8V v.s. 16V Know which one you are reading about
8V v.s. 16V Know which one you are reading about
Nesseim , you beat me to it; yes there is plenty of info but it might be difficult to unfurl. Agree !
I'm doing 16V oil cooler with a top end oiler on the GS1100ED. 1150 cooler, new lines and fitings, 1150 cover. Ward top end oiler with a modified fitting as shown in the thread below.
The first thing to do when reading about oil coolers is to make sure if the discussion is on 8 v or 16 v motors. You will get less conflicting advice that way. The oil plumbing is similar but not the same and the rear adapter is very different.
If you have an 8 valve motor read this link
Cooler Add-on for 8 Valve engines using Oil Filter Cover
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=122837
This link if for 16V top end oilers but it explains how the oil flow works for the 16V and I believe touches of the 8 v differences.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=120828
In a nut shell:
For the 16V motors:
* Oil cooler needs to be routed like the 1150 from the banjo bolts near the front filter cover. Oil flow out the right side and returns to the left side.
* Filter cover needs to be swapped out to a (84-86) GS1150E or modified to block off the right side port. But the new cover for $30 it is still available.
* Also you need to over fill your crankcase with MORE oil to allow for the volume in the cooler. If the lines are mounted on the bottom of the cooler, then all the oil will flow back out of the filter when engine is not running and your site glass on the side should read close/over the top depending on how big your cooler is. If the cooler is mounted upside down, the filler on the top then the cooler oil doesn't flow out when the engine is off and so your site glass is not upset as much (only the oil in the lines). The 120 degree bend fittings for an upside down install are pricey..
* That is all that is required for the cooler; Might suggest adding 750 or Ward gears (on the oil pump behind the clutch; two gears) to improve the flow to the cooler.
* to add an 16V top end oiler as well. Read the link above
For 8 V:
* need to construct a oil passage diversion from the center of the rear block to route most if not all oil to the cooler in the front.
* Need to reroute the oil return back from the cooler to the back cover.
The above is accomplished with a custom made machined block (like made by a member here from Australia for $100??) or out of off the shelf fittings like Nisseim did it. Not this block is only required for the 8V not the 16V motors.
Front filter cover doesn't have to change as far as I know for 8V motors.
I dont know anything about top end oilers for 8V motors(would guess it works the same way if you can get it plumbed right). or the oil pump gear mods for 8V(question posed to Rapid Ray and he did not know as he works on 16V 1100 and 1150 engines mostly).
With this summary you should be able to go back and know what you are reading and sort out the wheat from the chaff.
read Nessism's link he has actually done a 8V motor filter.
Nessism feel free to add or correct anything I overlooked. You an I were researching the same nearly the same time.
Posplayr