I'm a little late to this post, but my 2 (or 3, 4, 5) cents:
* I vote no, oil cooler is not necessary. Stockers (like more recent water-cooled hot rods) would have come with if so, I say. An engine that runs too cool is almost as bad as an engine that runs too hot.
* I vote yes, they look cool (cool bike Sparky!), but GS's can look pretty darn cool w/o too (I think so at least)
* I second that, things can heat up real quick stuck in traffic when you're air cooled. I treat those situations like I'm holding my breath...if I'm sitting longer than 2 or 3 minutes, I shut the motor off.
* I like the idea of an oil temp gauge though. Gonna think about that one. I'm definitely a fan of actually "seeing" what's going on vs. guessing.
* Best engine temps for power and efficiency are actually in the 220-230degF range (source: various hotrod books read over the years by Vizard (V8s), Yunick (Chevy), Raven (vw), Dempsey (porsche), etc). Problem used to be conventional oil film strength falls apart above about 210F. No longer a problem with new and much better Synthetic / Synth blend oils (fine to over 300F before any breakdown worries). Good synthetic or blend oil = great insurance.
* Leaner = hotter, Richer = cooler. Newer bikes run very lean for emissions which means much stricter control of engine temp is necessary to prevent meltdown; this is one reason why there are so few air-cooled bikes (and cars such as Porsche 911) left. Not as big a worry for our older, jetted for power (ie richer, apx 12::1 air to fuel) bikes.
* And last "cent":
An oil cooler is not going to do it's job if you are stuck in traffic. An oil cooler needs forced airflow to work......
I disagree. An oil cooler, like the fins on our air-cooled bikes, and like the "radiator" on your car, works like (and is): a radiator. This means that it sheds excess heat via radiating that heat away via the fins. So the cooler (like your finned air-cooled bike's cylinders and head) WILL still "work" if stuck in traffic. Just not as well. Depending on oil heat vs cooler size/capacity. Hence why cars have radiator fans to help out and "pull" cool air over the radiator fins, even at idle/while stopped. There is a distinction is all I'm saying....adding an oil cooler adds "fins" and will certainly add radiant cooling capacity regardless of speed.
That said, I still think most of us don't need em, they're cluttery looking, and add potential for leaks. Money and time can be better spent (e.g. Sparky - get a header (if you already have, that much better/easier), some K&N pods on there, rejet your carbs, and feel the ridiculous difference it makes. You can thank me later).
Fun stuff. Cheers to all
I'm surprised that none of you remembered that the HOT OIL is what destroys the stator's insulation and keeps RICK in business. I just got a nice big Ford(ugh)tranny cooler for my 1100e. I agree that the engines will live through a great deal of heat but not our poor little alternators. When I got my bike it made a noise and upon opening the alt cover I found a new aftermarket stator w loose bolts-the guy had troubles and just wanted to unload what he thought was a troublesome machine. His loss my GEM! Oil doesn't work well until 100F or so but whoever thinks 210 is fine might be thinking of deep frying. Guzzi John:-k
)
