to cause incorrect measurements? Try using a zip tie on an old valve and see if you can scrape anything off.
Also, because the valves are not held fully opened by the plastic zip tie I don't think they will hit the piston when turning the engine slowly by hand (if it is an interferance type engine??).
And last, yes the bucket will turn freely allowing you to spin it around for the opening facing inward thus allowing to get a small screwdriver to pop off and pull the shim out with tweezers. I did not have any problems with the bucket moving while doing this as the small flat head held it in place as I pulled it out with the tweezer.
Definitely take all your initial measurements before inserting any zip ties in the cylinders and moving shims around! But I assume you would have to do that anyway no matter what tool you use to start figuring out what shims may be needed. If by some chance carbon gets dislodged then your measurements will be on the high side or exceed .08mm. If you want to test then rotate crank, insert the zip tie, rotate crank, then pull shim out and put same one back in, rotate crank, pull tie out , rotate crank and see if any clearances changed.
 
If you shine a light down the sparkplug hole with the piston at the top, you may get an indication as to what the inside of your engine looks like. Scraping a bit off with a screwdriver will also indicate if it would have been possible to dislodge some easily with a the cable tie. If its on the top of the piston its most likely the same next to the valves.
If you want to be sure, just recheck the valve clearance again after running the motor and cooling off.
I have been toying with the idea of blowing out the carbon using the water method, and may be trying it soon as my motor is quite carboned up.
 
I may have to try this on my XS, since I don't have a tool that'll fit that engine. Most XS people actually remove the cams...
 
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